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I swapped out a working North Hollywood modified tach with a known good Brazilian VDO tach that more closely matched the other gauges in the car.

When I put the Brazilian tach in it didn't work, but as I wiggled the connections, trying to figure out what was wrong, I noticed that it would work if my finger was touching the middle "1" terminal and the tach housing at the the same time.

I made sure there were no grounding issues and there weren't.  The resistance that my finger created by simply touching the case and the terminal at the same time made it clear that I needed a resistor to solve the issue.

Side note.  If I touched the case with one hand and the terminal with the other, the tach worked, but I also got zapped!

So, I went to our local Radio Shack, which is selling everything off prior to the end of the month when they close for good, and bought several different values of resistors.

I found that connecting a 100K ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the terminal and the case resolved the issue.  Putting it inline between the wire and the terminal didn't work.

What the heck?

 

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It was just total luck.  If my finger didn't happen to also touch the case while I was wiggling the terminal connection I would have never discovered the fix.

I am however, very proud of winning the Golden Shield award at Marina High School for excellence in Industrial Arts during my sophomore year in 1965.  That accomplishment solidified my nerd status for the rest of my high school days, but for some reason, the babes just couldn't appreciate it!  

Troy, that's interesting juju.

I have a neighbor with a 5-year old Vintage.  His tach worked fine on the mechanical points distributor.  But when he switched to Pertronix (or Compufire, I don't remember which) electronic "points" his tach stopped working  --  sort of.  The needle moves, but maybe about 1/4th of what it should.

So what is the science behind grounding a tach terminal through a resistor to suddenly make the tach work?

"If I touched the case with one hand and the terminal with the other, the tach worked, but I also got zapped!"

Can you tell me if the zapping pulsed approximately to the frequency of spark pulses?

If so (and I'm guessing, here) the signal coming from the electronic ignition is too much for the input of the Brazilian tach's meter driving PCB, driving it to saturation and the output (to the meter) goes to zero.  When you touch the case (ground) and the input lead (the center tab in the back) you're bleeding off some of the input signal power (current, in this case) thereby making a weaker signal that doesn't overload the circuit and allows it to drive the tach meter movement properly.

Pure friggin luck that you discovered that, and I was thinking the same thing - The connection provided by your fingers is in the 100K to 500K ohm range at that distance so you lucked out in resistor value selection (probably from your outstanding geek work in high school, no doubt).  

So why don't you get zapped from one hand but feel the current when using two hands?  Well, more nerve endings (driven by electricity) are in the circuit between two hands versus two fingers of the same hand (that's the best I can come up with).

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Yes Gordon it was a pulse.  Not nearly as strong as what you feel when you get zapped by a spark plug wire.

Before I headed to Radio Shack, I used my multimeter to measure the impedance across the tip of my finger and came up with about 150k ohms, so I had a pretty good idea of what value I needed and bought several above and below that. They were 90% off and only cost about 35¢ for a pack of 5! 

The smaller values got a little warm, but the 100k resistors stayed cool to the touch. 

You're still lucky in one regard - We're down to the last two Radio Shack stores in the state and they'll be gone in a few months.  When I was in high school, abot the same time as you, "You Do It!" Electronics just outside of Boston was the go-to place for electronic components.  Believe it or not, they're still there, and online, too.  Of course, it helps having a couple of dozen Engineering schools within a 30 mile radius!  

http://www.youdoitelectronics.com

Built my first electronics Science Fair project with their stuff - a small demo of dual J-K Flipflops (the cornerstone of computer hardware logic) - back in 1960.  NOBODY on the judging panel knew what the heck they demonstrated and I didn't even place.  Went away grumpy for a couple of years, then came back with a 400-watt Tesla Coil that would light any flourescent light bulb within 50 feet...Whether or not it was connected to anything.  THAT got their attention!

The other thing I may have lucked out on was the 1/2 watt rating.  Some of the resistors I bought were 1/4 watt and one great big one was a 10 watt.  I had no idea what wattage I really needed and just bought what they had in their very limited selection that was jumbled together in a big 90% off box full of all kinds of switches, knobs, thermocouples and other small Radio Shack do-dads. 

Gordon Nichols posted:

The tach doesn't care if it's in a Beck, VS or CMC.  All it cares about is 12 volts, a ground to complete the circuit and an input trigger signal (within expected limits).  Give it that and it's happy in whatever language it was created in.  

Of course.  Then I guess there must be something different between the input trigger signal from the coil in the Beck and from the the coil in the VS.

MusbJim posted:

DANG, Troy! I knew you were good at these things, but I didn't know you were MR. Science as well. Great troubleshooting skills you got there! 

Well:  

I would equate his brilliance to that of this well know person in the scientific community :

dr zeus20170211_074730

Quite the resemblance as well !!!

 

Tebs

 

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