Checking oil level

There are a lot of variables at play, here, so let's tackle them one at a time:

"I noticed a bit of oil on the bottom of the case just aft of the sump plate, and a bit on the tin directly below the crankshaft pulley."

The engine is designed such that there really isn't a "seal", per sè, behind the crankshaft pulley and it is expected that a little oil will seep out there.  If you look closely at the tin below the pulley, there should be a little lip at the bottom to drain the oil out onto the ground (gasp!) - Those VW designers thought of everything!

That said, larger engines develop more crankcase internal pressure and tend to push oil out of every opening it can find, so an adequate breather system is a must to relieve that pressure.  Show us your engine bay and we'll all offer suggestions on proper breathers and whether yours fits muster or not.    

Lastly, I don't know how your external cooling/filter system is plumbed in, so I can't know if it will drain back into the sump or not when stopped - some do, some don't.  Yours looks about a half quart high so it might be draining some back.  

Get it running for a few minutes, drive around the block, then shut it down and immediately check the dipstick.  If it's still way up over the "full" mark then it's simply got too much oil in there and you can drain a little out at the drain plug.  Typically, we suggest a level mid-way between low and full on the dipstick, not way up towards full, but having it at full on break-in oil is OK.  If it drops down under the "full" mark after driving it, then it should be OK - it'll pump the excess oil out into the cooler/filter when started.  At least that's the theory, here.

Anything else looks weird, be sure to speak right up.

Gordon

I have a Spyder with the backasswards engine, and the original dipstick, so checking the oil can be “problematic.” Consequently, I always check my oil with the engine cold, but I don’t have any extraneous features, just a (semi)stock Type IV doghouse oil cooler.

Before I quit checking my oil warm, I never noticed a difference between hot/cold oil levels.

I had a car, can’t remember which one, that said right in the owners manual to only check the oil at operating temperature. It was either my 911 (dry sump) or my RV with a 6 cyl Cat diesel.

Oil expands with heat, so yes Dave, the 911 should be checked WARM. Also, there's a lot more expansion, since the system holds at least 10 quarts of oil.

FYI, Spyders are not backasswards. The FIRST Porsche was mid-engine. All the rear engine cars are backwards!

@Jon T if you have a remote cooler and/or filter, there can certainly be some drain-back. When Gordon referenced between the marks, this is especially so if you have a sump extension bolted to the bottom of the engine case(most of us do). In that case run the oil level to the BOTTOM mark, engine hot, directly after shutdown.

I know Danny. I was throwing a bone to our Speedster brothers.

FWIW, in all my “doing my own research” wrt oil coolers, filters, etc. I remember reading about “anti drain-back valves.”  Never paid much attention as it wasn’t something I needed.

Are they in coolers, filters, or thermostats? Can’t remember.

@DannyP posted:

FYI, Spyders are not backasswards. The FIRST Porsche was mid-engine. All the rear engine cars are backwards!

Not that anyone cares, but actually the first cars Ferdinand Porsche designed and built (1898) were BEVs. His first hybrid design was produced about 12 years later but both designs were unable to compete with ICEs. He was always ahead of his time.

Right out there with the “Baker Electric”, built in Cleveland, Ohio around the same time.

https://www.caranddriver.com/f...cle-company-feature/

Detroit Electric had a couple of models about then, too.  They were written up in Hemmings decades ago.

“Clearly, the future was here a long time ago.”

Got a note from Anna at VMC.  She said the oil level should be checked after running the engine for a minute (I took Gordon’s advice and drove around the block), turn off the engine then check oil level.  When I did this it registered right at the full line, maybe a nudge above.  So I think I’m good to go.

VMC does have a YouTube instructional video that covers several basics.  It did not mention the little trick about measuring oil level right after turning off the engine.  Anna said she will try to edit the video somehow.

Thanks all!

In my years of experience keeping oil below the fill line a bit will keep oil leaks to a minimum if any your mileage may vary

@DannyP posted:

@Jon T if you have a remote cooler and/or filter, there can certainly be some drain-back. When Gordon referenced between the marks, this is especially so if you have a sump extension bolted to the bottom of the engine case(most of us do). In that case run the oil level to the BOTTOM mark, engine hot, directly after shutdown.

@Alan Merklin posted:

In my years of experience keeping oil below the fill line a bit will keep oil leaks to a minimum if any your mileage may vary

I know that with some people, when running a deep sump the practice is to fill to ½ quart or a little more short of full, but don't forget the camshaft and lifter faces are splash lubricated so I'd be wary of  running with the oil level below (or even too close to) the fill line.

@Alan Merklin posted:

In my years of experience keeping oil below the fill line a bit will keep oil leaks to a minimum if any your mileage may vary

I’ve heard that, too. Which is why I figure right on the line, cold, is perfect. Although it hasn’t seemed to slow the leaks down.