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For the last year or so, when my oil was getting dirty and nearing oil change time, the oil light would flicker when idling to a stoplight. The harder on the brakes, the brighter the light. Mind you, this is only when engine very warm on a very warm day with dirty(close to 3000 mile oil). Since I have an external filter and full flow, I figured I didn't need the screen filter thing in the bottom of the sump that CB provides. I figured that the oil getting dirty was slowing the flow and either foaming or just not flowing as well through the filter. Well I was right.

 

I ordered an extension tube from aircooled.net, but it didn't fit my pickup tube. I guess there are a couple of sizes, not my bag, maybe someone can educate me? According to what I've read on the Samba, the VW oil pump is a great pump but not very good at suction. I thought to make the suction job as easy as possible for the pump was the answer.  

 

I replaced the filter with a copper tube with a whole bunch of 1/4" holes in it taking up the space of the filter. I used green a Viton O-ring to seal it on each end. I don't have a permanent oil pressure gauge, but I know I have good pressures, 20 psi at idle when fully warmed and 40 to 60 underway. I am happy to report that the idiot light never flickers now and goes out much quicker on startup.

 

I would think CB would sell the thin-line with a tube instead of the filter as most(at least half?) of us have full-flow. EDIT: I see they do sell it without the filter and it comes with two pickup extensions. But it appears the extensions are not available separately from CB. Sources? 

 

What say you? 

2016 Vintage Spyder 2165 type1 EFI/Dry Sumped

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The filter is just a bad idea.

 

A: Restricting the inlet of any pump, especially one that you REALLY want to be unrestricted is ignorant.

B: Assuming the filter picks up nastiness, it is sitting submersed in the very fluid you are trying to clean. The net/net of this is that every time you shut the engine off, you drop stuff back into the sump.

 

There's nothing particularly special about the extended pick-up tubes CB provides. get a piece of 1/2 or 5/8 (o/d) copper pipe, and see if it fits over your pick-up. If it's a bit small, you can sweat on a coupling. If it's a bit big, you can cut some slots about 1/2 down from the end (lengthways on the pipe), and use a hose clamp to secure it. It's lousy, but that's what they do with the kits, or alternately, you could try to braze it on (but that's going to be hard under the car).

A: I agree, so I am no longer ignorant!

 

I tried to find some pipe locally and nothing was even close to a slip fit. If I ever tear the engine down I will braze an extension on. But for now I'm calling it good as my problem is solved and flow is excellent.

 

I just wish I had drilled and tapped and spot-faced the cover for a drain plug. Next oil change.......

there are kits that have about 4 sizes of pick up tubes.I dont like the cb filter,I do however like the oe filter screen to filter out any big chunks that would kill or lock up the pump. the vw oil pump is no diferent than a chevy pump and many others, ford& mopar use a better gearoter type pump.

 the pickup tube should be 1/4"~3/8" from the bottom&angle cut. if you use the oe type screen it dosent have to fit the tube tight(afterall it is ful of holes).Im wouldnet use the copper if using a screen  the screen would eat at the copper. idealy would be a brazed steel tube.

you can install the oe screen to the big cb sump plate!!! and you dont have to drill&tap the plate in the middle  it can be justabout any where else,just make sure it wont interfear with the screen if you choose to use one.you can also drill the sump and install one on the end, so you can get more of the oil out if you put it in a corner and drain it then raise the other corner of the car.dont forget that oil can be traped insde the engine sump it's drain in centered.so drain first then raise or lower the car to get mmore out.

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