should these be torqued to 7-13-18 ft lbs just like the stocks?
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The manufacture / supplier recommendation is where I’d start…, that aside.
The cylinders are Steel or Aluminum
The motor is for drag / turbo application
The dia. of the Studs is X
The engine case does or doesn’t have case savers
Do you see a trend here; I don’t quite have enough rope to hang myself with yet..,. A little more please. 
Sarcastic David / dd-ardvark
Frankly, unless you have a certifiable reason to do otherwise I'd stay with the stock torque. A few months ago I popped a stud going for 23. It sucks, really big-time.
I had no reason to push it past stock. I don't know what I was thinking at the time but I think I'll never do it again!
The stock original equipment (or factory replacement) studs are engineered to expand at the proper rate with cast iron cylinders and work quite well in all motors except heavily boosted situations. Chrome moly is only needed when boost pressures get to the point where factory studs are still stretching and the heads are lifting off the cylinders.
For proper torque values, the company that sold them to you should have that info. If they don't (or the answer is " just do them up like stock") then you are dealing with someone that hasn't done the r&d and is only interested in your money. Companies making lousy copies (inferior materials, poor machining) of parts overseas that were originally engineered properly by the inventor to equal or surpass the quality of the factory part it replaced (and usually made in the USA, employing local people), and then selling them cheaper (and making way more money than the originator of the part) will be the death of VW hotrodding.
What are you building that you feel you need chrome moly studs?
18 ft-lbs for 8mm c/m head studs. The chromoly studs themselves can take more torque but you don't want it because the case can't take much more and the lower expansion rate means they're effectively torqued higher than stock when warm anyway.
Wow…, I’m still waiting on that rope to hang…, sorry I mean info to help you with, like:
Is the motor a type 1 early 1300-1600cc 10mm stud, late 1600cc 8mm, 1200cc 10mm, original 356 motor, type 4, water cooled type 1, HAPI aircraft block w/8mm or 10mm studs converted for street use, suby something another or what?
O’yea, if this an aftermarket type 1 Aluminum block, by Scat, Autocraft, Empi?
I’m sure you get the need more info thing. Please
David / dd-ardvark
It is OEM type I with 8 mm studs.
Thanx for the replies by the way.