Everytime I release the clutch I hear a click. Could it be just a worn spot in the cable end that I can't see or should i just grease that spot?By the way I appreciate the help as I make my way though this wonderful car.
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Everytime I release the clutch I hear a click. Could it be just a worn spot in the cable end that I can't see or should i just grease that spot?By the way I appreciate the help as I make my way though this wonderful car.
Possible causes are numerous....Binding cable worn pivot bushing...
throw out bearing or retaining clip...etc...etc...etc...
If the click occurs with the engine dead, get some help and do some more investigating....locate the area if possible....
Good luck....
throw out bearing or retaining clip...etc...etc...etc...
If the click occurs with the engine dead, get some help and do some more investigating....locate the area if possible....
Good luck....
Clutch tube may have broken a spot weld inside of the tunnel...to locate this, remove the two 13mm shifter bolts and use a small mechanics mirror to see into the tunnel as a helper presses the clutch pedal.
Have a good look at the pedal assembly, too. It could be as simple as some debris on the floor making contact with (or getting stuck in) the pedal.
If you can see the clutch fork sticking up from the the transmission, make sure the cable-end isn't hung up on something, too. Depending on what you're using for a cable, the end of it that comes from the tunnel might have a deformity, there might be a strange bend in the tube that feeds it, or there might be a broken weld like Alan said.
That could indicate the tubing that the cable runs through is dragging with the cable and passing over the broken weld at the end of the stroke.
If you can get underneath your car's front end easily, there should be an access plate behind the front beam about the size of two coffee-table coasters, roughly rectangular in shape. Take the two bolts out of that guy (11 or 13mm, I think) and have a look inside the tunnel with a flashlight. If something's broken in there, you might be able to see it that way. If you can't see it, maybe having someone reach in from outside the car and working the pedal will allow you to watch the symptom happen.
As folks here so often remind me, check the stuff you can see first ... :)
If you can see the clutch fork sticking up from the the transmission, make sure the cable-end isn't hung up on something, too. Depending on what you're using for a cable, the end of it that comes from the tunnel might have a deformity, there might be a strange bend in the tube that feeds it, or there might be a broken weld like Alan said.
That could indicate the tubing that the cable runs through is dragging with the cable and passing over the broken weld at the end of the stroke.
If you can get underneath your car's front end easily, there should be an access plate behind the front beam about the size of two coffee-table coasters, roughly rectangular in shape. Take the two bolts out of that guy (11 or 13mm, I think) and have a look inside the tunnel with a flashlight. If something's broken in there, you might be able to see it that way. If you can't see it, maybe having someone reach in from outside the car and working the pedal will allow you to watch the symptom happen.
As folks here so often remind me, check the stuff you can see first ... :)
Just for grins, if you're not familiar with why there might be a kink in the tube, have a read here:
http://speedster.chriskate.net/shortening.html
Chris Sutton makes reference to the build manuals here on the SOC, and added some photos in this specific article that might help you.
I like the way it's written, but his spelling's a little funky.
http://speedster.chriskate.net/shortening.html
Chris Sutton makes reference to the build manuals here on the SOC, and added some photos in this specific article that might help you.
I like the way it's written, but his spelling's a little funky.
Wow! Just reading about all of these different places to look is making me tired!
One other place to look (and a frequent cause of a "clicking" clutch), may not be the clutch at all, but the termination at the pedal end of the cable. That terminator is a small, rectangular loop which fits over a hook attached to the clutch pedal shaft. When the pedal is depressed, that moves the hook forward, thereby pulling the cable forward, too.
Sometimes, those ends wear funny amd the rectangular loop catches on the hook in such a way that it is pulled at a funny angle, only to let go with a "click" somewhere along the travel distance of the pedal. This clicking release point may or may not be consistent. The only way to see it is messing up is to remove the pedal assembly and take a look, and the way to fix it is to see where the wear points are and correct them with a small, round file, then either re-use the cable (if it still looks serviceable) or install a new one.
Often, too, if the pedal assembly has many, many miles on it, the hook wears a slot into it where the loop attaches, and the clutch pedal actuator shaft needs to be replaced. The newer, Asian knock-offs are of poor quality, so I just put some weld (REAL weld, not "J-B Weld" on the hook and use a Dremel to re-shape it to the original hook shape and re-install.
Bear in mind that, if a new cable is installed on a worn hook, they often "click" when depressed until they either wear in (often takes a few months) or are removed and reworked.
gn
One other place to look (and a frequent cause of a "clicking" clutch), may not be the clutch at all, but the termination at the pedal end of the cable. That terminator is a small, rectangular loop which fits over a hook attached to the clutch pedal shaft. When the pedal is depressed, that moves the hook forward, thereby pulling the cable forward, too.
Sometimes, those ends wear funny amd the rectangular loop catches on the hook in such a way that it is pulled at a funny angle, only to let go with a "click" somewhere along the travel distance of the pedal. This clicking release point may or may not be consistent. The only way to see it is messing up is to remove the pedal assembly and take a look, and the way to fix it is to see where the wear points are and correct them with a small, round file, then either re-use the cable (if it still looks serviceable) or install a new one.
Often, too, if the pedal assembly has many, many miles on it, the hook wears a slot into it where the loop attaches, and the clutch pedal actuator shaft needs to be replaced. The newer, Asian knock-offs are of poor quality, so I just put some weld (REAL weld, not "J-B Weld" on the hook and use a Dremel to re-shape it to the original hook shape and re-install.
Bear in mind that, if a new cable is installed on a worn hook, they often "click" when depressed until they either wear in (often takes a few months) or are removed and reworked.
gn
To see this hook do I have to remove the pedal assembly to see it since it is in the tunnel? Is this why some guys cut an access panel in the tunnel?
Yes, you have to pull the pedal assembley to view the "eye"....And to replace the cable also....
Good luck...
Good luck...