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Clutch Question...

FM Former Member
Wanted to know where the speedsters, in particular the IM, clutch was supposed to engage with respect to its travel. Here is what I have... clutch feels fine, 1/2 to 1 inch of slack, but my problem is that it really doesnt fully engage till it hits the floor. Literally, if I don't have it on the floor I can feel that its grinding on gear change. I read the book and did the research on the site here and only find info about replacing the cable or making sure there was not too much slack. If I tighten the clutch cable will it move the engaging point up without screwing with the feel of the pedal?

Thanks... By the way, is the clutch cable accessed on the drivers or the passengers side of the car? Ya, thats how much I don't know about these cars...

James
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FM Former Member
Wanted to know where the speedsters, in particular the IM, clutch was supposed to engage with respect to its travel. Here is what I have... clutch feels fine, 1/2 to 1 inch of slack, but my problem is that it really doesnt fully engage till it hits the floor. Literally, if I don't have it on the floor I can feel that its grinding on gear change. I read the book and did the research on the site here and only find info about replacing the cable or making sure there was not too much slack. If I tighten the clutch cable will it move the engaging point up without screwing with the feel of the pedal?

Thanks... By the way, is the clutch cable accessed on the drivers or the passengers side of the car? Ya, thats how much I don't know about these cars...

James
E ESFinWilton
Hi James.....
On my VS, clutch adjustment has become a very quick and easy task. I just jack it up, remove the driver's side rear wheel and there it is: the cable with winged adjustment nut right next to the transaxle.
I recently (150 miles ago) replaced my cable. Just the other day I adjusted out what I assume was "break-in" stretch.
PS... always use a jack stand
E ESFinWilton
I'd give it a try.... Trail and error style.
After jacking the car up, reach in and check the pedal "feel" with your hand. Then tighten the adjuster a little to shorten the cable. Check the pedal again to see what you've done. After all, if you get it too tight, can easily un-do it.
PS> When finished adjusting, make sure that adjusting nut is well greased where it makes contact with the clutch arm.
FM Former Member
Yes James, you need to shorten (tighten) the cable length. This way it will fully disengage
your trans while shifting. You can safely shorten it with the wing nut, just don't shorten it
too much as to apply pressure to the pressure plate when not in use. You can feel this by pressing on the arm at the trans while you are under the car.-good luck.
*******The stands are always mandatory!!!************
FM Former Member
Well that was the easiest thing I have ever done for such a huge change. The car drives soooo much nicer now... thanks guys. I have never had a cable based clutch that I had to adjust myself, so that was a first. The clutch now only needs to go from 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down to shift gears and there is absolutely no notchy feeling anymore.

As for stands, I have a full compliment and am so paranoid of my wife finding just my feet sticking out of the bottom of a car that I use them almost as a ritual, even to change a tire out. I am thinking of buying a scissor lift for the garage and noticed the article on the one here on SOC is from the original owner of my car...

Thanks again.

James
FM Former Member
James,

Just for drill, check your adjustment again... Grab hold of the clutch release arm (where the wing nut is located) WIth the cable adjusted properly you should be able to pull that lever no more that 1/8 to 1/4" If it's too tight, then the throwout bearing will be touching the clutch cover and will wear out in no time.
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