i have webers on my 1915.had recently started popping on decel and at idle would sound like it would miss every 4th revolution.now it is starting to sputter at speed. Any ideas?thanks in advance.
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Grab a carb and see if the manfiold has worked loose. Even a tiny movement means sucking in air which will change the mixture. The combined weight with torque does loosen connections.
Really rough-n-ready answer, since there's no way to know without at least some audio of the issue.
Do you have a timing light? If you do (after you check your timing- 28-30* total advance at 3000 RPM or son), clamp it on all 4 wires (one at a time) while the car is running. Does the light flash on every wire? It's an inductive light and can tell you if one of your plugs/wires is bad.
If that's OK, do your idle mixture screws each respond to adjustment? If you are uncomfortable with messing with them, try covering the air-horns (velocity stacks) one at a time with the palm of your hand. Doing so should almost kill the engine. If it has no effect, you probably have a plugged idle jet. If one of them causes the engine to speed up momentarily, it's got a vacuum leak.
Good luck.
check your carb balance! Mine did that until I corrected the incorrect balance.
Tom--solid advice posted above.
I was having the deceleration backfiring and found that my C. B. Performance linkage was the culprit. It was binding and not letting one carb return to idle too because that little ball inside the hex bar that presses against the spring was completely work out.
New linkage solved the issue. I could have replaced just the balls and springs but I wanted afresh linkage. I have 40k miles on my car and 15k on ths engine and it has never run as well as it does today. Sayin' that, I almost am afraid I'll jinx myself---but it's the truth.
I covered up the. velocity stacks, one side kills the engine the other does not.the one that does not ,seems to start blowing white smoke from the exhaust on that side
if it is the idle jet ,to clean it out do I have to remove the carb? I have 44 idf
No, you don't have to remove the carbs, but sometimes it almost seems as if it would be easier. The idle jets on IDF's are a bit of a pain in the a&& as they are on the side of the carbs that usually get turned to the outside. Some of these cars don't leave a lot of room to work with, so it's pretty tight, even with the shortest of screwdrivers. There are idle jet holders that take a hex wrench available from a couple of different vendors and they will make it easier. The Jay Cee jet holders use either a wrench or allen key- http://www.piersideparts.net/JC04.html
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Luckily NOT! I had a big piece of crud in one of my idle jets and was shocked when I removed it! The idle jets are NOT easy to get out with the restricted area of our engine compartments but if you use a stubby screw driver and don't get frustrated you CAN get them out! Remember there is a usually green O ring rubber washer that MUST as well not be lost of forgotten. Usually it will stay in the hole but can fall out. Crude in idle jets can cause havoc and make you nuts! Careful balancing and cleaning of the stack and idle jets is something anyone can do!
Good hob, Tom. Isn't it satisfying to attempt a fix that works? Nuttin' like it!
thanks for the input everyone,going to try to clean the jets