Carb sync-ing

OK, the hex is the instrument of the devil.

But some of us have heater tubes that we're told don't play well with the Synch-Link (although there are rumors that a fix is in the works).

So, does anyone have experience with this new option from Vintage Speed?

Granted, there are still bits to wear, but it sure looks like the sum total of all slop that accumulates as a result of those wearing bits can be dialed out with one pretty straightforward adjustment - maybe once a year or so.

Which shouldn't be much more of a deal than, say, using a snail to set idle synch.

Anyone? Bueller? Anyone?

uhhh, that's what I just described...and it's not that new anymore, been out for 2 years now...

someone tell Mitch it's not 5 yet, at least here on the West Coast...

Doh! This always happens to me!

Someone is typing the answer just as I'm typing the question.

But does the argument hold water that this should work a whole lot better than the hex bar - even over time as bits start to wear?

Isn't that what Lane's running?

I love mine

Will.....I think our new linkage is a PUSH arrangement rather than a pull. As you mentioned, you have to leave a little slack in the linkage out at the carbs. When the bell crank is turned by the throttle cable, it PUSHES the carb, throttle levers to open the throttle valves. With this slack (set up evenly on both carbs) it's easy to set the idle screw adjusters to "sync" the idle (and speed) on both carbs with a snail. Then go back and set the slack even on both carbs again for a good starting point to check the synchronization at say 2500 RPM.  That "slack" in this PUSH design allows a really nice margin of separation for synchronization at idle and at whatever cruise RPM you are comfortable with.

Another thing I like is that I can reach down in there and open the throttle just enough to totally disconnect the throttle PUSH rod on the carburetor end with out any tools. If your carbs are index pinned to the manifold, you could feasibly remove and replace the carb without changing the throttle linkage adjustment and synchronization.

I don't know if this throttle linkage will work if you have heaters but they look low enough that maybe it's possible. That's a good question to ask Vintage Speed.

Here's something I encountered during installation of this linkage. If you have a CB serpentine belt system, the idler pulley mounting bracket interferes with the throttle mounting bracket. It is necessary to install three longer studs on the alternator tower  and fabricate two stand-off bushings (thick washers) under the two rear holes of the idler pulley mounting bracket. I'm not sure I'm explaining this totally correctly but it will become readily apparent what you have to do when you do this install if you have a CB serpentine belt system. It actually makes the belt tension adjustment process a little easier too.

As Will said....I am very pleased with this new and simple linkage. Also it is very high quality, simple, attractive and works..........Bruce

"Also it is very high quality, simple, attractive and works."

Can't ask for any more than that!

Gordon Nichols posted:

Isn't that what Lane's running?

I’m running CSP’s version.  Much happier with it than the hex bar setup.