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Yeah, that'd worry me too.

My IM car has the copper line solidly glassed where it passes through the body. Im not sure if it runs through the tunnel (I'm not so sure that IM uses a tunnel in the same sense that VW did yet) but where I've seen it in changing the fuel tank and in front of the engine it's well set in either glass or some sort of hardening sealing compound. It's secured is what I'm saying.

If you could use a rubber grommet pushed along the fuel line into the tunnel at each end maybe it'd help keep it from any possible rub wear in there? I'd want to isolate it the line from everything around it unless it and other things are solidly mounted to keep vibration or other movements from letting them rub each other.
I'm honestly thinking that is my damn death pop/rattle in the front lower dash. Now that I see that it is not even secured. I'm really not opposed to buying a very high quality thick racing fuel line (black rubber) and just laying it in the tunnel and when it exits, keep securing it neatly until its back at the business end. I don't see any other protective way to run it.
If copper line has a chance to move against another surface, particularly an edged surface, it WILL eventually wear through and be a leak. If that's the case in your car I'd make it a top priority thing to fix one way or another.

Can you imagine raw fuel lying around in the VW tunnel? It'd be "Keith Flambe'" if someone hits you.
Keith, I have a steel line that starts just in front of the footwell, ducks into the tunnel and comes out in the driver's side frame horn. Both ends are secured with rubber grommets, and the inside is bracketed with a set of three brake-line tabs like you'd use for your front brakes on the pan gusset.

I have braided lines from those two ends, one from the tank and the other to a splitter. Filter and pump in front, splitter to carbs in the back.

I run rubber line from the tank to the filter ( 9 in. ) then a rubber connection to the electric fuel pump ( 4 in. ) then another connection ( 6 in. ) to a steel line running down the driver's side of the frame externaly, to the engine compartment..... Needless to say i tucked it in around the tranny area and it ends up exiting at an almost stock lcation.... From there, a rubber connector to the pressuer regulato ( 10 in. )r, and rubber lines to the carbs.... I used rubber tubing as abrasion shields and secured the line with cable ties..... I'm planing on redoing the carbs with steel feeds....
The little black car we're re-doing will have steel lines on the frame-rail, also. Routing looks clear, good points to secure to eliminate rattles, etc.

Might also run them through the tunnel like on the 911's. But I've got to run two lines (supply and return), and I think it would just be easier to run them along the frame rail.

angela
Mango, what do you mean? I'm just asking questions that I can't find in searches on the site and Internet.... I'm not bitching, I'm just tinkering and piddling on my little hobby car... I'm not upset in the least. I knew 100% going in that I'd play find N fix for a good while. Maybe I took your comment wrong.... The precious owner never broke or fixed anything. I believe honestly that he bought and drove the car very little and wasn't mechanically minded enough to let copper on steel pans, etc bother him. He just never drove the car. 500 miles in 10 years of owning it. In a couple of years, I'll pull the body off and restore the car. Meanwhile I'm just going to make it safe and comfortable and enjoy it, as it's a nice looking driver...
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