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Good evening Gents. Just wanted to start this thread re my upcoming CB Performance Black Box install. Why? Put simply, all the other threads I've seen reference different manufacturers and/or engine sizes. Also, because our cars require a lot of trial and error, I figured I'd try to assist all the other VMC owners with the 2332 motor.

Stock setup from VMC is the following:

  • MagnaSpark II Distributor
  • MagnaSpark II Coil
  • MagnaSpark II 8.2mm Wires
  • NGK D6EA Spark Plugs


Initial planned setup will be the following:

  • MagnaSpark II Distributor
  • MagnaSpark II Coil
  • NGK DR8EA Spark Plugs
  • Magnecor KV85 Competition 8.5mm Wires
  • CB Performance Black Box Programmable Timing Control Module
  • CB Performance Vacuum Reference Kit


The following were questions I asked myself before choosing my planned setup:

  • New distributor? No: works well and is practically new.
  • New coil? No: see above.
  • New Spark Plugs? Yes: CB Performance recommends using resistor plugs.
    • Why standard plugs and not projected (DR8EA vs DPR8EA)? Projected plugs will introduce more noise into the initial equation. Want to set a solid baseline and dependable setup before further customization.
    • Why not go with Iridium spark plugs? Thread diameter is 14mm, which is not compatible with motor (stock D6EA plugs are have a 12mm thread diameter).
  • New wires? Yes: new wires will have 2.2k ohms resistance compared to 50 ohms; allows me to experiment with resistance wires + resistance plugs vs non-resistance wires + resistance plugs.
  • Why Black Box vs other types of ignition upgrades? I’m a newbie when it comes to ignitions. Black Box seemed to be a good introduction at a reasonable price point
  • Why Vacuum Reference Kit? Although many people told me it was not absolutely necessary, the kit’s low cost and ease of installation made it too good to pass up, especially in light of the potential performance increase and data feedback.
Original Post

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Don't waste your money on Iridium plugs. Regular NGK resistor plugs will be fine. My engine runs great with projected tip plugs(DP8EA9), which is what the builder specified. I am now running DPR8EA9 because of EFI.

I'd use what Pat Downs recommends for your engine, but in a resistor plug.

Normally, only one component of the ignition hi-voltage path needs to be resistor. I'd just do the plugs. Makes sense to use resistor plugs for noise/interference with the Black Box.

The vacuum advance/kit isn't going to give you more power. It may make acceleration better/smoother due to fine-tuning the ignition curve. It may also help with fuel economy, running high advance at light load(cruising).

I'm sure your current wires are fine.

Just like all those excessively expensive Monster HDMI cables out there(vs. the cheap ones that come with stuff), if the wires work they're fine.

The way to better spark is two-fold: precision and dwell time. Precision you're working on(black box), dwell time can be increased by increasing the number of coils, which is why everything today is coil-on-plug.

There is a lot of snake-oil in the spark industry: special coils, wires, and gimcrackery plugs.

@DannyP posted:

I'm sure your current wires are fine.

Just like all those excessively expensive Monster HDMI cables out there(vs. the cheap ones that come with stuff), if the wires work they're fine.

As Lee Corso says "Not so fast my friend."  😎I gotta chime in here with related story, the ol'Datsun L24 motor in my 81 Maxima was (240Z thru 84 810/Maxima) running "fine" but when I opened the hood one night with no garage lights around, I saw blue arcs of light all along the plug wires from the distributor to the plugs.   The wires still carried the spark, but I'd say not all the energy was getting to the plug. I replaced with some NGK wires and really could feel the difference in the smoothness of the engine revs and pull.   And no more blue light show under the hood👍👍.  The NGK's cost less than the OE dealer and were considered and aftermarket performance upgrade because of thicker insulation.

Point of the story, check the wires in the dark for poor insulation before assuming they are good.  

FWIW, I do agree with DannyP that there's 1. no need for some super-Monster cable, just a quality OE equivalent is fine & 2. there's a lot of spark snake-oil out there.  (my  $.02)

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