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There's no need to do  the fiberglass mess. the glass will eventually pull away from the steel anyway. I bolt the body to the chassis using the VW pan gasket and a layer of silicone caulk at the same time and  5 1/6" hex head self tapping screws where the bolts will but work. Then brush on a good quality  seam sealer all around the interior pan gaps. Fill in the large gap above the rear tunnel area with spray expansion foam but cover the shifter rod & coupler with plastic so the foam will not adhere to it. Finally I make splash guards that go in the forward end of the rear wheel wells.

Splash guardsplash guard

 

 

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Last edited by Alan Merklin

As Alan said, "Forgetaboudit!"  

The bond will separate over time, anyway (ask me how I know...) and start to squeek and click and creak, and the whole idea of bonding Fiberglass to metal is difficult, at best, so just use something like spray-on bedliner on the inside body-to-pan seam to seal it up.  Alan's inner fender liners are WAY worth the time to fab and install them.  They will save you a LOT of future grief.  And remember......the CMC manual's techniques were developed in the 1980's.  This forum and the people on it have developed far better techniques over the past 20 years or so.

Don't feel bad.  I did my first car like that, too.  We were all doing what the CMC manual told us to do, right?  Whadidweknow???  In fact, Whadidtheyknow?????

Look at how much more sophistaced we all are now, mostly thanks to Dr. Clock and Troy!   We're all so cool, we should all get Enrico Feloozy Italian Driving gloves like Marty!  Or maybe Kuba Giermaziak has a line of "Lead Foot" driving shoes, I dunno.  Hey!  I wear a modern pair of "Fausto Coppi" gloves on my bicycle, so who am I to talk, eh?  And a pair or "Louis Garneau" biker shorts, too (do you think that they make my butt look too big?  I dunno!).    And a Chris Froome "Team Sky" jersey.  I'm like a "Riding United Nations" out there!!   

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

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