What a PITA. Nothing fit. Bracket was too narrow to fit over trans. After much bending and rebending, got it on. Next, spring was wider than bracket so more bending. Then plastic axle cups hit the shocks. Holes in the washers were all wrong diameters. Shoulda been a :30 min install, nope.
End result?
Works great!
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65tuxedo---I know you have a Vintage as do I. I used the C.B. Performance camber compensator and it fit beautifully. Is your CC a C.B. Performance one?
I believe thst Vintage removes the stock sway bar from the front for some reason but if you will get an Empi front sway bar you will complete what a VS needs; both a Camber compensator and a front sway bar. Your car will ride like like it was on rails!
Good luck---you are on the road to a great drving/riding car.
What Jack said X2....
Did it raise your car up? I was given a new empi version. I am also wondering which one you have. I was also given a new sway bar but I will have to find a way to cut the bumper brackets so it will fit.
It did not raise my CMC and I used an empi bar.... That said, watch out for the bumper mounts and possibly body reinforcement pannels.... There are several ways to trim away what gets in the way.... Just measure 3 times and cut once.... 
Im thinken on a sway bar behind the beam for mine if I stay with a beam, but I may go with "A" arms. there are somant ways to skin cats, just be carfull not to get scratched,bit or arested.
I was at the cross roads of what to do with the rearr after installing EMPI's 9600 3/4" sway bar on the front of my 2000 Vintage. My car had no anti-sawy bar up front initially.
I studied the ups and downs of the camber compensator versus a rear sway bar with my swing axle transaxle and ultimatelty went the EMPI rear sway bar route. I've had a number of older (1970 era) 911s that benefitted tremedously from installing a rear anti-sway bar. I understand that these are IRS transaxle cars and that there are differences when dealing with a swing axle transaxle.
However, I am not intending on tracking or pushing my Speedster in turns to the point where the outside wheel would tuck. Knowing that a camber compensator is not really designed to limit the roll of the car, I opted for the anti-roll bar for the purpose of giving me a flatter handling car when engaging turns under moderate driving conditions.
That said, the seat-of-the-pants difference felt after installing the rear anti-sway bar was as expected. It settled the rear end down noticably, and made it less anxious even just driving straight ahead at speeds of from about 30 mpg plus. Also, the car is now very predictable in turns, making a dead pedal a necessaity.
I was also concerned that the camber compensator (depending on the design and whether it was a flater leaf that looped the axles) could adversly impact ride hight. If anything, the EMPI camber compesator seemed to eliminate this issue.
I am sure that there are benefits to each approach, and those running both a camber compensator and a rear anti-sway bar, which seems to me to be the real belt-and-suspenders approach to addressing all issues with the swing axle transaxle.
I haven't heard of putting a sway bar behind the beam but my knowledge base here is one of the shallowest here
The EMPI front sway bar was 100% plug and play with no cutting or fabrication of any kind. Just follow the directions. The part numbers are all for the same item and are either 9594, 9595, 9596 or 9600. I have no idea why they use 4 s/ns for the same item--must be a Chinese thing is all I can figure. To install the clamps around the urethane bushings, use a really large Channellock pliers to squeeze the clamp together so the bolt sticks out and you can get a socket on it. This way it's a very easy job.
The 3/4" sway bar comes with urethane bushings and you need to ask about the clamps that hold the sway bar. Don't get the EMPI p/n 9692 clamps as these are a giant PITA! Get the ones with a bolt running through that takes lock nuts.
Hope this helps.
Jack,
i bought the cc from SoCal. Didn'have a brand name anywhere. Painted gold.it is the 9615 version. What bar are you using on the front? If you get near the west end of Grand Lake you need to stop in!
the cc did not raise the car.
Well my front sway bar is an EMPI 9600 that is the natural color of steel---not painted or anything. There is no name stamped on it---just the package it came in. It along with the rear camber compensator made my car a different animal as far as handling and ride.
Get one for your VS---you will love what it does for your car.
Frankly I believe that a pan based Speedster replica without the Camber combensator is just plain dangerous to drive. There is a you tube video that mdade a believer of me. Put in something like "VW Bugs rolling" or VW Bud race with cars rollong to see the effect of a tight turn at some speed. The video shows a string of Bugs going maybe 50-60 into a tight left turn on a race track. First you clearly see the left wheel folding under the car then the car taking a roll. A Camber compensator would have kept that wheel straight and not allow it to fold under anc cause a roll.
The other related thing is the common belief that a rear engine car wants to swap the front end for the rear end. This means to spin in a tight turn going fast. The Camber compensator and sway bar helps avoid this syndrome. The thing should really be named an "anti-sway bar" because that's what it's doing for a car. Sway gone too far causes a crash.
That's my take on this issue.
Just FYI.. A front 'sway' bar and a rear 'sway' bar are in acutality correctly named "anti-sway bars' and not "sway" bars. Over the years, people got lazy and dropped the word "anti"
I haven't heard of putting a sway bar behind the beam but my knowledge base here is one of the shallowest here
The EMPI front sway bar was 100% plug and play with no cutting or fabrication of any kind. Just follow the directions. The part numbers are all for the same item and are either 9594, 9595, 9596 or 9600. I have no idea why they use 4 s/ns for the same item--must be a Chinese thing is all I can figure. To install the clamps around the urethane bushings, use a really large Channellock pliers to squeeze the clamp together so the bolt sticks out and you can get a socket on it. This way it's a very easy job.
The 3/4" sway bar comes with urethane bushings and you need to ask about the clamps that hold the sway bar. Don't get the EMPI p/n 9692 clamps as these are a giant PITA! Get the ones with a bolt running through that takes lock nuts.
Hope this helps.
Jack, using the part numbers you provided, it appears all four are different.
Two types:
Link Pin and Ball Joint
Both offered in standard ride height and lowered. Thus giving four options total.
Is it safe to say that of these 4 available, I should go with the 9594 which is the front anti sway bar for my lowered VS on a 73 pan?
9594 Lowered Link Pin:
http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-LOW...arlier/dp/B00BGDWY1S
9595 Lowered Ball Joint
http://www.amazon.com/LOWERED-...-LATER/dp/B00BGDWV3E
9596 Reg Link Pin Style
http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-959...ARLIER/dp/B00BGDWFEY
9600 Reg Ball Joint Style
http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-FRO...-LATER/dp/B00BGDWHKG
Christian -
If it's built on a 73 chassis then you should have ball joints. I think VW switched to them in 1966 or so. Here's a side by side comparison so you can confirm:
