Vintage built car, just got it, only starts when you release the key from turning the engine over, put a volt meter in the front and noticed before cranking in the on position the coil had 12volts dropped to 9.5 during cranking. Bought new battery and now has 12 before cranking and 11.5 at the coil while cranking, still only starts when you let off the key. Ran a wire from the battery right to the coil to take the ignition switch out of the loop, same thing.... the car has a pertronix eye in the dist. tied to what looks like a stock coil, supposed to run a pertronix coil so I have one coming monday, would think 11.5 volts while cranking would be enough to fire it ??? anybody had a similar hiccup ? thanks .
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I had a vehicle that would run only with the starter engaged. As soon as the key was released from the start position the motor would stop running. My problem was a faulty ballast resistor.
I don't see how you can have the motor start with the key released from the start position. Perhaps you've got something mis-wired.
Jason
the motor is still spinning from the key being in the start position, then when you release it and it defaults to the run position you get 12 volts instead of the 11.5 when cranking to the coil and the coil fires and the car starts ... I've seen many a jetski do this when the battery is low, when you get the motor spinning then release the start button the ignition gets the complete 12 volts and they start, hence the new battery.
My first instinct would be the ignition switch, but the OP bypassed it. So I guess that takes the ignition switch out of the equation.
If the switch truly isn't the problem, it's either a faulty battery or ground cable or a bad connection somewhere between the battery and starter. In this case, when the starter load is removed, the battery cables can pass enough voltage and current to fire the coil.
Probably has the wire going to the 12V + on the coil to ACC terminal on the Ignition switch instead of being connected to the IGN terminal on the switch. To route more amps to the starter when cranking, the ACC terminal is not have voltage until the key switch is released.
I thought running a wire right from the battery positive to the coil positive while spinning the engine over would take any part of the ignition switch being defective/wired incorrectly out of it, as the coil positive side had direct 12 bolts back to the battery ? Will stick backside of switch tomorrow, have also ran ground wire to negative side of battery to negative side of coil while doing this .
@Alan Merklin posted:Probably has the wire going to the 12V + on the coil to ACC terminal on the Ignition switch instead of being connected to the IGN terminal on the switch. To route more amps to the starter when cranking, the ACC terminal is not have voltage until the key switch is released.
You may be correct, but if he ran a wire from the battery direct to the coil, the switch terminal used doesn't matter.
That is in fact how I wired mine. It makes you use the starter button instead of turning the key to start...
update on car only starts when letting off on key, metered ignition switch and found some positions were hit and miss for positive connection, replaced that at autozone with exact replacement for 15.00, then after install of switch found broken wire to positive side of coil in harness, ran new wire thru car and finished.... thanks for ideas from the members. But wait, theres more... now have 3 keys to car !