Cam problem with new engine

HELP!

I bought my vintage about 7 months ago, and Love it..BTW. However around 4K miles my engine started knocking really loudly. This engine had hydrolic lifters, which even after adjustment did not solve the knocking. I took it to a couple different local mechanics to have them give me their assessments. It basically came down to the cam coming loose by a small degree, resulting in that knocking. (They pulled the fuel pump and distributor to make this assessment). Kirk ended up sending me a new block and the engine worked great....until,

I am about the same 4K miles on the new engine and it is now knocking. This engine is not hydrolic, but standard lifters. I have gone through and gapped the valves. I have spoken with several different mechanics around the country on the phone, and explained the issue. It seems that to have this cam issue on one engine is rare, but to have on two is downright odd.

Any thoughts?

Do you REALLY know it was a cam problem with the first engine? Are you just ASSUMING that you have the same type of problem as before? if oil pressure and cylinder compression are good a knocking sound might also be a loose flywheel, etc.

To check for a loose flywheel try moving the flywheel back and forth along its longitudinal axis - if it will move much more than .005" to .007" the flywheel's gland nut may be coming loose.

Some cam drive gears are riveted to the cam - this has caused probelms in recent years when the gear loosend up, then sheared the rivets. If you remove the oil pump you can see if the cam is riveted or bolted to the drive gear, and if bolted check to see if the bolts are loose.

You should probably take the car to a COMPETENT shop - trailer it if you have to - and let them check it out and solve the problem.

Since I am not a mechanic, I decided to take it to several shops so I could make sure that noone was trying to hose me. Three reputable shops here came up with the same diagnosis regarding the loose cam.

I have not done the same process on this engine. However, I do know every noise my car makes, and this one is EXACTLY like the one before. I did take it to the shop that did the repairs last time, and the sound was coming directly from the same area.

I went to www.peebles34.freeserve.co.uk and read through the information posted on the site. It sure seems to me that there are definately some similarities with my problem and a cam problem.

Don't you think it is odd that two engines would have the same issue at the roughly same mileage?

not if they have the same flaw.
ed

Matt,
Is there a possibility that you are over revving the engine? The "as delivered" Mexican VW crate motors have their limitations, some individual units probably more than others. IMHO, the 5500 RPM redline on your tach is a joke. I wouldn't ever take mine that high! Keeping the RPM's down to a more conservative 4500 would be best if you want to keep her running. Mine is still fine approaching 7700 miles and I hope to get a bunch more out of it by not pushing it too hard.
John H.

John makes an excellent point. If your engine is a stocker and you've been over-revving it that would certainly explain why you're having problems.

My opinion is that you are not driving it hard enough. 8) Hey, dang it's a new motor.

I've heard this before on the mexi-crates. Not bad motors, but if they are going to go bad, they do it early. Lightning does strike twice in the same place. If you drove them a little harder they would go bad sooner and there would never be a question. Document it and Kirk will make it good.

If its a new crate engine anything is possible...

I drive engles hard from day one, break in to me is wide open thrttle or 7K on the dyno after the cam breaks in!

jake, what are these "engles" you speak of?, secret weapon?
Just kiddin, I feel the same way. Thats why tolerences are
measured/set, so it will operate normally within your engines
"operating range". This turns up flaws quickly in production
work.-bruce

jake, what are these "engles" you speak of?, secret weapon?
Just kiddin, I feel the same way. Thats why tolerences are
measured/set, so it will operate normally within your engines
"operating range". This turns up flaws quickly in production
work.-bruce

That should have ben "Engines" Sorry! I won't use Engles!

Matt,

I have the same cam problem, car just turned 1000 miles . I will be calling Kirk on Monday. Man just when I had some time to take her on the road. Matt did Kirk take care of all the labor costs? Any info would help. The car really can't be driven....


Todd

I sheared a cam gear on a mexi-crate hydra 1776 @ 4,000 miles two years ago. No abuse, just cruising at 3300 RPM and "chunk.. followed by valves bouncing".Kirk has those engines warrantied through the supplier. I went for a credit instead and had a local build another 1776 from a new AS-41 case, using good parts. Of course it cost more than the credited amount for the mexicrate, but as I learned once and again, you gets what you pays for!

If I ever get through all the medical bills for the transplant and subsequent surgeries I will order a 2007cc from Jake. Cost more, but worth it. In the interim, my 1776 humms along as a great 'driver' engine with zero defects after 15,000 miles, and still will give a nice push with the 40 IDFs, Mahle & SCAT balanced Internals, 40x37s worked and a 120, good springs rocker assembly, CSP exhaust, External cooler system, 1.5 qt Sump, running Vavoline pure synthetic with minimal leakage. Yesterday was 103' in OKC and I powered all day on a road trip back from a lake party, sometimes edging 90-95, but most at 65-75... and never ran the temp past the half green.... Moral? Good Parts, Good Build, saves money in the long term.

Jim
dubutub

Jim ,

What was the cost of the local rebuild? I think I may go this route
as well . I would like to get an idea of the costs. How much did Kirk
give you a credit for?

Todd