Can't get the VS to start up

It's getting gas, right?

What kind of carbs do you have?  Webers are known for getting clogged idle jets, which can cause some backfiring.  I've never known that to keep the car from starting, though.

Poping and cracking  ?  if it runs fine for about 10 minute or so its a coil .. If it will not crank make sure the idle solenoid is connected .  a single carb has 2 wires from the coil . One to the choke  and one to the idle solenoid on the left side of the carb. 

A  spring off of the advance inside the dizy  can cause problems  I have uses GM curve kit springs to fix that use the lightest ones in the kit.  

If the dizzy  10 mm bolt got lose and the dizzy slipped up out of the block it will not run.  It has a offset slot simply pop the cap rotate the rotery button lighty pressing down on the dizzy as you do it. until it goes back in . i use  timming light on it to 8 degrees before TDC.. but you can static time it with a test light  

Turn the engine  by the alternator bolt until the TDC  notch on the lower pulley  is top center  with the rotor on number one wire plug on the cap. i turn it to the left about one inch. That shoud be close to 8 degrees.

Put a test light lead on the coil negative spade and the other lead to the dizzy lead . Losen and turn the dizzy with the key on untill you can make the light flick on and off with just the slightest rotation of the dizzy.  let it just barley be out. and lock down the dizzy.. YOUR TIMMED!

Just maybe, I had something similar. My electronic fuel pump crapped out on me. It ran (barely) until the fuel pots ran out in the carbs themselves and then that was it, no fuel, not going anywhere.

Had that happen to me, too.

I don't have a timing light. Could Napa or someone like that have one? I'm going to pop the filters off the carbs and see if a spray of gas looks to be getting where it needs to be going. Also, (once again please excuse my ignorance) where is the fuel filter located on the VS? Could it possibly be gummed up really bad? Thanks to everyone like always for the help.

 Its this ethanal fuel its all crap

If you have Webers (and maybe Dellortos) there is a little filter screen at the inlet valve for each carb.  I just found out about that myself.  It sure caused me some weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth.

If you have spark, it has to be fuel a related problem.....   I had a collapsed fuel filter cause me to chase my tail for almost two weeks....   New fuel lines (steel) and hoses, new electric fuel pump, Rebuild on the DELs, and multiple jet inspections, etc. etc. etc...

Finaly checked fuel delivery at the carbs...  Not that good... Hmmmmm....  pulled the hose off the tanks new NAPA filter and the delivery still sucked...   Pulled the hose at the tank and was flooded instantly....  New filter fixed it all...

The symptoms were as follows...Turn on ignition, listen for pump, hit the key....  The engine would start ok, and a blip or two seemed good.... Ease it up to the road and try to have a go, the engine starts to spit and backfire with real garbage performance even at speed (when attained)...  This intensified over time as the filter collapsed farther and farther...

The fuel system could keep up at idle, but the bowls went dry when you tried to get moving...   Hope this helps...  

Just verified I am getting spark/timing light is giving me a flash on cyl 1. I'll check that off the list. Now going to start checking fuel related possibilities. Garrrrrrr. Football starts in two hours! Let's see if I can get this fixed before hand!

Thanks,

Chase

Just popped the housings off the carbs and noticed the right weber carb had a little bit of smoke coming out of it after that timing test?!?

The smoke is probably fuel dropping into the warm engine and vaporizing.... I, personaly, would not worry about it too much....  (Should be a brief phenomenon.)

Thanks Leon. I want to check the fuel filter but am having trouble locating it. Do you know where it is stashed on a VS? I am assuming it is hiding up front somewhere on this damn thing. Might be time for the 'ol jack?

If there is one at the tank, you should be able to see it from the passenger side wheel well...

(You may have to remove the tire to service it.)

I've got a VS, and as Leon said There's a fuel filter tucked up behind the wheel on the right side. I've another inline fuel filter tucked up behind the drivers side rear wheel.

Both are the transparent canister type so a check for contaminates can be done visually.   

The only thing left is the stalk screen in the tank. and they can be a pain

We popped off a fuel line before one of the carbs and there was a good bit of fuel in the line. I thought it could have been the fuel filter until we saw that. Think it still could good be? Damn it, ****, balls, i'm going nuts!

Ok. Little bit of progress. Looked as if the new condenser was a little loose. Tightened it back up, got it started up and by feathering the throttle for about 30 secs it will then stay running and slowly drop in RPM's down to about 300 with the occasional backfire. Progress but still not resolved.

You should try using Sta-Bil "Marine Formula Ethanol Treatment" in your gas tank. It is the blue liquid. My idle jets were clogged on my Weber 44's and the car popped, backfired and hesitated when taking off from a stop or at low speed acceleration. I attribute the uncivilized behavior to the addition of Ethanol. Ethanol screws everything up by leaving build up and deposits in the carbs. Follow the instructions on the bottle,let the car sit for a day so that the Sta-Bil can work it's magic. You may want to see if pouring a little gas into the carbs,will get it to run. That would be further evidence of clogged jets.

Yeah I have also been using Sta-Bil since I purchased the vehicle as well. I agree about the crap fuel. 

Run some "Sea Foam" into your gas tank, cleans up the varnish that ethanol leaves on your gas lines.

Since it is damn near impossible to get non-ethanol gas, keep Stabil in your tank and use Sea Foam (or any other fuel system cleaner) to remove the varnish that ethanol leaves.

The Sta-Bil "Marine Formula Ethanol Treatment" is 4 times more effective than Original Sta-Bil.

Terry, The Sta-Bil does clean the carburetors, and is way better and cheaper than the Seafoam. No need for both!

Holy crap we got it!!!!!!  Looks like it was two different problems. We were having a weak spark so replaced all the plugs and lines and got a solid spark but no stable idle. Pulled the carbs off and one of the mounting bolts had magically came unscrewed and was causing a problem with a good seal so cleaned up the carbs, put 'em back on, adjusted the carbs and the idle with the T-bar and BAM!!! Smooth drive!!!! Just when I was about to throw in the towel. 

Thank you EVERYBODY for your help!!! Stay classy!

-Chase

Glad you got it fixed, Chase, and thx for letting others know what the problem was.  That's how we all learn. 

Absolutely. Thanks again!

Always nice to see a successful end to a problem. Congrats! Al

Glad to hear that you're back in business! Now get out there and drive it like you stole it!! 

Clearly Gerd, Vince, or myself didn't participate in this thread

That goes without saying! 

STAY GASSY! .......NOW you guys can participate!

Did somebody say "Gassy"

Vinny, great photo of you on your first bike! 

You know....Stay Classy!! And that bike was faster then it looks. Just FYI

 Please remember to always turn off the key as soon as possable  ..save your points and condencer...  But I still prefer protronics and a 3 ohm flame thrower coil  . So much more dependable and removes the point burning issue