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Was driving around last week and felt a slip in the clutch in the pedal. Sure felt like the final strands of a cable going snap. Sure 'nuff the next shift...no clutch. Nursed it 10 miles home with some creative shifting. Problem is I couldn't find a broken cable. I think my throw out bearing shaft/carrier snapped as the arm for the cable to thread thru is not in it's correct position. Crap! Pull the engine for a $10 part.
Moral of the story is: If ya gots your motor out for some reason, make sure you have or put in a stronger aftermarket throwout shaft and bearing...it may save a big headache down the road.
Sure glad it didn't happen during Carlisle.

BD

~WB

 

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Was driving around last week and felt a slip in the clutch in the pedal. Sure felt like the final strands of a cable going snap. Sure 'nuff the next shift...no clutch. Nursed it 10 miles home with some creative shifting. Problem is I couldn't find a broken cable. I think my throw out bearing shaft/carrier snapped as the arm for the cable to thread thru is not in it's correct position. Crap! Pull the engine for a $10 part.
Moral of the story is: If ya gots your motor out for some reason, make sure you have or put in a stronger aftermarket throwout shaft and bearing...it may save a big headache down the road.
Sure glad it didn't happen during Carlisle.

BD
Bummer! And down to the wire for an engine pull before Carlisle, too.

Last one I had fail, it was the hanger for the throw-out bearing - one of the hangers simply broke off where it attached to the actuator shaft and that's all she wrote. Would have been OK, but the shaft was worn/rusted and was a mega-bear to get out of the case!!

Good luck, and see you at Carlisle!!

gn
Bill,
Did you pull the engine yet?
If you did, was the problem the cross shaft?
If you didn't, check the boden tube make sure it's sagging about an inch or so. If the boden tube is a straight shot from tube comming out of pan to the mount on tranny, check that the clutch tube isn't broken.
The clutch tube is the one comming out of Pan(or frame).
It has to be anchored. Common problem with VW's is tube breaking loose... then it pushes into the pan (or frame) and the adjustment goes away (and can't be adjusted until the tube is re-attached and in the correct position.)
If you end up replacing any of the components for the clutch adjusting system, be sure to check and replace (if worn) the clutch hook. That's the shaft and hook that's in the pedal assy. that hooks the clutch cable. It's pinned to the clutch pedal. drive the pin out, replace pedal and hook as necessary, and re-pin.

Greg B
Greg: Every thing with the cable tubes looks good. The arm on the side of the tranny is stuck an inch forward of where it should be(at least as the Bentley manual shows).
I'm just about ready to pull the motor. I have to disconnect two cooler lines and the heater cables and ducts.
I had one he** of a time getting the carb mounting nuts off. I could barely get a wrench on the ones next to the shroud. Are you supposed to use silicon sealer on the carb to manifold gaskets? I found myself picking crap off the bottom of the carbs. I assume I can drop the motor out with the manifolds still on, right??
It's just as well as I have a nagging leak at the crank pulley I need to rectify. I may do the pushrod-tubes also. Ahhh, what the heck! How long does it take for a 2387 longblock to ship from Cali. Hmmm.

BD
Bill:

I never use silicon sealer on manifold-to-carb or manifold-to-head surfaces. It usually doesn't provide any more sealing than the naked gasket does (the gaskets are pretty thick and squishy, anyway) and it's an absolute PITA to get it off later on during dis-assembly (as you may soon find out!) If I use anything on those gaskets, it's just a film of regular old grease on the manifold-to-carb surfaces only (and didn't even do that last time).

I'm pretty sure on a CMC you can get the engine out with the manifolds still on, but it's going to be really tight. Better, still, if you can pull the manifolds, too. I make up some cardboard intake port covers (same dimensions as the manifold-to-head gasket, but with no port holes) and just slip them over the studs and hand-tighten the nuts - that will keep any dirt or debris out.

Can you borrow a Sears motorcycle/ATV rolling floor jack? I used one the last time I pulled my engine and it made it SO easy I couldn't believe it. Turned the job into a one-man easy engine pull/install. Can't recommend it enough.

gn

You got a seal at the crank pulley???? All I have is a slinger washer inside the case with no seal - it leaks about as much as any VW I've seen...... 8>)
Gordon: I was thinking the same thing about that sealer(not my doing).
I always thought that they should be dry.

I borrowed a moto jack yesterday from a neighbor. They surely do look like they were made for this job.

As hard as it was to get to the carb nuts to get them off It really looks tight to try to get the manifolds off. It looks like it should clear. I don't know yet what type of pulley I have, but I'm thinking of a sand seal set up if I don't have it already. It's starting to leak down onto the exhaust and smoke.
Depending on what carbs you use, they might or might not clear.

Not many run a single carb but OK, no problems there other than clearance with the engine lid itself.

No problems with 34ICT's complete to the air cleaners. Would fit in-&-out of mt CMC, no problems.

But, not with bigger 44 webbers. I've had to take carb & intakes off down to the heads. Just finished installing the engine and it did not look promising when I pondered stuffing it into the hole?

If I missed the whole point and you meant exhaust, that's never a problem.

and last but not least, FWIW, I never use any sealer on the intake manifold surfaces, just the aluminum gaskets.

Boston Bob E.
I don't use aluminium (spelling for Jim Webby, just in case) gaskets on the intakes, but tend to find the thickest, juiciest gaskets I can and use those dry. Haven't had a leak yet, even though once the manifolds were port-matched to the heads there isn't a whole lot of metal surface there.

Oh, and I can't get my engine in or out without pulling both intake manifolds off (usually with the carbs mounted to the manifolds). It just won't fit, period. Using that motorcycle jack is an absolute joy - it holds the engine perfectly level so lining up the transmission shaft is a snap.

First time I tried to get the engine in, I longed for the days when I was running a DP 1776 with a single Holly 450 in the middle. I wonder if those manifolds are still around?? Think I got that one from EMPI back then....

gn

Boston Bob: is Hebert's still having Thursday Cruise Nites, now that the Hebert sisters have sold the business?? I looked on their web site but no mention whatsoever.........also, will there be a Saturday event like the one we went to last year?? Hebert's is a good central location for Speedsters to meet from all around New England, don'tcha think?

gn
Greg: Found the throw out bearing clips had broken. All this work for $2 worth of clips. After the "Might as wells"(while the motors out) play out it'll be $200+.Gonna freshen up the seals and gaskets and install a sand seal pulley set up, push rod tubes and seals etc. CB Performance is a week behind on getting out parts, so I think I'm gonna work on finishing out the engine compartment also.
As far as a solution, these clips are updated and strenghthened. Mine were the older version.

BD

PS.. Motorcycle jack works great!!
OK, I saw this post and thought; "What the heck is that? I didn't post anything there!" Guess I'll have to blame it on my 1997 vintage Dell Laptop having the hiccups - the little workhorse that it is....

After seeing your post on the morotcycle jack, I got the one Santa brought me out of the box and set it up. They do work nicely, don't they?

Hey! Went to the Ralph Lauren Auto Exhibit with Chris and his friends last night.......I'll try to post a couple of pictures later this evening!! Open Hood (bonnet) Night!! Absolutely Amazing!

gn
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