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So my CMC has the really tight driver's side tire to fender being that it is on a 69 pan (dual spring plates). The passenger's side has 1 inch+. So--can you replace the driver's side with a shortened arm??

Please, no 5000-word explanations--I read 130 8th grade Science papers several times a week already so please no guessing guys.

 

David

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The CMC and FF cars are known for this, I sand away all but 1/4 - 5/16" of the driver's inner wheel well lip this give you just enough spacing and still enough meat on the fiberglass arch for structural support. You do not have to do all of the arch just a 8" or so area where the tires comes closest than just taper the sanded area.  Hope this helps and makes it easy.

Heritage 2008 posted:

So my CMC has the really tight driver's side tire to fender being that it is on a 69 pan (dual spring plates). The passenger's side has 1 inch+. So--can you replace the driver's side with a shortened arm??

Please, no 5000-word explanations--I read 130 8th grade Science papers several times a week already so please no guessing guys.

 

David

Since you asked for brevity:

Yes, you could change one side.

You could also wear a pair of platforms on your right foot and a slipper on your left.

ALAN & DANNYP approaches are simple, inexpensive & quick, just dusty.

SACTO MITCH's suggestion for tire size is also good.

Both rear tires on my car were rubbing, not real badly, but whenever the suspension flexed on bumps.  I changed the rims.  The setback on the rims that came with the car was 4 1/2".  I found rims with a 4" set back that moved the tire away from the inner fender bead.  Not inexpensive or quick but it worked.

I've swatted my share of flies with sledge hammers, may be wise to consider the KISS approach as ALAN & DANNYP suggested.

 

 

 

Dunno what tires the OP has (which is why I asked), but if 185's, a simple switch down to 175's might be the most painless solution (although maybe not on the wallet).

Not much of a selection in 175's, although Continental makes a few nice ones (which I've had on my Mini Cooper for many years). I'm about to get a set for the Speedster.

My hunch is (on a swing axle rear), that not many would feel any difference in grip between 185's and 175's.

 

So here's the difference between 165 and 175.  I went from 165/80x15 to 185/65x15.  The car sits 1/2' lower (lire is 1 inch smaller diameter) - here you can see going to 1/75 would lower car another 1/4" since tire is 1/2" shorter.


Tire Size Comparison

Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
185/65-15         4.7in  12.2in    24.5in         76.9in        824        0.0%
175/65-15         4.5in  12.0in    24.0in         75.3in        842       -2.1%

I purchase my tires at Walmart or Sam's. Every tire shop has the same issue--mounting guy here today gone tmro. My local Walmart guy has been with them for 12 years and he is the only guy to touch my cars/trucks etc--also the shop manager. They have the best prices I can find and ship them free to the store of choice. And---how many Walmarts are there so when you are on the road they don't close at 5 or you need an appointment. I check the sidewall rating, DOT stamp, wear limit etc. Just put 70,000 Kumho's on Tacoma that would have cost me $250 elsewhere (575 OTD)--yes I check others but then you waste time with wheeling and dealing. 

 

So pay $20 more per tire and get a name brand. Many tires are now made overseas with update Science and Technology. Try to buy a USA Brands TV, Frig etc.

Just my $.25--damn inflation

I would do both sides the same and use a wheel spacer on the passenger's side so it looks even in the wheel well opening.  Rear axle geometry would then stay the same and no weird unequal axle jacking possible.

Ordered replacement BF Goodrich Sport tires from Walmart for MB - OEM staggered 40 series front and 45 rear.  They said they couldn't mount - another Walmart 20 miles away refused too saying their mounting equipment was from 1990.  Argh.

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