Clutch cable installation HELP

I haven't done one for a long time, but the procedure was always to pull one end of the Bowden tube free (iIrc I always freed up the trans end) to get the threaded part to pass through it. The threaded piece won't go through the bend in the tube. Al

Unbolt the bracket holding bowden tube.

That would work too...(why didn't I think of that!)

Finally got this problem figured out.  The issue was not with the Bowden tube but rather just before that in the tunnel there is a pretty good turn in the tubing which will not allow the correct length Speedster cable threaded end of the clutch cable thru.  So I shorten the threaded end by 1/2 and got it thru.  Now of course the cable is 1.5 inch too short.  SO I figure this is a no brainer.  Just get a 7MM coupling nut and away I go.  Nope.  Can't find one anywhere.  So I bought a new normal clutch cable and this kit which is a lot prettier than the C-clamp method tho not sure it was worth all the effort 

http://www.cbperformance.com/P...asp?ProductCode=6130

The pics showed where I cut into body to reveal the excessive bend in metal tube in tunnel, the Bowden tube,  close up of Bowden tho does not show rust which made it a bear to get off

Or you could punt and convert to hydraulic.  Might be easier at this point.

x2 on hydraulic clutch.  I don't care what the die-hards say, I witnessed another clutch cable failure @ Carlisle. Some 50's technology I like, some modern technology (like thong underwear on women & hydraulic clutches) I like better :-)

When the pan is shortened for a speedster, if the clutch tube is done right, the Bowden tube is used and aligned correctly , everything is lubed correctly, there are minimal issues, most of the cable problems arise from chaffing against raw metal edges, or using those half assed aftermarket cable shortening "kits"

I agree.  A properly shortened VW clutch cable, running through a properly shortened and dressed cable tube is one hell of a lot simpler than a hydraulic clutch.  The failed cable that Cory and I replaced at Carlisle was due to improper angle of the clutch cable tube (too steep an angle exiting from the pan) chafing against the cable as it moved back and forth.  Re-working the tube so that it doesn't chafe took about 10 seconds with a phillips screw driver as a lever in the tube to make the exit angle correct.  The replacement cable was a proper-length, stainless steel, Marine rigging cable and should last forever, now that the exit angle has been corrected.   And taking 30 minutes to replace a cable every ten years or so is shorter time than bleeding the hydraulic clutch fluid every couple of years.  If you think Hydraulics are the way to go, then go for it.  I just can't see it.

Gordon, r u saying that you were able to lessen the curve in the metal tube in the tunnel just with a Philips driver?  I do not get it.  If it is metal and it is welded to the iinside of the tunnel how in the world can it be straightened?  Where does the extra metal go?  Or r u saying there is some play somewhere.  I will certainly give it a try.  As to this marine cable, I have plenty of cables from my sailboat but I do  not see them fitting.  DId a marine shop make you a cable?

oh, and a brief note.  The first repair on my 993 was the clutch slave cylinder.

When Cory and I swapped that cable in Carlisle, the clutch tube, where it exited the pan, was about 2" long and bent slightly upward just before the Bowden tube slipped over it and that tube was wearing on the downside of the lip as the cable ran through/over it.  Put a screwdriver into the tube and muscled it down to a straighter shot, then slipped the Bowden back over it.  It was welded to the pan with a tack right at the exit with maybe 2" protruding for the Bowden to slip over.  

 

I had my spare clutch cable (which we used) made up by a sailboat rigger in Fall River, MA (Bay Riggers) out of some sailing cable and fittings.  He had a loop fitting that looks just like the VW pedal end and swaged a new cable to the length I asked for.  Any sailing rigger should be able to take a stock VW cable, shorten it and swage on another tranny end for you for about $15 bucks.  I used to look for stock cables at VW flea markets but I have several extras kicking around, now, so don't look as often.  Some of the early VW German bus ones were stainless, I think, too.  Either that or really good steel - they seem to last and last but are really scarce now...

It is all apart now so I will try to muscle that metal tube straighter, but mine has a big hoop in it.  I can't for the life of me figure out why it is that way.  Any ideas?