CB Thinline sump installation

Bob,

When I put my sump on I used Locktite (blue) on the studs that held the sump to the  bottom of the case. I used the paper gasket thing and used a liberal amount of Gasgacinch prior to mating the two parts together.

I don't recall what torque settings I used. I just firmed everything up with a 1/4" inch socket set and held it close to the head so as not to over tighten anything.

I used the Jaycee cover as well. I installed the original screen and a longer oil pickup tube to screen out larger pieces of anything before it gets to the oil pump. I used a waterproof silicone grease on the O-rings and it seems to help. I did not put Loctite on the bolts holding the Jaycee plate in place so I could remove it to clean the screen. There should be 8 small O-rings and one large 0-ring if you're using the Jaycee X sump cover and 6 O-rings if you're using the smaller plate. I used the waterproof silicone grease on all of the O-rings.

I have had zero issues with mine and so far no leaks. If I did it over I would consider using some sort of RTV or whatever self-forming gasket material between the sump and the case. The paper gaskets would seem to me to be the weak point of the installation.

As others would YMMV.

Thanks, Robert. That's pretty much what I thought, but wanted the help of someone with some experience. Thanks again.

The paper gasket works as long as it's coated with some sort of sealant, otherwise oil may weep through it. I would go to the trouble of  pulling the studs (I believe you need to remove them for longer units anyway) and screwing bolts through the engine side so the studs can't come loose, and I've heard of guys tapping the bottom of the engine for 7mm hardware for a more solid connection. Torque for 6mm nuts on the stock strainer plate is only 5 or 6 lbs, for the engine/sump connection you can increase it a little with the 6mm hardware, but don't go crazy. Al

Thanks, ALB!

Very nice write up if you care to read.
http://www.volkswebbin.net/top...l-sump-installation/

Permatex Gray...

Yeah, pretty much....

You're welcome, BobG!

Thanks, Jeffrey. Informative article!

EDSNOVA:

Pardon my stupidity, but where are you using the Permatex Gray?

BobG posted:

EDSNOVA:

Pardon my stupidity, but where are you using the Permatex Gray?

Between the engine and sump, with no paper gasket.

Or, on both sides of those wicked-thin paper gaskets (mostly because I don't trust them).

Most oil change gasket sets made these days are cheap, and the circular paper/cardboard pieces aren't coated, and they weep. Gordon's right; they need to be sealed with some sort of non-hardening material. I've heard of guys coating them with spray can lacquer and even hair spray. Al

Didn't come with any gasket for the mating surfaces between the oil pan and the new sump. I'll go with the Permatex Gray. 

Thanks again.

What about Permatex 598 Silicone for the 0 rings on the JayCee sump plate? Anybody use this? It is indicated for use where there is contact with oils.

Permatex Gray is recommended by the Subester boys because, reportedly, it has less of a tendency than the Black and other Permatex colors to peel off inside the engine and clog oil passages (or water jacket). When I took my Soob apart I found bits of what looked like licorice inside the crank case... So.

Curil T

Once you try it, it's hard to go back.

Curil T is good stuff, even though my spell-check fights me when I type it.  I used it when I built my engine.  It's a bit harder to find around here than Permatex Gray, but NAPA can get it (and the old guys behind the counter will recommend it).  

The only thing I would NOT recommend on a sump or drain plate is that so-called "Aircraft Sealant" or "Aircraft Lacquer".  Comes in a little short bottle with one of those cap-brushes inside.  Sure, it seals things up tighter than a bulls butt in fly-time, but if/when you want to get the things apart, forgetaboutit!  You'll have to blast to get them apart.  

The same thing goes for Red Glyptal.  Yes, it seals up to beat the band, but the two surfaces you seal with it become one...REALLY one, and it's super-hard work to get them apart later on.  Besides, even though they say it can be used on engine blocks, it was designed as an electrical insulator with low-arcing properties.  How much high voltage will you be running through your engine case??

Curil T....... where have I seen this stuff before. Went through the box of extra parts, etc. that came with the car and lo and behold, a never opened tube of the stuff in the original box, purchased by the PO from Bugformance for $14.96. Has to be at least six years old but I opened it and it looks perfect.

Done, installed with blue Permatex and the Curil T.

I gotta get a lift, this Speedster yoga is tearing me up.