Clutch issues

If it is a new build and you are close enough to the builder to take it back, I would do so.  They'll know what to do to fix it right.

If you're at too far a distance, contact the builder anyway - They usually stand by their product and expect some teething issues and should cover the cost of getting it fixed locally at a good air-cooled VW shop or returning it to their shop for repair.  (I just looked at your profile and since I don't know of Speedster builders in New South Wales, returning it might be moot, right?)

We don't know what your pressure plate is so it's impossible to tell if your pedal should be stiff or not - Just too many variables to consider.  We have seen (and me, personally) some clutch adjust wingnuts that were cast and threaded, rather than forged.  That means that they are soft metal, the threads strip out and they slip up the adjuster stud on the end of the cable.  

If you're determined to fix it yourself, find out what the threads are on the clutch cable adjustment (That big wing nut you've been messing with) and get another, regular nut to fit the threads - Do not use Locktite on the wingnut!.  Adjust the clutch free-play to 3/4" at the top of the pedal stroke and then thread that extra nut on and tighten it against the wing nut as a locknut to prevent it from backing out.  That might cure it for you.  Regardless, report back on your progress......

Good luck!   (and what's your first name? )

@ZOK

You may want to check the Bowden Tube. If you don't see this (pictured) item with the clutch cable running through it, that is an issue. Or if you do see this Bowden Tube it may not have been installed with the proper deflection  (curve) in it. This curve deflection can be adjusted by adding or deducting washers from either end. I believe the proper deflection should be about .75" to 1" inch.

The bowden tube is a flexible conduit for the clutch cable to run through. Now as the engine and transmission move, the length of the cable has the same distance to travel because that distance is controlled by the bowden tube. The tube can bend, or straighten, but the cable has the same distance to go IN the tube.

Hope you find this info helpful.

Finally, if it's not either of the above issues, it could be one of the tabs holding the cable conduit to the inside of the tunnel has broken loose.

@ZOK posted:

Hi guys, newbie here.
just purchased a new build 356 replica and I’m having issues with the clutch adjustment and it’s driving me nuts.

engine, flywheel, clutch, TO bearing a d cable all brand new.
firstly I can’t adjust it to have any free play at all. The pedal has no play and is fairy hard considering. When I do adjust it, drives well for about 10kms or 10-15mins of driving at which point I can feel shifting is getting tighter, starts to crunch and then to the point the car creeps forward when in gear and clutch in all the way.
I then try and adjust more then the pedal gets even harder and the entire process repeats again. The level where I’m adjusted atm you can hear the cable creaking through the tunnel.
Any help will be extremely appreciated

Hi Gordon, many thanks for the reply.
Firstly, my name is Zoran  I can’t return the car to the builder as the build was quite terrible and to trust he will rectify any issues well quite scares me. There are a heap of dodgy issues with it that I am going through and rectifying. At least I know it’s done correctly.

I have a Kennedy (200mm) stage 1 (1600lb) pressure plate.

I don’t have wingnuts as such, there is a 13mm nut that I use to adjust which I then use another as a lock nut.

I have checked the Bowden tube and placed a few washers to get the appropriate curve.

attached are pics of the shortened cable with 2 x cable clamps. It doesn’t seem to be slipping as I have a marker for reference.

@MusbJim posted:

@ZOK

You may want to check the Bowden Tube. If you don't see this (pictured) item with the clutch cable running through it, that is an issue. Or if you do see this Bowden Tube it may not have been installed with the proper deflection  (curve) in it. This curve deflection can be adjusted by adding or deducting washers from either end. I believe the proper deflection should be about .75" to 1" inch.

The bowden tube is a flexible conduit for the clutch cable to run through. Now as the engine and transmission move, the length of the cable has the same distance to travel because that distance is controlled by the bowden tube. The tube can bend, or straighten, but the cable has the same distance to go IN the tube.

Hope you find this info helpful.

Thanks for the reply mate.
When I got the car the Bowden tube was as straight as an arrow. I have adjusted with washers as the above pic. It did shudder upon take off when I got the car so I knew this had to be rectified.

@edsnova posted:

Finally, if it's not either of the above issues, it could be one of the tabs holding the cable conduit to the inside of the tunnel has broken loose.

thanks for the reply.

I have reached into the rear tube where the bowden tobe starts and tried to move that around. seems fine. Cant really get to the front to confirm if its intact apart from cutting a square out?

Zoran wrote: "Can't really get to the front to confirm if its intact apart from cutting a square out?"

Yeah, that's what I had to do when the welds on the cable tube let go at the front and rear of it's length.  If you remove the pedal cluster and disconnect the clutch cable from the pedal arm, you should be able to just see the front end of the cable tube at the rear of the cluster opening.  Reach in there with your finger to check if the tube is still attached to the bracket - It should not move around at all.

I cut a small (4" X 6") rectangle out of the passenger side of the central tunnel, giving me enough room to get in there with a MIG tip and weld the tube back to the bracket.  When it let go, it was like the clutch went totally out of adjustment and would not disengage at all.  

Once the tube was welded back in place, everything worked as it should.  I added a lip around the panel I cut out and screwed it back in, rather than welding it back in place.  That's been handy a couple of times since, when I had to replace the clutch pedal and shaft - I added a bearing to the cable end for smoother action.

BTW: I had a Kennedy Stage 1 pressure plate for years and while it was a bit stiff, it wasn't awful.

A number of us have had trouble using an eyebolt at the transaxle end of the clutch cable.  Those cable clamps are prone to slipping.  You can get a cable of the proper length from Vintage Motorcars:

https://www.vintagemotorcarsin...speedo-clutch-cable/

Or get a stock-length cable close to home and take it to a sailboat rigger and ask them to shorten it and swage on a new end for you.  We can give you the overall length if you choose that route.

The clutch cable appears to be fraying in the loop.

@Gordon Nichols posted:

Zoran wrote: "Can't really get to the front to confirm if its intact apart from cutting a square out?"

Yeah, that's what I had to do when the welds on the cable tube let go at the front and rear of it's length.  If you remove the pedal cluster and disconnect the clutch cable from the pedal arm, you should be able to just see the front end of the cable tube at the rear of the cluster opening.  Reach in there with your finger to check if the tube is still attached to the bracket - It should not move around at all.

I cut a small (4" X 6") rectangle out of the passenger side of the central tunnel, giving me enough room to get in there with a MIG tip and weld the tube back to the bracket.  When it let go, it was like the clutch went totally out of adjustment and would not disengage at all.  

Once the tube was welded back in place, everything worked as it should.  I added a lip around the panel I cut out and screwed it back in, rather than welding it back in place.  That's been handy a couple of times since, when I had to replace the clutch pedal and shaft - I added a bearing to the cable end for smoother action.

BTW: I had a Kennedy Stage 1 pressure plate for years and while it was a bit stiff, it wasn't awful.

A number of us have had trouble using an eyebolt at the transaxle end of the clutch cable.  Those cable clamps are prone to slipping.  You can get a cable of the proper length from Vintage Motorcars:

https://www.vintagemotorcarsin...speedo-clutch-cable/

Or get a stock-length cable close to home and take it to a sailboat rigger and ask them to shorten it and swage on a new end for you.  We can give you the overall length if you choose that route.

Thanks for the above info mate,  I’ll be sure to check the front of the tube this weekend and work from there.

they had an Empi cable shortening kit there before but upon inspection I didn’t like how it looked with some strands already breaking off. I couldn’t see it lasting for long.

I’m just wondering if after say 15mins of driving and heating up is that related to somehow losing adjustment? But if that were the case when it cools I should have clutch.

You may be correct in trying a new clutch cable made to length. 👍

@edsnova posted:

The clutch cable appears to be fraying in the loop.

The fraying would be from the empi cable shortner that was used previously. I didn’t like how it was cutting into the wires.

Why not order a cable that's the right length and get rid of the cable shortener? It's just another failure point. Here is a  LINK   to one from Vintage Motorcars. I'm sure Carey at Beck has them, too.

If you're ging to be checking the tube welds at the pedal end it's almost no extra effort to slide in a new cable.  Pick up one of these while you're at it and make your life easier.

Six Shooter Steel Clutch Adjuster

Thanks Michael for the links.
just to reiterate, this is not a genuine 356 but a replica.
what would be the best way to measure the cable?
I mean for the price it’s a no brainer to just buy a new one along with the adjuster.

@ZOK

Zoran, the last time I needed a clutch cable I bought two from Vintage Motorcars and kept one as a spare.  I just wandered out to the garage and measured my spare cable:

From the top, outside of the loop on the pedal end, to the far end of the threaded stud on the other end is 77 inches or about 195 centimeters.  That's been the length for most, if not all, pan-based Speedsters (Vintage, CMC, JPS, etc.)

@Gordon Nichols posted:

@ZOK

Zoran, the last time I needed a clutch cable I bought two from Vintage Motorcars and kept one as a spare.  I just wandered out to the garage and measured my spare cable:

From the top, outside of the loop on the pedal end, to the far end of the threaded stud on the other end is 77 inches or about 195 centimeters.  That's been the length for most, if not all, pan-based Speedsters (Vintage, CMC, JPS, etc.)

Awesome thanks for measuring that Gordon, I’ll put the order in for a cable and at least eliminate that.