Clicking noise & car won’t start

JustinN posted:

I just bought a ‘93 Intermeccanica and am sorting out some gremlins. My big issue at the moment is that there is a loud clicking noise when I turn to the ignition to “ON” position. Furthermore, when I turn the key to “START,” the car turns over but won’t start. I had the battery checked out and it passes with flying colors.

Any advice? Thanks in advance!

What part of Florida are you in ?

Sarasota

Justin,

The clicking noise you hear is likely the starter solenoid, complaining about getting low voltage from the battery.  If your battery is good, as you say, then next step is to inspect the connections between the battery and the starter.  Even if you battery shows 12.8+ volts, poor connections can cause a voltage drop as current flows to the starter.  Corroded, loose, or dirty battery terminals are the usual culprit, but starter connections can also become corroded.  There are youtube videos to help with the diagnosis.  Best of luck and please keep the group informed as to the fix.  A volt/ohm meter or multimeter is an inexpensive tool for electrical diagnosis.

Thanks, Jim. The battery terminals were clean, so I will have to check the starter contacts next. One question though: why would the starter solenoid chirp when the key is in the ACC position? I would have thought that the solenoid wouldn’t come into play until I turned the Key to START???

***I meant ON, not ACC

If this is a new problem, you may have a worn or exposed wire or terminal end making improper contact through your ignition switch, or a switch that has failed.  Electrical gremlins usually have simple explanations, but they can seem mysterious prior to diagnosis.  A competent auto electric shop should be able to diagnose your problem easily.

Do you have an electric fuel pump?  If so that would come on in on position.  And it could sound like clicking, or knocking, especially if dry.  If it turns over but does not start as you say, it is either spark or fuel. Make sure you are getting both.

Good catch on the possible electric fuel pump! (See where your fuel pump is located so you can eliminate that clicking - Empi/Facet vibrating pumps are often under fuel tank). 

I hate mechanics that start replacing stuff BUT your parts are 25 years old (and you live in a humid environment) - an ignition switch is $12 and and a good rotary electric gas pump is $60.  You'll pay $100 for 1 hours labor to diagnose.  Both parts are easy for you to replace.  (Avoid sparks and gasoline combos).  Also check all the grounds - as that is often where corrosion sets in (one battery (black one) goes to chassis/frame ground - check that one first). 

Irma didn't give it a bath did it? Salt water has bad effects on wiring.

I was *just* about to say that the clicking noise appears to be coming from the electric fuel pump when SEAG8R commented. As it turns out, I was low on gas. Which sounds idiotic, except that my other, now #1 issue is that my fuel gauge isn’t working!!!

thanks guys! You rock! Sorry to be such an idiot out of the gate here.

btw, I just got the car, post Irma. No flooding happened during Irma and the car certainly wasn’t impacted

Same thing that happened to me this past Carlisle.  The loud clicking noise is indeed the starter solenoid as Jim Kelly said.  I believe you are in need of a new starter.

Day late and a dollar short there, Jack. Read the one above yours.

I think 75% of gas gauges in Speedster don't work or are grossly inaccurate.  Often times it is simply a bad/corroded ground.  The old ball floats seem to fail too or the arms aren't bent to reflect correct level.

Just a personal observation.......   Battery terminal connections that appear pristine can have an oxide film form between the battery post and cable clamp......  Cleaning them until they show bare metal is cheap insurance....  Using a mixture of grease/vaseline ans baking powder when reassembling slows the formation dramatically......

Excerpt from "Tales From The Side Of The Road."..........

And, the connection from the key'd starter switch on the solonoid is very often corroded.  Original VW's had a nice rubber boot over it that does not come with most aftermarket wiring looms. 

As is the grounds to chassis...Glad you found the problem to be a simple fix!

 I couldn't get a fresh motor to fire no matter what........ it only took me two &$@* ! hours to realize I overlooked bolting the transmission to chassis ground strap.

LeonChupp posted:

Just a personal observation.......   Battery terminal connections that appear pristine can have an oxide film form between the battery post and cable clamp......  Cleaning them until they show bare metal is cheap insurance....  Using a mixture of grease/vaseline ans baking powder when reassembling slows the formation dramatically......

Excerpt from "Tales From The Side Of The Road."..........

Also: I had a problem this spring with my cables themselves. The problem acted for all the world like a dead battery, but it tested good. I assumed the positive cable end was not making good contact, so I replaced it. The problem persisted. The negative end looked fine, but I was running out of options, so I cut it off...

to find that the cable itself had oxidized inside the insulation. The insulation was stiff and firm, but full of slimy white powder. I cut it off, stripped back to decent cable, and put a $2 end on, and it worked like a charm.

It's everybody's favorite default, but check the grounds.