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I have been fighting a running gun-battle with the Hoopty's front brakes for a couple weeks now, and it looks like my options to solve the problem are limited. Everything's bled nicely, the pedal is high and working as it ought to, but the check-ride resulted in a carved rotor from a popped-off pad tensioner spring.

Varga used to make the Wide-5 brakes sold by CB Performance, but they no longer do. The pads and calipers I have are the type sold to upgrade Type Is, they tell me, but I remember buying them as 914 replacements. They're a single-piston system, with what are supposed to be drop-in pads.

The pads do not 'drop in' on my car, because my drop spindles are on opposite sides and inverted from where they would normally be. They're behind and below the discs, meaning I have to load the pads in from below, not slot them in from above. It wouldn't seem to make that big of a difference, but for some reason, it seems to complicate matters for me -- but I like the difference in handling from the way the car was before that change.

I have been on the SOC FB page with this, but that audience is fairly small. What I'm specifically looking for is a source for those NLA pads. They have a spring-steel clip which resembles an archer's bow, clipped in the middle to a small ear on the top (in its normal orientation) of each pad, off from center, on one side.

Mine have been on the car for so long, not only are they obsolete, but the steel has lost its ability to stay clipped (in the case of one pad). I located the clip, pressed between the rotor and the pad it was supposed to live on, but only after it made the rotor look like a vinyl record with about five songs on it.

CB is perfectly willing to sell me replacement calipers, pads included, for $62 per side, and I'm certainly willing to spend the money for the right stuff, but the guy on the phone could not tell me whether those new-model parts would be interchangeable with what I have. He said they only sold Type I brake kits (which more or less match that description).

So. With the new master cylinder installed (I had to buy two, also TRW/Varga, also obsolete, also non-matching -- just because I broke an inlet stem with an old hose), every bit of the braking system R&Red and clean and ready to go, I need a one-cent nail and have to potentially buy a foundry.

I am on the horns of a dilemma; spend $600 for a full replacement setup, $120 for the calipers and pads and not know if they'll work, or try to find just the pads and/or spring clips I actually need. The system (holistically) works just f***ing fine, and I don't want to go whole-hog and spend money I could use elsewhere (Jeni's Mustang, our fire truck, et cetera), when I don't need to.

Anybody got a source? Or maybe four of 'em lying around? Or one stupid little clip they'll trade for a pie (who remembers THAT?)?

Any lovin's good lovin ... 'cuz right now, he's grounded until further notice.

 

Hoopty 08 16

new mc 08 16

jackstands 08 16

2007 JSR 2.4-L Mutt Speedster

The Hoopty

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Last edited by Cory Drake
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I can only offer what I would do:

Carpet bomb it.

Buy the brake kits, the calipers only, and the pads only from CB. It's not a 914 set-up (you just want it to be).

The pads they have will likely work. If they do: most excellent-- just box up what you don't need and return it

... or not. Having some spares from 10 years ago would have eliminated this as an issue. Special stuff is going to be obsolete, so I always buy 2 or 3 of whatever it is I might be needing down the road. Get an air-tight plastic tote, label it well, and don't forget where it is. Your future self will applaud your past self for being so proactive.

If the pads don't work, you've got the new set-up AND the spares you'll need for the job in the future. You'll say, "I was a freaking GENIUS in 2016" 10 years from now when CB is belly up and nobody ever heard of Varga because Brazil decided to have another coup and return to it's rightful place as a 3rd world country.

At that point, $600 will look pretty cheap.

Just a shot in the dark here... But when you mentioned a bow like clip I thought of the following....

Side note--- any pictures of your pads/clips would be helpful.

Back to my thought.... i remebered many of the Varga disk kits used 1975-1980 rabbit pads and caliper hardware.  Does your clip/pads/ hardware look like this?

if so, SoCal imports, or Anywhere they sell 1980 rabbit pads will have this hardware kits.

imageimage

image

Some 1975-1980 aftermarket rabbit pads have a slightly different profile, but do come with their specific clips.

image

 

Also, Cip1 does continue to sell some of  the Varga disk kits...  when they moved they found a bunch of old new inventory, which is now listed on their site.  They can confirm what pads work with their type 1 and typ 3 Varga disk kits/calipers.  They tend to be very knowledgeable when you call their tech support linen ops this helps... It's just a stab in the dark.

good luck,

Luis

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Alan Merklin posted:

How many times have we did a great job flaring a brake line only to discover the threaded thingy was , left off the line ? 

 

The probability is in direct correlation to the quality of the flare. If the flare is cruddy, the nut is almost assuredly on. If the flare is oh-so-fine, the probability that it's been left off is much, much higher.

Last edited by Stan Galat

So on a semi-related note, Kathy and I were headed over to Chris' the other day and decided to take the Speedster.  Hop in, get set, hit the key and......Click!, Click!, Click! and that's it.

Left it there with my big battery charger on it, merrily humming away, and the next day it was fine.   It always seemed to be OK after having been driven for even a short while, but seemed to go dead when it was on a trickle charger.

The alternator light never comes on, and when I checked the charging voltage when running it was 13.52 - that seemed fine.  

At first, I blamed the battery terminals (they were clean, but much cleaner, now...) then, the connections where I plug in the trickle charger (it has its' own plug), then the small trickle charger itself (it seemed OK, but I moved to a different, although same type, trickle charger) and finally, after checking battery voltages over several days under trickle and non-trickle conditions, I think I found the problem.

I used an A/C extension cord hanging from the ceiling (same as used for the garage door opener).  If I plug the trickle charger into the inside (closest) position on my extension cord, it seems to work fine.  If I plug the same plug into the outermost position on the extension cord, I sometimes get Bupka, unless I maneuver the plug around until it actually connects.  Even then, there was no promise that it would stay connected, and when AC power was removed, the charger sat there and somehow drained the battery over several days.  Who knew?

It's a pretty, high-visibility-orange and beefy conductor extension cord that I used to like.  

Now it's part of "Single-Stream-Recycling Heaven".

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