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Embarrassed to admit this, but I just jammed my old clutch cable inside the tube. It had a bit of fraying so i bought a new one and a new bowden tube. I pulled the pedals off and started yanking the old cable through and when the arm end got about six inches inside the tune it locked up. Pulled it a bit harder and got no love. Tried pushing it back and got no progress that way either. Tried twisting the line tighter & nope. Sprayed a bit of penetrating oil in there but, really, the thing's fulla grease already.

 

I even tried to push it with a steel fuel line I had handy. No go.

 

Any suggestions (other than "don't do that thing you already did"?)

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If you're lucky, you might remove the shift coupler cover and see the cable tubes going by.  The clutch tube is the larger one and 6" in is just about that spot, as is one of the spot welds holding the tube to the tunnel.  Get a pry bar in there and GENTLY pry the tube around while your glove-wearing-assistant tries pulling on the cable.  DO NOT DISTORT THE TUBE!!

 

If that releases it, remember which way you had to pry the tube so you can repeat it when installing the new cable.

 

I've also had occasional luck by inserting a 1/4" or 5/16" wood dowel into the back of the tube where it enters the car frame, but you'll only get about 10"-12" in there til you hit the downward arc of the tube.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I got it done, thanks, everyone.

 

The threaded part was in about 6-7 inches and jammed. The drill-spin did not work but twisted up the cable up at the pedal end, making it harder to work with. I clamped a vicegrip to it and hit it with a hammer for a while and that did nothing. So I took out my 1/4-inch socket extension and jammed it in the other end. It hit metal about two inches from bottoming in the hole.

 

So I hit that with a hammer and the cable bit pushed through pretty quickly.

 

Putting the new one is was fun too. Could not get the threaded part past the burr or bend that held the old one tight. So I tinned the cable about five inches back of it and cut it off. The new cable went in easy without it, and these cables are a good 16 inches longer than they need to be (the old one was looped and clamped).

 

So the new one will be cut and clamped. No biggie. I got a few extra clamps for good measure.

 

I also cut about 3/4 inch off the tube so the bowden will have close to the right bend after moving the transaxle forward an inch and some. Sag was over 2.5 inches with the stock pipe, and it's the shortest bowden they make. I got a little better bend using the old bracket, and the 3/4 inches off the cable tube got the rest of the way.

 

So we're good on clutch.

 

Now working on the throttle cable.

I hate the term "kit car"!!!!  It cheapens the automobile and is to me quite perjorative.  I haven't heard that term in a good while but when I am asked if mine is a "kit car" I say that no, it's not---it was manufactured in a factory in Southern Califirnia.

 

I had my VS in a car show yesterday and won 1st place in the category " 1970 and before imported cars".  #2 was a killer MGA and #3 was a good- looking XKE. My Vintage Speedster kicked their asses---so solly.

 

There was a car that clearly was a kit car, VW powered that got a lot of derisive comment as it arrived--it was a cross between a Lamborghini and an old 70s Ferarri. Poor paint, obnoxipous exhaust note and butt ugly.  Now that-there was definitely one of them-there "kit cars".

Just replaced the clutch cable on my Beck Speedster.  Very simple on the Beck.  There is a panel on the bottom of the car right next to the  pedal assy.  Six bolts & it comes off exposing the clutch cable hook on the pedal assy.  Cut the adjusting end off at the transmission &  the old one is easier to pull thru the tube.  Compressed air thru the tube cleans it well.  Lube the new cablewell, attach the cable eye on the hook and feed the cable thru reattaching it with the wing nut at the throw out arm lever.  Adjust with 3/4 - 1" free play.  Reattach the plate underneath,  drive for a few days & re-adjust if your free play changes due to cable stretch.  Special Edition (Beck) in Bremen, IN supplies a custom made cable the correct length.  No looping & clamping required.  Took 45 minutes from positioning the Speedster on the lifting rack to test drive.

I read your saga on the other website, Ed; you called it just like it is! I'm sure we've all had to go back for something or ruined a piece by modifying it or cutting it too short more than once (at least I have...). I find it amazing that we keep coming back for all this self-inflicted abuse. We'd have so much free time if we didn't do this to ourselves. Keep at it buddy! Al

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