clutchdoesn'tclutch

when i push my clutch pedal the clutch doesn't take up.
i think i have adjusted the length of the cable as much as possible.
i don't think it's anything to do with the gearshift, as i can turn off the engine and put it in gear ok.
how do i identify if it is the correct bend in the boden tube?
if i sit in the wheel arch should and can see the clutch arm travel it's full throw when somebody pushes the pedal i quess it has to be something with the clutch plate. and i quess that means the engine out! damn!
anybody got any ideas?

Another possibility is the clutch cable tube inside the tunnel. When those come loose they give you all sorts of trouble. Also, look closely at the little arm that the cable attaches to to make sure it's not slipping on the clutch fork shaft. If that's not it, then you will probably have to pull the motor. Good thing the motors are designed to come out! Once the motor is off make sure you check the clutch fork on the inside of the bell housing before you write off the pressure plate and clutch.

If the external clutch arm is swinging with "full throw" as you said, then the trouble is inside the bell; Off with the engine! When I went shopping for the clutch parts, I found that there are several Throw Out bearing arm, and bearing designs. Without getting into all of the design specifics, one of the things that justified the changes were that the arm-cradles for the bearing would bend or break on the older designs. Seems like it would make a heck of a racket, but the real tell-tale would be the clutch pedal effort. If the pedal is only fighting the torsion spring, which would feel much lighter than normal, then the bearing arm is broken.
Now, while you're doing all of this, I'd go to the trouble of replacing the mechanical system all together and go hydralic!! I'm looking for the first excuse I can find...
-Tim

hydraulic sounds pretty major! tell me more about this please. thanks

Jamar sells a hydraulic clutch/brake assembly for $214 through AirCooled.net. It includes the slave cylinders required for both as well, and I assume the hydraulic lines. There's also a dedicated clutch only kit, although I can't remember where I saw it...If my clutch ever breaks, one of these will quickly find it's way in!

how difficult are these hydraulic clutch kits from jamar to fit? how much metal cutting is there? what are the benifits? thanks

i had a look at the jamar website. it doesn't make it clear if everything for an hydraulic clutch is sold as one 'kit'. anybody actually done this? thanks

It could be where the builder shortend your clutch cable came loose ,I would look at this before jirking the motor.

If the cable set up is the old style CMC type that has ther two "U" clamps holding the shotened sections it may appear intact but have pulled loose a bit.