Clutch slave cylinder

I always buy new even though MC/SC/BC are simple mechanisms because I don't want to find out in 100 miles or less that the rebuild parts were junk.

Take a look at Aircooled.net's billet slave cylinder. About $80.00, but a good example.

@Carlos G

If there is fluid in the rubber boot then you need to rebuild or replace the slave cylinder. 

Just clean it and buy new O-rings. My slave is 17 years old on the original O-rings. But I have cleaned it out and reassembled a couple times. I replaced my MC with a new Wilwood, I believe it's 5/8" bore. If you flush and bleed every 2 years, you'll never have a problem. 

The slave is either 3/4" or 7/8" bore, can't remember. Greg?

I believe travel should be around an inch at the slave, but I haven't measured it.

I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit. It's kind of a joke really.

Someone said somewhere that the SC unscrews on the non business end?

I'm going to eventually replace the clutch MC with one with a remote reservoir. Refilling the MC during bleeding currently, is a real PITA. I already have the Seduction triple reservoir. The brake takes up two spots, so there is one left for the clutch.

I've looked at the Wilwood MCs and they have remote and non remote versions. They also come in various bores. My current MC has 5/8" on the side.

I just need to get over some current unexpected expenses, then I can resume the infinite tweaking.

I rebuilt the slave cylinder. It was a piece of cake, and then flushed the system. I also flushed the brakes while I messing with brake fluid. I also adjusted the play at the pedals on both. I also adjusted the emergency brake. One side was grabbing before the other.

One thing that was weird when I was pumping fluid for the front brakes, the pedal would go down, but not come back up, huh?? So I used a syringe that I use to bleed dot fluid bicycle brakes and sucked the fluid from the caliper. This made the pedal return and worked great. I just topped off the MC reservoir for every full syringe. I only had to do this for the front circuit. I also used this technique for the clutch slave cylinder. I also used this syringe to refill the clutch MC since it's in such an inconvenient location.

I ended up with about 3/4" of travel on the slave. More than enough for the clutch. I even had to loosen it up a touch to get the pedal where I wanted it.

Took it out for a spin. All good.

I'm not a fan on how the hydro line for the clutch was run. It runs right next to the exhaust a one point. I did wrap the line with some insulating tape for now. I would like to run this line in a different place on the frame and then run a hose from it to the slave. Currently the hard line goes straight to the slave. There isn't very much movement, but I'd rather have some buffer for vibration and the very little movement that's there now.  

I do have a question for whomever understands all this hose fitting size mumbo jumbo. Here is a shot of the back of the fancy triple reservoir. Yes it was leaking and the brake fluid has removed the black coating. I'll add this fix to the list. I did tighten the fittings some more and hopefully took care of this.

But anyway, if the nipple size is about 3/8" and the threads measure at about 7/16", what -AN size would this make this?

I found this on the Wilwood site that I think will make my existing clutch MC be able to do a remote reservoir. https://www.wilwood.com/Master...dAcc?itemno=260-3396

It doesn't give a diagram with it's size, but for $8.58, I'm willing to take a chance.

CG

An-3 or 4, maybe 6 IDK outside thread sizes, Carlos. Most brake line stuff is AN-3(the 3 means 3/16 ID tubing size). AN-8 ID is 1/2" or 8/16" for example on oil lines. Do a little research on sizing.

Sounds good on your bleeding approach. I remember turning my slave so the bleeder is straight up for bleeding.

I ran a metric 10mm fine thread coupler, and longer hard line and bending the line to the firewall. Then it runs down the right lower frame rail, then the engine mount member. I looped it between the bellhousing and the frame, and put slit fuel hose over it every six inches or so and a tie-rap. Then a short teflon/braided line up to the slave, conveniently away from the exhaust heat. Completely out of the way for engine removal as well.