Really new at this! I have a CMC built in mid-90's. Built by an enthusiast in Arizona and does not have a top or heat [controls but no heater boxes] Looking for advice on heated-seats vs. heater. Also, VDO speedometer seems inaccurate and odometer does not work. Is there anything I should check before sending in for repair. Thanks
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Heated seats with a full tonneau may be enough in AZ. I've used the Rostra seat heaters in past. To be honest even with OEM (aluminum finned internals) heat exchangers lose a lot of heat getting thru the steel tubes to the front. If you need defrosters - it could be worth it. Some even add a fan booster like a marine bilge air pump.
Thanks. I would never use a top and may try heated seats. Is no top a deal breaker if and when I sell? This is my first "Adventure" and enjoying it very much. Car has a few issues but is solid and I thought it would be a good learning experience.
Today I'd say any car in any condition is sellable, pretty much instantly.
Five or ten years from now, who knows?
Having said that, a top can always be added later if your car doesn't have one. So I'm thinking lack of a top is not too much of a deal-breaker.
You can also not do exhaust heat exchangers at all. I have heated seat inserts in the bottom and backs of my Spyder seats. I also have a modern Webasto gas heater for cabin heat and defrost. It would be expensive to have it installed, but if you're a DIY guy it's not too difficult.
@Gary Hart posted:Also, VDO speedometer seems inaccurate and odometer does not work. Is there anything I should check before sending in for repair. Thanks
How good are you at mechanical things? Speedos are a pretty simple mechanism. I solved my inaccuracies by pulling my speedo apart, cleaning out the 30 year old grease, re-lubing it and putting it back together.
The VDO replica gauges are well known for breaking their odometers if you reset them while moving.
Palo Alto Speedometer or Hollywood Speedo can repair them if you can’t.
Honestly, the hardest part of the whole operation is getting the bezel off.
Yeah, I fixed a friend's 1972 911 speedo who had a broken odometer. I cleaned out the old grease, and re-lubed it with light lithium grease.
One of the odometer gears was slipping on the shaft. I slid it down roughed it up with sandpaper, and epoxied it. Permanently repaired.
And yes, the hardest part was removing the bezel. I used an emery cutoff wheel on a Dremel and made a small cut, then gently pried the bezel open until I could slide it off. It was pretty easy after that. Replacing the bezel, I tapped it back into place with a small tack hammer going around in very small steps. I wouldn't do this on a Speedster. But on the 911 the disturbed area of the bezel is hidden by a rubber gasket.
Guys who can do the bezel without kludging the entire thing amaze me.
What kind of alchemy is that?
Pelican does VDO speedo repair for $95. Are yours real VDO? Is yours a 914 Speedo - if so I have a spare. I know on 914 gauges - resetting the ODO while moving destroys the plastic gear.
I use a few of the plastic throw away razor knifes, start with two small screwdrivers to be able to lift the back side of the bezel away from the gauge case then start inserting the razor knife blades pulling then along the gauge case the bezel will stretch to come off the casing. Obviously, you need to be careful.
Thanks so much for taking time to help. I'm new but learning a lot from this group. I might try your patience going forward with many many questions.
