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Stan was just talking about "a Model T replica" above. Greg is kind of doing this. He makes what people want, in typical color combos, then sends them to Roy who sells them. You know, the OE look narrow-body cars that sell easily and for good money.

When I was considering building a coupe, I spoke to Greg. I simply wanted a better suspension, not on a pan. Greg wasn't ready to replace the pan/suspension. Greg doesn't have a world-class chassis designer on staff.

Carey hadn't started his coupe journey yet. But Carey happens to have Chuck Beck, one of the most talented engineers/chassis designers out there.

This was all before Greg started building Speedsters(and then moved back to Hawaiian Gardens), so a while ago. He was crazy busy then, crazier busy now.

I don't know for sure, but I think that the Vintage Spyder mold changes were done when the old molds were simply worn out, and new ones were needed.

Stan is right: there is no good time to make changes. You make small evolutionary changes as you go, just like Porsche does.

Last edited by DannyP
@DannyP posted:

Beck Spyders use LONG rear axles, and require more backspacing. Get in touch with them, I know they use 5.5" rear wheels.

We stopped using long axles 15 years ago.  About the same time that the 15x5.5" wheels with a 50mm offset became NLA.

@Lane Anderson @550 Phil  No, we use 1.25" narrowed trailing arms on the speedster and the body is standard.  There are several limiting factors that would require body changes if one wanted wider rear tires on a speedster.  A pie cut could be done as a "one off" however any time you do a one off modification like this you run the serious risk of it showing up years down the line.  It's just the nature of a secondary bond.   IT won't always happen, and we're good at what we do, but there is that risk.  The "proper" way would be to make a plug, make it perfect, make a mold, but now you're talking about a 6 figure adventure PLUS the cost of the car.

My front end is full 911 the rear is not so I am about to change the rear axles and insert a hub centric ring to lock in the Fuchs .  
Some have used 944 hubs which have hub centricity build in but are wider and take up more space.

im-6 have full 911 rear have 2 inches longer in wheelbase and have pie cuts .



BTW. Thanks for the update on the manufacturer process Carey

Last edited by IaM-Ray

"...but now you're talking about a 6 figure adventure PLUS the cost of the car."

I'm gonna hazard a guess that Phil might be happy with the standard body.

Believe it or not my 356 with the Type 4 will be my “slow” car. My Spyder will still be able to run circles around it. Spyder spins to 7500 rpm’s in first 3 gear in the drop of a hat. I just want my 356 to pull hard at speed. I’ll probably even skip an LSD. Btw, I don’t even know does a 901 or 915 Porsche 5 speed have an LSD?  Or if they don’t can you even use one. Either way I hope to go with a standard 901 like I had in my 914. In my Spyder I’m constantly shifting between 2nd and 3rd. Will likely be the same in my 356.  I really like the 901.

Thanks Carey. My first Spyder had a 2109cc VW engine and no LSD. Honestly it was fun sliding around corners with that one tire spinning and the other planted on the road. My current Spyder has 200hp Suby with LSD. When both of those tires break loose and the rear end starts flipping sides it can get a bit hairy. But obviously it comes in handy when you are just peeling out in a straight line.

It all depends on your wants. I like the original look; and that is a 4-1/2" rim. I swapped the 5-1/2" chrome Mangels that my car came with and had for 16 years (which were in very good shape because they were always waxed) with some silver Chinese steelies that I got on sale for real cheap at LJ Aircooled Engines. They are surprisingly solid and look great, nice finish on them too and they are more resistant to rust.EB8EBD6D-FE81-4489-8203-72DF690A3285

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