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I've got an old CMC kit with the dreaded droop. The gaps at the tops of the doors have widened over the years. I had an old thread about how to fix this with a steel plate about 5" x10" to be welded in. However, when I tried this, I couldn't quite see where it would go and, in any event, it looked like there was a plate in about the spot where the fix would go (this doesn't make much sense to me- it's an early kit that I've had since new so nobody else could have done it) Any of you gurus able to help out? Thanx a lot.
1957 CMC(Speedster)
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I've got an old CMC kit with the dreaded droop. The gaps at the tops of the doors have widened over the years. I had an old thread about how to fix this with a steel plate about 5" x10" to be welded in. However, when I tried this, I couldn't quite see where it would go and, in any event, it looked like there was a plate in about the spot where the fix would go (this doesn't make much sense to me- it's an early kit that I've had since new so nobody else could have done it) Any of you gurus able to help out? Thanx a lot.
Easy 1.5 - 2 hr. fix is as follows:

Lay a 2'- 3' piece of 2x4 across the jack pad on a floor jack, place the 2x4 to one side of the rear body as you'll be doing one door gap at a time. Gently raise the jack up just enough to be against the rear of the body to support it.
With an angle drill, drill out the factory installed rivets on the one side of the speedster.
Gently.... jack up on the body a hair at a time until you have an even vertical door gap or the closest you can get it to be even.
Enlarge the rivet holes to 5/16" inch.
With a large screwdriver, pry the fiberglass wheel well away from the horizontal 2x2 steel brace and add some construction adhesive.
Bolt in the 5/16 bolts fender washers on both sides of the fiberglass panel and secure with nyloc nuts.
Release the jack and do the same for the other side. ~Alan
i would recommend something a little different / stronger

http://www.mangosmoothie.ca/images/months/2009/April/

do the same as the doc recommends - jack it up to pre-load it, then weld in some custom braces.

if i ever need to remove the body - i can cut these, but it really made a big difference in the rear sag / door gap / stopping the shaking of the rear end.
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