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Do any of you guys have a pattern to cut out the sheet metal that will mate up around the engine cooling tin sheet metal in the engine compartment? This is for a Vintage Speedster, so I am planning to rivet the cut piece/s to the square steel stock that surrounds the engine compartment. Also, I noticed that a lot of people used some kind of foam rubber between engine tin, and compartment tins. What is the best to use??

Thanks in advance,
Mike
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Do any of you guys have a pattern to cut out the sheet metal that will mate up around the engine cooling tin sheet metal in the engine compartment? This is for a Vintage Speedster, so I am planning to rivet the cut piece/s to the square steel stock that surrounds the engine compartment. Also, I noticed that a lot of people used some kind of foam rubber between engine tin, and compartment tins. What is the best to use??

Thanks in advance,
Mike
Mike, most of us use the H-shaped rubber intended for the Microbus engine tins.
I say most of us ... I mean those who, unlike myself, have cars where the engine compartment is where it's supposed to be.
I used to have it ... ;)

As for the tins, I have had very good luck with a pair of tin snips and roofing tin. The last one I did involved using posterboard. I traced the edge of the tins attached to the engine on the posterboard, then used the edges of the same square box you referenced for the outer edges. If you plan on cutting three pieces of tin, you'll do well to have one for each side, going from the front of the engine compartment to the rear apron, and a third piece which makes up the space between them. You'll be done in about three hours, start to finish.

In the photos below, the tins on the green car were made as I just described; the H-channel rubber is not being used on that car. Instead, it's a rubber C-channel, edge trim piece from an RV which has an aluminum channel inside. The aluminum has been crimped onto the tins. To do that, the tins have to be ever-so-slightly bent up or down at the very edge -- about once every six inches or so -- in order to keep the trim piece from coming off over time (due to vibration).

Any piece of decent-grade metal will work. My preference -- what I used on my own car -- is sheet aluminum. Believe me, if I can do it, anybody can.

Welcome to the Madness!

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  • 090708 engine tins
  • 032507 Flat tins III
Easy to make the cardboard templates.
I use black epoxy painted aluminum pcs. available at an enclosed trailer manufacture leaving a 5/8" gap between the aluminum and engine tin work to fit in the H" bus seal.
I've also used a $30 black aluminum dishwasher front panel available at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Rather than rivets, use self tapping hex head screws as they're easier to remove if need be ~Alan
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