Change Cmc 5 gauge dash to authentic 3 gauge VDO

Sure - Most difficult part is reducing the size of the holes in dash and filling in ones not used.  Not hard just messy as the fiberglass surface has to be roughed up and tapered a bit so new fiberglass cloth can applied, then use gorilla filler, sand and repaint.

 

None of the VINTAGE senders will work with the new repro gauges so remove them too and sell them off with the old gauges - there is a market for them as some have failed ones (they aren't rare or costly though).  Go with the new VDO repro gauges that Special Edition/Beck-Carey Hines commissione.  They are dependable and the Speedo is GPS driven so tire size doesn't matter (doesn't use the olde front drivers hub driven cable).  SE sells the matching senders too.  Not sure about the gas sender matching though.

 

I'd call Beck directly but here they are listed on ebay -

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ge...566e2959&vxp=mtr

 

you arent by chance the guy i talked to at the Great Canadian VW show this weekend?

I remember a couple of people on here who have made the 5 to 3 gauge conversion - a terrific winter project.  If no one else steps up to help, private message Gary (Flat Four Fan) because I know he either just finished, or is in the last throes of finishing, his conversion.

Mango- no it wasn't me. I just picked my speedster up last Saturday and I LOVE IT 

 

 

Gordon- I appreciate the heads up. I am so new to this I am almost afraid to attempt it myself 

To expound on what Wolfgang said, most of us have cheaper replica gauges that are actually bigger in diameter than the original.

The newer, better, VDO ones that Carey has are the correct smaller diameter.

So, that's a key decision before you start cutting new holes after re-glassing.

> On Aug 25, 2015, at 5:24 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

Tom,

You would know best, wasn't there a plan for a "filler" ring, for the new VDO's?  I'm not using the correct terminology.

Art

Art,

There is a rubber ring that works & looks pretty good.

However, if you're cutting new holes, best to cut the smaller size.

> On Aug 25, 2015, at 5:42 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

Yep, of course that makes sense!

 

 

Art

What about something like this? I was thinking the medal plate right over the old holes and have the plate cut to the exact VDO specs?

Or do you guys think it will look tacky?

The only thing that matters is what you think. Everybody's Speedster is unique & I love them all.....& mine the best :-)

It all depends on what look you're going for.

> On Aug 25, 2015, at 7:44 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

Welcome to the madness! Well it certainly can be done while it won't be original looking an aluminum plate or stainless steel type of plate might look ok ... a guy from the 60's could always cover it in some sort of tuffed Leather I have seen some custom american cars with all sorts of dashboards Ray 

I like that 550 Spyder look -- especially if it was machine tooled.  Follow thru and do the engine compartment the same way.  The fiberglassing is not that difficult though.

 

 

Carey's rubber filler rings won't fill gap of the oversize CMC "VINTAGE" gauges - plus there are configured wrong.  

The stainless is one idea.  You could also go with carbon fiber, black ABS plastic like the dash on most cars is made of, or any number of other materials.

 

It's your car, make it truly yours. 

My intention is to make a cover plate out of Lexan or something similar, cut holes then paint to dash color.  This way the plate could be removed to access behind the dash wiring.

 

Frank, this is a Speedster. There's something inherently wrong about making anything that needs servicing easy to get at.

 

If you don't have to twist your back, your neck, or your wrist into a position it wasn't intended to assume, or if you can reach something at the same time that you can see it, then the design has been modified in a way that is obviously not period correct.

 

 

Krazy Greek, that might look okay...good even.  It will depend on how it's finished and how it matches the color of your dash.

the dash is a fairly small area to repaint.  mask off the cabin and tape at the door seal edge.

 

hardest part would be prep and removal of dash electronics.

 

the actual fiberglass fixing and redrilling is not hard at all.

 

get some fiberglass mat and resin at a plastics place.

 

wet some mat with correctly mixed resin.  if you have never done this before - make sure you do the right amount of hardener.  too little and it won't dry/cure.  too much and it cures fast and gets HOT!

 

apply wet mat behind all the holes you want filled.  apply one layer.  first is hardest.  let it cure.

 

apply another layer or wet mat

 

then use short strand fiberglass and fill in 90% of the hole.  make sure you push it in very well to get it in all the mat and hole edges

 

leave some room for filler on top.

 

sand edge of holes to a bevel

 

fill with high quality filler.

 

sand with 100 grit

 

fill with liquid putty.  this stuff is soooo awesome and sands amazingly.

 

prime, sand 150, prime, sand 400, prime, sand 600

 

paint base - two coats.  light, then medium heavy.  fix any runs and redo this step as nessesary

 

paint clear - two coats. light, then medium heavy

 

wet sand with 800 and polish

 

 

 

i did this exact setup (minus painting) on my speedy when i converted to beehives.  no issues whatsoever

 

Mitch,

I know right? I have such a tight rats nest of wiring behind my dash I think it might be an insult to rats to say so.  I thought it might be a good idea to make life a tiny bit easier and save the pretzelization you speak of for the younger in the crowd.....

What size engine is in it? I can certainly help you spend a "bit" of money there!

 

The dash- Of course, repairing the dash and cutting for original style gauges would be the most authentic (and time consuming- Mango gives a great overview of the steps involved) way to go about it, but these are plastic cars, don't have P vin #'s and authentic doesn't count for crap if you don't care. Do what you want. If you decide afterwards that you don't like the machined plate, you know what you're doing this winter....Al 

Krazy Greek,

I did something like you suggested with the metal plate, but for a different reason.  I had a lot of gouges, scratches and chips in the fiberglass around my gauges and did not want to glass, bondo or repaint at this point.  Looked like someone cut the holes with a hammer.  I got some carbon fiber-look contact paper and put it on the dash area at the gauges.  Works for me for now.

That looks damn good!

> On Aug 31, 2015, at 9:30 AM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

Craig,

I like that look.  I noticed your Bosch or Bosch type ignition switch on the dash but your keys hanging from the normal VW column positon.  Thats about the state mine is in  right now.  I haven't had the time to re-wire and get that new switch working yet.

Craig-

 

That's excellent. Great look.

The dash ignition switch is the one that starts the car.  The column keyed switch is just the steering lock.  Semi-good theft protection.

Heck of good idea Craig. Too bad I dumped my column lock, after I put in the dash key.

 

As long as you don't forget to unlock your steering before you fire the engine up, with the dash ignition switch, and take off at a rapid pace.