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Gently massage the rubber a few inches at a time with a heat gun on low.  A hair dryer on high might get it to move but it'll take a looong time.  Don't get too aggressive with the heat or the rubber will blister - you just want to warm it up about a foot at a time and then pull it straight away, rather than trying to slide it along the length of the aluminum piece.

Chris: Were you able to get the bumper aluminum deco ends to lay flat against the FG bumper?  In past builds, I've used a block of wood and a C' clamp to draw the aluminum down, occasionally a small gap would remain. My fix, a self-tap 5/15" hex head screws every 2" ( do a small pilot hole ) it draws down and the heads are hidden by the rubber deco strip. I used a cut off wheel to remove the screws extending through the back side of the bumper.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

@El Frazoo, yes, my brother was a great help.  And yes, I did give him the task of drilling into beautiful paint on new fiberglass.  In my earlier life, I was a big air cooled guy, but he was much more serious.  He spent three and a half years in Zuffenhausen in the late eighties, early nineties as an apprentice at Porsche.  But he could only be here one weekend so now I’m drilling holes in my rocker panels and bumper.   The CV joints and axles are EMPI, came in the hardware kit from Carey at Special Editions.  And yes, Saranac is a great NY beer.  Unfortunately I cannot find it in SC.

I recently had "some issue" with my left-side drive line, documented in another thread.  Long sad story having to do with loose castle nut.  Anyway, "while I was at it" I decided the CV joints needed to be replaced. I was not sure that the ones there (EMPI) were OK or not, but upon removal, it seemed to me not everything was kosher.  I shopped around and found a pair (Chinese made, but AB-SO-LUTELY, gauran-fking-teed to be better than OEM, finest possible materials used, exceeding all specs, and etc. etc.)  And a very favorable price where some other suppliers cost more and were "out of stock". Upon receipt, I had to admit they looked pretty good and I can say they turned very smoothly by hand vs. the EMPIs I took off.  So that was a hard lesson learned: those damn castle nuts need to be tight as can be, plus another 25 ft-lbs -- 250 is not too much, they say.  And retourqued from time to time as a maintenance item.  Just so you know.

PS and BTW: your car is gorgeous.

@DannyP yes, we are transplants from NY to SC.  I grew up in Duchess county, we raised our kids in Orange County in Cornwall, NY.  We love the Adirondacks, spent many Summers camping up there. We still visit on a regular basis as one of our daughters lives outside Albany.

Down here we spend a lot of time on the “upstate” of SC, that is the Northwest corner of the state.  Great driving roads there and into Western NC.

Another update.  Followed Alan’s advice and the front bumper trim went on much easier.



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Installed a floor jack in the spare tie well with leather straps to hold the tool kit.  Also added bracket and belt for spare tire.

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Major milestone today, it is now registered and on the road in SC!

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I would like to thank everyone on this site who offered great advice and support, it is much appreciated.  Special thanks to Carey and the team at Special Edition for the great support.  And last but not least, thanks to @Lane Anderson with all of the assistance getting the engine installed.  

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