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Terry,
The information I was given was to call them at 207-698-7646 and ask for the sump plate with drain plug for the CB Thin Line Oil Sump for a VW. It isn't on their web site menu. I spoke with Bob and he knew exactly what I was talking about... OR you could email them at
sales@mainelycustombydesign.com and ask about the plate. It just makes sense,to me, to be able to change the oil with one bolt rather than mess with the 8 hex nuts and remove the whole plate.
Call Mainley direct, give the specs on your sump cover (or attach the photo to an e-mail w/ appl. info) and try to buy gaskets direct.
http://www.mainelycustombydesign.com/engine_components.html#oilsump
(tell em your an SOC member and you'll give 'em some referrals and good words-that'll probably help)
Oops sorry-I guess a direct attempt has already been tried!
If its items 1 & 3 in this link, should be readily available:
http://www.vw-resource.com/oil_leakage.html#plate
William,

You can drill and tap the CB sump plate and it's been done successfully however, some have tried and failed thus causing them to buy a new sump plate. A portion of the CB plate needs to be milled perfectly flat to remove part of the cooling fins and provide room for the drain plug and mating surface. Once that's done, then you drill and tap a hole in relatively thin material that doesn't provide much material for the pipe threads. Where "SOME" have failed (not everyone) is that the aluminum plate is thin and it has cracked.

Another problem is that once it's drilled and tapped, it may not seal properly unless you can find the right kind of drain plug with a sealing washer.


For those of you that have been successful in drilling and tapping, I'm not saying that EVERYONE will have problems or that EVERY CB sump cover will fail, just that "IF" it does crack or won't seal then you're stuck buying a new plate

Last week, Bob Kelly and I spoke extensively on this subject. I've installed several of the Mainly by Design sump plates and they are made well and seal properly. My suggestion was to shell out the money and buy the manufactured plate and be done with it. Sometimes the work involved to modify something isn't worth the expense of the completed product that you are able to purchase.

Some people that have been successful will fault what I'm proposing but after many years of 'tinkering' with these cars, VW engines, and related options, I've found that """sometimes,""" it's just easier to buy the product rather than modify it.
The Mainely stuff is NICE. I want one of their wide-5 balance adapters.

However, my CB thinline sump is the filter kind. So I have to remove the cover to clean it anyway. Even if you have no filter, not a bad idea to clean the sump plate when you change the oil. Mine is installed with bolts, remove two or three and let it drain for a while. When most of the oil is gone I totally remove the plate, clean everything, and let it drip overnight.

I thought about milling, drilling, and tapping my cover. If I do it, I will take it to a welder and add some extra material where I drill and tap, if that's feasible. It's not that bad to change the oil the way it is, so I'll probably leave it alone.
Lane,
Do you need one?
Let me know and I will send it on as soon as I get it. CB is a little slow, no shipping notice for me yet and I ordered it last week. So I can most likely get it to you early next week.

Marty, When I bought my thermo dipstick I remember seeing threads on using shrink wrap to thicken the end. There was also mention of the different diameter of the dickstick tubes in type 1 engines. Mine fit fine but if yours is a little loose try shrink wrap.

Dave
If your intention is to install the new sump plate and leave it there until the engine is rebuilt then you don't need a gasket. I've been installing them, stock and other brands of sump plates for years without a gasket. I thoroughly clean the mating surfaces with Brake Clean then apply a bead of 3 Bond or Orange Higt Temp Silicone, tighten it up and forget about it.
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