Can't get to second

During my first drive in the car it began to have difficulty in shifting into second gear. Transmision is quiet and when it does go into second which is about one in four times goind up and never downshifting. I assume it is somewhere in the linkage rod adjustment but cannot find anyting about it in either of my books.

Help would be appreciated.

Troy

Troy,

Adjustment is by moving the gear lever base on its four slotted mounting bolts.

With 2nd and 4th you are pulling the shift rod away from the gearbox. I might be you need to shift the gearlever forward slightly to ensure the rod is pulled out further. How's 4th behave?

Or, it might be 2nd is trapped between reverse and 2nd (where as there is no similar gate for 1st). Then you'd want to shift the gear lever base left very slightly, to reduce the rotation the lever creates on the linkage shaft with respect to the lever position. Is the car easy to get into reverse?

There is no adjustment in the (later style certainly) coupling in the rear central tunnel. However, as the linkage rod is shortened in the build process like the chassis, and is a complex shape, the alighment of the shortened rod can be slightly out. I had alot of problems with gear selection initially (like no 3rd or 4th!) but solved them with a standard rubber coupling rather than using an aftermarket urethane one. Bizzare!

Sorry I did not say what happened trying to get to 2nd. Goes into fourth smooth as silk. Reverse is easy and occasionally first can be difficult. Simon you mention four slotted mounting bolts. All I see are the two bolts that hold down the spring loaded top mount. Is there something down below the carpet?

Hey Troy,

Assuming that the trans itself isn't at fault, there are two adjustment/trouble points to check.

Before touching the shifter (and those two bolts) lift the carpet in the rear and remove the inspection plate on the top of the tunnel right next to the VIN stamped into the tunnel. Beneath this plate is the shift coupler. It's a cage-like device that connects the shift rod with the trans and it should be NEW LOOKING. If it's old/worn/broken replace it with a German or urethane one. It's responsible for the "feel" of the shifts when driving as well as being the sole connection point.

If thats OK, or once you replace it, if the trouble continues, then you can adjust the shifter. The adjustment is limited to fore and aft and only amount to an inch at best. The shifter will move more than that, but the "sweet spot" where everything works, is very limited.

Loosen the two bolts that hold the shifter to the tunnel, just a tiny bit. just enough so that the entire shifter assembly moves back and forth with some difficulty. If it's too far back, center it and vice versa, tighten the bolts after each minor movement until all the gears engage correctly. This is kind of a do it by feel thing., you'll know when it's right.

That's about it. If the trans is good, you should be all set to go. If the shifter still hangs in the gears and all else checked out, it's the shifter itself.

I have a good stock shifter mechanism that I use almost as a diagnostic tool for this. When all else is correct and the stock works, then the aftermarket needs adjustment/replacement.

Most aftermarket shifters have a single adjustment point and that's for the reverse lock-out. Usually a double nut or insert nut which tensions the spring. If you're getting reverse OK, then leave it alone. If not, you can loosen it a bit to allow a little more side to side movement. Sometimes the shifter will wobble too much, in this case you can tighten up a bit on the spring to lessen it.

Sorry for the length, hope it helps.

Luck,

TC

Oops, my mistake. Two mounting bolts, not four. Doesn't change the principle though.

When I read the title of this post 'Can't get to second', it reminded me of some of my old girlfriends.

Notice, I said 'some'.

Hey I hear ya Robert.

When I posted the message, I knew I would get replies from lots of you with a very different siuation in mind and it worked.

Now to the problem. I found the squirrel cage connector. It looks pretty old and dirty (car has 28k miles on it) It appears to be connected to a threaded shaft that looks like it is adjustable as it screws into the shaft from the shifter. It is held onto a shaft that I assume goes into the transmissiong by a square headed lock bolt.

I'll just replace it. I will check the parts houses when they open monday or tuesday (if anyone in the east bay {SF Bay that is} knows of a source I would apprecite the information). The real question is how does it come off and what are the tricks in reinstalling the new one?

TM

If the 2 square bushing are lose and floppy replace them.
The bolt and nut that passes threw them is the only thing to worry about.is if you drop it in the tunnel you'll have to go fishing for it or visit a bug junk yard.
If your car has the adjustable coupler you could shorten that If it was lose ,that would also be a possable culpret

Bob, rumour has it that you'd always try to hit a home run, but usually ended up with foul ball(s).
Ron

Troy,

The square headed bolt locates into a dimple on the gearbox's linkage - no adjustment there, short of taping a hole in the coupling in a different location (tried that when I couldn't get two of my gears at all; didn't need it in the end).

Troy, I think you arrived at the problem; I remember years ago I had a similar problem with my now defunct Karmann Ghia. I just bought the new assembly (at the time you could buy them new at your VW/Audi dealerships) and installed it pretty quickly; ran like a charm. Now you can also find replacements with urethane bushings instead of rubber. If I were you I'd stick with an OEM part; they last a long time.

Thanks all, but I just cannot see what do disconnect. The cage has a bolt through it which is perpendicular to the shaft from the shift lever. It passes through what I guess it the plastic parts that wear. One end of the bolt has a standard head the other end is a of metal (may be some strange kind of nut) that spins when I turn the bolt but cannot be held on place to unscrew the bolt. That is if this is what I am to disconect. I don't force things and would rather ask advice.

Thanks in advance

TM

That bolt needs to come out. I know what you mean about that crazy nut, but your bushings are worn out and it's spinning. You will be replacing the complete cage assembly, so vice grips, dremel, plasma torch(hehe) or whatever to get that bolt out, just be careful not to damage the shaft that comes out of the tranny, so no heat and no banging. Once that bolt is out, remove the set screw on the other side and remove the cage. Then gently place it in the garbage can and replace with new unit.

Fred,
Thanks very much, that makes things clearer. I notice that JC Whitney offers two part number ZX382007R and ZX382354N. My car is based upon a 61 Ghia pan but since the engine and trans are newer I am a bit confusedabout which to buy. Wow I feel like a real dummy, but it has been a long time since I have worked on a VW.
Troy

Troy:

don't feel like a dummy - that's for us old(er) folks! Just latch onto that nut with a pair of vise grips and spin the bolt head out and you're half-done (putting in the new coupler is the other half!)

gn

Troy:

don't feel like a dummy - that's for us old(er) folks! Just latch onto that nut with a pair of vise grips and spin the bolt head out and you're half-done (putting in the new coupler is the other half!)

gn