Here is a change of pace. Instead of posting a question that you can discuss (hell, we live for that don
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Here is a change of pace. Instead of posting a question that you can discuss (hell, we live for that don
David - thanks for sharing those tech tips - I learn something new everytime I visit this site!
If George reads this he will turn over, but I've always started diagnosing carb issues with a small propane torch. At idle, if you have a leak, the engine will idle up a bit when you put the unlight propane torch around the potential leak areas. I've even used a piece of v8 heater hose. Now, go ahead tell me I'm Krazy.
It works, but all you're doing is enrichining the mix being drawn into the cylinder. Just don't LIGHT that torch!!
As an alternative, just spray some carb cleaner around the manifold gaskets while the engine is running. Accomplishes the same thing if you don't have a torch handy (like out on the road). If you have a leak, the rpm's will increase when the carb cleaner reaches a hole in the intake gasket.
As an alternative, just spray some carb cleaner around the manifold gaskets while the engine is running. Accomplishes the same thing if you don't have a torch handy (like out on the road). If you have a leak, the rpm's will increase when the carb cleaner reaches a hole in the intake gasket.
OK Jack - you're crazy. Mainly because I HAD NO idle with this vacuum leak. Anything below 1800 and the engine would instantly stall. I couldn't even run around to the engine to "sniff" it. Maybe if you'd been there to help me, your propane would've increased the idle to 2000 RPM? I'm more used to leak testing with carb cleaner, and seeing the engine bog down a bit, but I welcome all insights. Thank you.
You know, some old friends remember when my nick name was Kraz or Kraze, but that was long ago and I've changed some of my driving habits. Now, if it wouldn't idle below 1800, that qualifies as a major leak!