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Even adding a relay so headlights get a solid 12V directly from the front mounted battery will be a huge improvement even with stock lights.  Use slightly larger gauge wire for less voltage drop.  The H4 bulbs can be std Hi/Lo 60/55 W, 100/55 W, 100/80 W or  130/90 W. Most kit car wiring uses the light switch to switch 12v to the lights - that results in switch arcing and overheating (it can catch fire!)  A relay and larger gauge wire is $15 solution. 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Dave!  Long time, no see....Maybe I should get to Carlisle more often.

I have the Hella H4's with the super-beefy wiring and relays.  The bulbs I'm currently using are 100/55's that I got online years ago.  They used to be as bright as my F250 with its' Halogens, but then I put on the headlight stone shields - the wire mesh type, not the vertical bars - and I lost 20-25% of the brightness.  Bit of a surprise, but in retrospect I should have expected it.  So I bought a pair of 100/80 bulls that have been sitting in the shop for two years waiting to go in because it's an afternoon job to do both sides - not like swapping bulbs in my Rogue (although swapping a bulb in Kathy's Outback took about an hour!)

If you go with even the 85/55's, you should have the beefed up wiring and relays to get the most out of them.

WOLFGANG posted:

Even adding a relay so headlights get a solid 12V directly from the front mounted battery will be a huge improvement even with stock lights.  Use slightly larger gauge wire for less voltage drop.  The H4 bulbs can be std Hi/Lo 60/55 W, 100/55 W, 100/80 W or  130/90 W. Most kit car wiring uses the light switch to switch 12v to the lights - that results in switch arcing and overheating (it can catch fire!)  A relay and larger gauge wire is $15 solution. 

Greg, what gauge do you recommend?

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