Clutch cable length???

I've got a Vintage speedster on a '69 chassis. Clutch cable broke. Anybody know the correct length (in metric or english) end-to-end?

Also interested to know if this is a difficult repair and what tips anyone that has done it before can offer.

John, call Kirk at Vintags Speedsters he will have your answers. Eddie

Suggest you add an access panel to the crnter tunnel on passenger side. I did this with a hacksaw and a piano hinge. It will alllow cable removal and re-assembly without removing the pedal assembly. Also, I greased my new cable liberally and thereby reduced the clutch pedal effort by about half. I also employed the "universal" cable length. I use a stock length cable (very cheap at any dune buggy shop) and a piece of the original cable at the clutch adjusting arm out back. This gives the needed threaded adjustment feature. JUst connect the two cables using three small cable clamps, all aligned in series with about one inch between them. First time is a bit of trouble like any strange repair. I could probably repeat this task in two hours next time. The secret is the access panel up ront.

David,nice fix. I havn't had the pleasure of doing this repair yet, a picture or drawing of the tunnel door would sure help. Eddie

Splicing (ok, not really spliced, but I can't think of a better word ) sounds like a plan, but I would be hesitant to cut a hole in the tunnel. This is a repair that shouldn't be necessary all that often, I think if you use your method of replacing the cable maybe once every 30,000 miles?
ed

I used a piece of shrink wrap tubing over the splice and clamps to help protect them.

Jerome

The shortened cable I received from VS is 6' 5/2". When I went to put it in I found the tube that runs from the pedel assy to the tube on the back of the tunnel lip had come adrift at both ends. (Incidently I found that a previous owner had cut a door on the passenger side of the tunnel so I've got that whether I like it or not). My question is: has anyone dealt with this problem before? A quick look at the situation leaves me to believe that I will have to cut more holes somewhere to hook up the tubes. I really was pretty disgusted at this point as I haven't driven the car for two months and these $20 parts that have failed are going to take a lot of time to fix ( and time is something I have very little of) ; I'm thinking 1 july for a drive instead of today.
ed

Another Question: Has anyone installed a hydraulic clutch to replace the cable?
ed

The plan to cut a stock cable and splice it with "U clamps" is a short lived fix as the cable is weakened at the clamped area and will eventually break....go with VS Kirks made to length cable and do the 45 minute job once .

Alan Merklin

Well Alan, I agree with you. My old cable didn't really stretch, it was sawing itself in half because of a misaligned bodin tube. The cable from VS should work just fine once I get in in.
ed

ed wrote: The shortened cable I received from VS is 6' 5/2" ???
Does he mean 6' 5&1/2" (77.5")?

in another thread joel wrote: The overall length I get is 76 1/2 inches.

Does anyone know the correct length?

My last VS cable lasted less than a year (started beaking just past the bowden tube) and I'm back to the clamp routine. I want to try the cable from locashracing.

Thanks,
Michael

Sounds like your major problem is that the tube is no longer fixed in place.

I believe the tubes thru the tunnel are welded to clips which are, in turn, welded to the inside of the tunnel. If these weldments have rusted out and broken, you need to find another method of solidly locating both ends of the tubes. The clutch tube should protrude about 1/2" beyond the back end of the tunnel.

Perhaps you could weld the tube to the existing sheetmetal closure at the rear of the tunnel.

At the front end of the tube, you could make an angle clip with a hole in one leg. This leg would extend into the tunnel; the end of the tube would go thru the hole, and be welded there. The other leg of the angle would lay flush on the side of the tunnel and be welded in place.

Any other suggestions from the rest of the gallery?

Good luck

Brian,
Thanks for your help.
I'm not sure that I have a tunnel/tube problem. The cable was breaking between the bowden tube and trans/clutch lever/arm. (I wrote: "started beaking just past the bowden tube")

I'm looking for the end to end length of the shortened clutch cable.
http://www.locashracing.org/products.html

Thanks,
Michael

My previous cable broke just like yours - at the rear outlet of the bowden tube.

Be sure the bowden tube is pointing in the right direction to keep the cable aimed directly at the clutch actuating arm. Bend the bowden, or it's clamps if necessary, to center up the cable. If the cable is dragging against the side of the bowden at the outlet, you are on borowed time! A bit of grease will help also. I reduced the bend in my bowden a bit also - left out a few washers. Everything works just fine, no cable chatter.

David,
The bowden tube angle may have contributed to the failure of the previous (Vintage Speedsters) clutch cable. That must have been resolved when the spliced/clamped cable was reinstalled since I didn't have a spare VS clutch cable. Silly me, I only bought one.

History: Original cable was replaced with spliced/clamped cable (local shop: "to allow more adjustment" ??)
Spliced/clamped cabled was replaced with cable purchased from VS which started breaking/stretching in less than 1 year.
Spliced/clamped cable was reinstalled.
6 years > about to purchase 5th (last?) cable.

David, Brian, anyone...
I'm trying to get the LENGTH of the shortened clutch cable.
locashracing needs to know what length to use...
from their website:
"You say you need a special length clutch cable? We have 'em! You specify end to end length and it's done. No more "u" bolts holding two cut cables together, ours are just like factory. How about this for a warranty, guaranted against manufacturing defects FOR LIFE! If it breaks you get a new one free! Cost is $35, includes shipping in all 50 states."

Thanks again,
Michael

Micheal,

I just looked at my old receipt from the outfit that I use to shorten stock clutch cables. The length I use is 76 1/2" from the very end to the other very end. I have an older JPS Motorsports car, which is very similar to a Vintage car. This cable company carefully removes the clutch pedal end fitting from the new cable, cuts the cable to the proper length and swedges the fitting back on. I paid $15 each to have this done, but that was a while back. You might find someone close by who does saiboat rigging to do this for you.

Make sure the metal tube coming out of the tunnel that the bowden tube fits to is aligned as to not rub the side of the cable, and use plenty of grease.

I would not be hacking a hole in the tunnel near the pedal assembly for access, it's so easy to remove the pedal assembly. And you know the spliced cables are short lived.

Boy, I haven't posted on this site in a long time.

Good Luck, Have Fun,
Joel

Joel,
Thanks for being here. Kirk (& Cathy) told me 77.25" which I passed on to Lester at locashracing.org. I'll forward your 76.5" to them also. The cost of the cable from them is $35 (includes shipping and guaranteed against defects for life or they will send you a new one free).
I appreciate everyone's help and I'll let you know how it works out.
Thank you,
Michael

A few weeks ago, on a pleasant Sunday drive in Carmel I popped my spliced-end clutch cable. I re-spliced on the side of the road only to find that the clutch lever would only
go forward 1/2 inch, exhibiting a solid metal to metal no go feeling with no cable attached.
I drove home in third gear using the starter and ignition at traffic lights.
At home garage I pulled the engine and the fork operated normally.
All parts: cross-shaft, bearing and pressure plate were replaced a year, 10,000 miles
or less ago.
Before I reinstall,what am I missing?

Check the hook on the pedal assembly. That snaps often. If your cable was not hooked up then its not in the tranny and in the pedal assembly.

D

ed,
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=CFC0021&cartid=0401200737086678

I'm waiting for/if the calble fails before I go that route, but it looks like the way to go in your case with a broken boden tube.

Greg B

Greg
Don't have the speedster anymore. Perhaps a coupe a couple of years down the road, If I have one built, the hydrolic clutch will be a definate option.
ed