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Hi All,

I just brought home a kit that I purchased on ebay a couple of months ago. I'm been starting to play around with getting it running and I noticed that the clutch cable seems to be an original length VW cable looped and shortened with a couple of cable clamps. This definitely seems a to be to primitive of a patch for my taste. So what does one do? Does a standard 356 cable work or do I need to get a custom cable from one of the replica mfgrs? It is an older CMC.

Thanks,

Tony
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Hi All,

I just brought home a kit that I purchased on ebay a couple of months ago. I'm been starting to play around with getting it running and I noticed that the clutch cable seems to be an original length VW cable looped and shortened with a couple of cable clamps. This definitely seems a to be to primitive of a patch for my taste. So what does one do? Does a standard 356 cable work or do I need to get a custom cable from one of the replica mfgrs? It is an older CMC.

Thanks,

Tony
Ed,

Should the cable be left straight, under acceleration it would "pull" on the clutch arm and release the clutch a bit, it will will chatter . When the Boden tube is installed properly with the arch in place( washers added to the one end of the tube) this allows for movement and reduces the chance of the cable /clutch chatter. Another example of this, if... a front trans mount is loose and or broken under acdceleration the clutch will chatter and slip.
I was a VDub mechanic for around 5 years in my late teens and early twenties. Remember Rveeco Oil Coolers? I worked for those guys. I must have built dozens and dozens of motors for them. I'm 45 now and had forgotten all about the bend in the bodin tube and the washer/spacers. I think we used to use the real thick washers off the crankcase main bearing studs. I also remember using a hole saw on the pan tunnel to go in and clamp down the metal clutch tube when its welds inside the tunnel broke. I remember the the same kind of clutch chattering happening from that as well.I also remember what a miserable job it was, having to try and reach inside the tunnel and getting my hands all cut up right were the hole saw was used.... Reading stuff on this site is sometimes like an LSD flashback, all the memories come flooding back.
I found a flap cut in my tunnel by some previous owner. It really came in handy. The clutch tube in mine is adrift fore and aft in the tunnel. I put a new cable in and its working fine, no noise and no wear yet. My last shortened cable only lasted about 4k miles as it was fouling the back of the clutch tube where the bodin tube attaches. I had to adjust the clutch every 400 miles or so as the cable lost another strand and stretched more. It was sawing thru the clutch cable tube because the bodin tube was mis-aligned.
ed
When installing a new Bowden tube , be sure the "curve" is per the manual. If it curves the wrong way (can't remember if it was up or down), then the cable exits the tube rubbing on the sleeve and you will be walking home soon. Also, a little grease on the entire cable does wonders for lightening up the clutch. I cut my clutch pedal effort about in half after greasing my new cable. I've had good success with triple cable clamps connecting the original threaded clutch arm end to a new stock length VW cable (well, a little over 5000 miles) with no sign of deterioration.

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