Cast Porsche Valve Covers

What exactly do you mean by cast Porsche valve covers? These?

My buddy bought a pair for his RSK but couldn’t ever keep them from dripping so he gave up.

I use these. My “secret” is to make sure the head surface is absolutely devoid of old gasket and use a new cork gasket every time. I clean the covers really well and glue the gaskets to the cover with high temp RTV.

Eric, mine sometimes weep a little. Mostly, they stay bone dry. I have other leaks too(oil cooler seal block-off and distributor hole). It's all typical type1 stuff. I'll address those this winter.

But these covers CAN be drip free.

Firstly, I use contact cement to glue the rubber-impregnated cork gaskets on. Don't use silicone or RTV with the sand-cast Porsche covers. They come off easy enough with Xylol or brake/carb cleaner. Honestly, I haven't changed a gasket in about 5 years. After you glue the gaskets on, smear a small amount of grease on the gasket where it meets the head, so it doesn't stick to the head.

I didn't get the hardware with the covers, but I couldn't use it anyway. I have Pauter roller-rockers, and they have 3/8"-24 studs and long coupling nuts. So I got some 3/8-24 hex bolts. What stopped most of the leaking was two things, some brass washers for under the bolts and O-rings. I used a countersink to chamfer the holes in the covers, and added a green Viton O-ring in the chamfer under a brass washer. I also drilled the bolt heads and safety wire them together so they can't back out.

I had these on the Spyder and no trouble with them leaking. My Speedster has the EMPI covers that can leak at the fastening screws. They attach the same way. I put a copper washer under the screw head and that has worked so far.

@DannyP posted:

Eric, mine sometimes weep a little. Mostly, they stay bone dry. I have other leaks too(oil cooler seal block-off and distributor hole). It's all typical type1 stuff. I'll address those this winter.

But these covers CAN be drip free.

Firstly, I use contact cement to glue the rubber-impregnated cork gaskets on. Don't use silicone or RTV with the sand-cast Porsche covers. They come off easy enough with Xylol or brake/carb cleaner. Honestly, I haven't changed a gasket in about 5 years. After you glue the gaskets on, smear a small amount of grease on the gasket where it meets the head, so it doesn't stick to the head.

I didn't get the hardware with the covers, but I couldn't use it anyway. I have Pauter roller-rockers, and they have 3/8"-24 studs and long coupling nuts. So I got some 3/8-24 hex bolts. What stopped most of the leaking was two things, some brass washers for under the bolts and O-rings. I used a countersink to chamfer the holes in the covers, and added a green Viton O-ring in the chamfer under a brass washer. I also drilled the bolt heads and safety wire them together so they can't back out.

Thanks, Danny.  I'm installing a set of these (as in above photo) next week.  Will follow your instructions. 

No problem, Eric. Here's a picture with safety(Mig) wire.

@DannyP what's that under your valve cover that looks like a spare spring bail?

thanks everyone for the pics and info. This is my last time messing with these, after car week and all the driving just made such a mess. I'll try the above Danny and see ho that works. Question did you have to re-tap for the Allen heads?

For the seals thats pretty much exactly how I did the install except the grease at the end.

oh and sorry for the Hilarious spelling mistakes...to much weed. haha

@edsnova posted:

@DannyP what's that under your valve cover that looks like a spare spring bail?

Exactly that. I made aluminum sled tins, reversed since mid-engine. The bail holds the tin in place, re-using the stock location in the head. I use the factory tapped holes on the case/sump area for the other end.

Dropped my oil and head temp by 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit and completely stopped the overheating at idle or stop-go traffic on HOT days. The hot air from the heads and cylinders goes backwards rather than hitting the ground and bouncing back up into the carbs and fan intake. I simply broke the "heat loop" or "vicious cycle" as I call it.

@ericthered posted:

thanks everyone for the pics and info. This is my last time messing with these, after car week and all the driving just made such a mess. I'll try the above Danny and see ho that works. Question did you have to re-tap for the Allen heads?

For the seals thats pretty much exactly how I did the install except the grease at the end.

No re-tapping. My rockers have 3/8-24" coupling nuts already. But I did have to drill the valve cover 8mm(5/16") holes to 3/8" to accommodate the larger Allen bolts.

@DannyP posted:

Exactly that. I made aluminum sled tins, reversed since mid-engine. The bail holds the tin in place, re-using the stock location in the head. I use the factory tapped holes on the case/sump area for the other end.

Dropped my oil and head temp by 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit and completely stopped the overheating at idle or stop-go traffic on HOT days. The hot air from the heads and cylinders goes backwards rather than hitting the ground and bouncing back up into the carbs and fan intake. I simply broke the "heat loop" or "vicious cycle" as I call it.

Danny, I read here on the forum about these "reverse sled tins" a week or so ago, and went to the googlenator to investigate.  I haven't yet figured out their shape and how they mount.  I may tap you at a later date for a pic or diagram.  ;-)

I'll have to take a picture or two and post them.

@DannyP posted:

I'll have to take a picture or two and post them.

At your convenience, Sir.  I found "sled tins" during my search last week -- I just need to get my head around the reverse thingy and how they mount. 

If you use VW factory tins, they SHOULD bolt right up, even reversed. Just make sure the hot air exits toward the back of the car.

@DannyP posted:

If you use VW factory tins, they SHOULD bolt right up, even reversed. Just make sure the hot air exits toward the back of the car.

Cool -- Thanks, Danny.  :-)

Here are some photos of when I made my tins.  Remember - These went into a Speedster so they are pointed in the opposite direction for your Spyder.

I had a dimensioned drawing at the time, but I couldn't quickly find it. @ALB do you have that drawing from a few years back?

More info, here:

https://www.speedsterowners.co...pic/sled-tins-redoux

Nice work, Gordon.

In addition to the reverse direction, J-tubes on Spyders usually tuck in closer to the sump than on the above photos. I chose to make mine full width(from case to the head just inside the valve cover flange). from one sweep of aluminum, and just cut a hole for the J-tube to go through. I'll have to get out to the garage and take a picture.

Here's Danny's tins.

This mod is also on my list. But I've got to find my electrical glitch first.

I could probably do something like Danny if I could ever get my J-tubes to separate from my extractor headers.  Last time I had the engine out, they were steadfastly rusted to each other.  Still, they’re in pretty good shape, although I am seriously thinking about replacing the mufflers this winter with something a lot quieter.

Even though “Loud Pipes Save Lives”….

They don’t save my hearing!

@Carlos G THANK YOU! Saved me the trouble.

If anyone is looking for some of these cast Porsche Valve Covers, I have a pair that I'd be willing to sell.    Message me if interested.

They don't fit my subie

I'm surprised someone locally doesn't scoff up @Colin's valve covers.  Or maybe Colin should re-think selling them.

Once cleaned up, they would make dandy grill covers for grilling hamburgers or even a Pork Loin on the grill.  A thick cover like that would keep the heat in and whatever's inside would cook twice as fast without over-searing the outside to charcoal.

And they would be a "Cah Guy's" bragging point when the neighbors come over for a cook-out.  I mean, how many grill caps say "Porsche" on them??