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So my single-dual progressive weber ran well until my first gas fill up after purchasing the car. After fill up it ran really rough, no power (1-3 gears), and sounded like a cylinder was missing, plus now backfiring. Drove home 1/8 mile from the gas station (under 30mph) and now won’t start. Turns over, engine cavitates, spits (from the muffler), bangs from the exhaust and does not start. The speedster drove flawless until the fill up. I’ve put 260 mile on it since purchase and first fill up. Before my first fill up were short stints of driving around town/highway with no issues. I would open up to 4,500 rpm here and there but nothing sustained.

 

I did a lot of research and searching on this site, with a few owners with similar issues.

I checked and noticed that my #4 spark plug wire was off (not sure how) and was sure that was the cause (from forum advice). Reconnected, didn’t change, still banging and not starting. The carb squirts gas on throttle. Checked plugs (black), replaced with new gapped .006. Checked valves, some of the exhausts were a bit tight, reset all to spec .006. Still no start (starter turns fine). I have a brand new optima battery as well. Coil is electric flame thrower installed 2012 (PO) receipts.

 

So, now I’m figuring the “bad gas” theory I’ve read about on this site. Replaced engine filter and filter before electric pump. Found a ton of crap (pics) before the fuel pump in the filter. Not sure if any had gotten through. So replacing that filter now shows clean gas (in the filter).

 

I also purchased a carter rotary to replace the electric pulsing pump/w kill switch, thinking the pump has particles in it as well (it’s very loud). Planning to install.

 

Now I’m looking to take apart the weber and find/clean what I can (first time) and see if that solves my problem. Also, going to run a compression test. 

 

I’m a missing anything and how difficult is to service the single carb myself (cleaning)?

1957 CMC Speedster Wide body.

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Last edited by Scott57
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Consider pumping that questionable gas out of the tank and replace it with something from a different station.  I got a tankfull of really bad gas at a service area on the New Jersey turnpike, once.  The vehicle (my Pickup truck) ran absolutely terrible and that lasted all the way to Virginia when I had to fill up again.  Within seconds of the new fill-up, it was running just fine again.

 

You probably won't have to do a full tear-down on the carbs.

 

Just pull the jets and blow them out.  While they're out, remove the idle mixture screw(s) and shoot a stream of carb cleaner up into each mixture screw hole, then put everything back together.  98% of the time, that cures it.

 

BUT.......since you found all that crud in the filter you may want to remove the carb top and see if anything is crud-ing up the float bowl and get it out of there, too.  If the bowl is cruddy, remove the gas line and put it into a gas can, start the electric pump and let it pump for a minute or so to flush the line.

 

Good luck!

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
Originally Posted by Gordon Nichols - Massachusetts 1993 CMC:

Consider pumping that questionable gas out of the tank and replace it with something from a different station.  I got a tankfull of really bad gas at a service area on the New Jersey turnpike, once.  The vehicle (my Pickup truck) ran absolutely terrible and that lasted all the way to Virginia when I had to fill up again.  Within seconds of the new fill-up, it was running just fine again.

 

You probably won't have to do a full tear-down on the carbs.

 

Just pull the jets and blow them out.  While they're out, remove the idle mixture screw(s) and shoot a stream of carb cleaner up into each mixture screw hole, then put everything back together.  98% of the time, that cures it.

 

BUT.......since you found all that crud in the filter you may want to remove the carb top and see if anything is crud-ing up the float bowl and get it out of there, too.  If the bowl is cruddy, remove the gas line and put it into a gas can, start the electric pump and let it pump for a minute or so to flush the line.

 

Good luck!

How do you dispose of 8 gallons of gas?Once I pump it into cans, who takes it?

Scott before you pump all of your gas out why not get a gallon of good gas and route the fuel pump line-in tube into it and try that. have someone turn the engine over while you spray some carb cleaner into the carbs and see if it doesn't... start. I was going to say "fire up" but omitted.

 

Also Danny mentioned the spark plug gaps. .006 may be a little too small of a gap. Try .026 or a little thicker than a matchbook cover.

Last edited by Rusty S
Originally Posted by LeonChupp:

I assumed you had a mechanical pump....   If so, just pull the hose at the pump....  You may need to buy 2ft. of 1/4" fuel line to use between the gas can and pump...

No, it's electric with a shutoff switch. Small box type. Pulses kind of loudly. Already bought a 6" foot braided line for my engine filter relocation project. My question is if the tank gas is bad and I pump it out, how do I dispose of 6-8 gallons of gas? I live in a TH in a city.

Last edited by Scott57

Didn't have any time this weekend to work on the carbs.

Friday, afterwork happy hour (my wife okay'ed it). Saturday, early morning birthday-play date with my 2 year old and wife's friends. Then afternoon purchased a 2110 for my speedster, followed by dinner out with more kiddies and friends. Sunday, friends 45th birthday picnic/bbq with all the fellas and families (50+ attended) for 7 hours.

Pretty beat.

 

So I plan on testing things this week.

Last edited by Scott57
Originally Posted by TRP:
Originally Posted by Scott57:
Then afternoon purchased a 2110 for my speedster...

Sorry... what happened? You're just going to gloss over that?

 

Do tell,

Ted

Ted I was able to get the 2110 advertised on this forum.

https://www.speedsterowners.com...otor-long-block-plus

 

The seller ended up being local to me. I looked the 2110 over, talked with Corry (the seller) over 3 hours, and with some advice from forum members Al and Stan, I considered the situation, price and proximity, I pulled the trigger. Corry is even going to help me install it and make sure it runs the way I want. Wasn't expecting that! Very nice guy.

 

So now I'm going to start a thread on suggestions of what I need with the motor before install. He also sold me, for a few $$, a pair of Weber IDF 44s stamped "made in Italy" on them--I passed on the 48s. I'm now looking for manifolds and filters that will fit (clear the lid) in my CMC with the 2110. 

 

Also, still need to get my 1600 started and sorted so I can drive it over to his shop. We are going to pull what we can from my 1600. Everything happened kinda fast, so I'm playing catchup. Happened over a busy weekend.

Ok. Finally getting to my carb problem after gas fill up. I got it to final start and idle now, but it's running really, really rough and loud now—not like before. I didn't drive it, only let it idle for 15 min. I was trying to identify any leaks, where the fast idle and speed idle screws are but couldn't find them. I can see the idle mixture screw, but it's against the fan shroud. My weber looks like the DGEV but I could be wrong. Following the diagram, the screws are not there. I've attache pics and a video of my carb at idle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

 

Can anyone point out where the adjustment screws are? I'd like to see if adjusting would help before I remove and tear down the carb.

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Last edited by Scott57

In picture 4, the screw that points to 10 o'clock by the throttle lever is the idle speed screw. The screw on the bottom of the carb behind the rubber vacuum plug is the idle mixture screw.

 

That carb looks almost exactly like the Holley/Weber on my old '74 Vega. UGH!!! I loved/hated that car!

 

Can't view video, it is flagged as private. What do you mean by more noisy?

Last edited by DannyP
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