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Not mine. Another un-built CMC from early 90's. Little costly at $12k - but sure that is what he has invested. Why would anyone go to trouble of raising transaxel? Won't that make the engine hit the lid or at least the lid hinges. Makes it easy to service the rear coupling though. At least it would give oil pan clearance for a Subbie transplant. No engine mentioned. The CMC quality control sticker is worth extra $250 - mine didn't have butt-kiss on it.
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Raising the engine or shortening the oil pan is not necessary on all Soob transplants...just for the record. I put an EJ22 in mine with a stock pan and have about five inches of clearance. Is this just a myth or has someone actually encountered this problem ?
Hey David,
In my case I had to go to the shorter pan as well as tilt the engine/transaxle up in order to get the 5 inches of ground clearance I wanted while maintaining a good ride height adjustment for the rear of the car. I also moved from a 25 to a 26 on the torsion bars and a stiffer shock all to keep the car from bottoming out. For me good ride height is about one inch of clearance between the top of the rear rim and the fender.
Initially I set the engine in dead level with a stack EJ22 oil pan at the described ride height I had about one and one half inches of clearance. Moving to the shorter pan gave me another two and one half inches and I thought I was good but that wasn’t enough. Driving with the short pan 4 inches of clearance and the softer shocks/torsion bars I bottomed out at about 35-40 mph driving through a 4x6 patch in the road that had sunk over time. As the car came out the other side the suspension was still compressed and I nailed the leading edge of the oil pan with the higher edge of the original pavement. Luckily it was just my pride and the shortened oil pan that were destroyed that day. So to answer your question I guess depending on the setup of an individual car some modification may be required.
Why would anyone go to trouble of raising transaxel? Won't that make the engine hit the lid or at least the lid hinges.
i have a physically larger T4 motor and had seriously considered a 1" trans raise, but that is only becaue my header is 1cm off the ground. 
that has to be a 4" trans raise on what looks to be a swing trans (based on the LP beam and lack of rear torsion arms)
i can only assume the builder wanted to have no negative camber and better traction, but didn't consider the height limitations of the body.
As Mango said, it would solve the rear camber problem, and if the motor used was a pancake (type 3 or 4) with some short intake manifolds, that might work. The 4" trans/motor raise seems kind of oddball though, without knowing what the original plan was. With the room (or better put, lack thereof) I have in my older Intermeccanica, I imagine with that much motor lift the only dual carbs that fit would be dcnf's and low profile manifolds. Now my interest is piqued; I may have to email just to find out what it's set up for....Al
PS I sent an email asking what the plan was; I'll report back if I get an answer. Al
Wow...Peter. Sounds like I just got plain lucky. I did add a pair of el cheapo coil overs in the rear to stiffen things up for travelling over those occasional " whoop de doos" in the road. The coil overs actually raised the rear end a bit too much even on it's lowest adjustment point so I removed a bit off each coil one bit at a time to get the ride height I wanted. I don't think you're supposed to cut those coils but it worked for me.
Come to think of it Peter, mine is a swing axle...would your's be an IRS and that could make a difference?
My car is IRS. I'm sure that how ever the transaxle is mounted plays a hugh role.
Cany wait to see you and Francine(well everyone realy) next month.
I got a response back from the guy selling the kit; the idea was to lower it without the negative camber issue arising as it's a swing axle. I asked about motor/body clearance and he said he was going to use a "low profile fan shroud". Al
