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i read the post on speedster owners, and here about the classic cmc rear sag. I have the same problem, funny the passenger side is very close, and it's the drivers side that is the problem. A bit of history, the car only had 1700mi since built, and it's built very well, everything else on the car is a 11 out of 10, so after reading the post about the cmc rear sag i went out and took off both wheels, put it on stands, jacks on the rear with a towel, and removed both side rivets (which were actually really tight and not moving at all) as i played for about an hour expirementing with the jacks on the back, if i jacked the pass up at all from where it was originally i'd have the pass door actually get stuck, and i can see on the frame where the fiberglass vertical pannels were originally positioned (from the undercoating sprayed on the car). I can almost say 100% that the rear was not sagging, and judging by the build quality of the rest of the car, i'm almost certain the car did not have this poor door allignment on the drivers door when the car was "new". Both doors are alligned perfectly along the botton and front, and i mean perfect. The ONLY issue i have is with the drivers door, it's actually lower than the rear section, and the gap at the bottom is perfect, and gets wider as you look up the door, which tells me it's almost like the body (but only rear upright) has to be pivoted with out effecting the rear. So after about an hour of studying the situation with the rivets all out on both sides, i decided to button everything up with the same position it was before i touched it. So i got a 1" by about 1/4" peice of allum, that i "sandwhiched" between the fiberglass upright and the frame rail. Drilled thru the allum, glass, and rail, washers, carriage bolts thru the entire thing, and i put 8 on each side, from the original 5 rivets. My result is that i'm right back where i started, but i can say the car is extreemly rigid, and i've definetly made the rear section much stronger, but my door gaps are the same!!! so half a days work and basically i got the same problem, but at least i have a solid stiff car now!!!! My tail pipes are perfect, so i can tell the rear is'nt sagging, plus i measured from the floor (absoultly level) to the corners, frame rail, everything and everything i've measured was within aircraft tollerances!!! But the damm drivers door still are out at the top only. I alligned the doors to the front and the bottom perfectly, just worrying about the rear allignment on a otherwise perfect car. And i can say i'm really getting pissed off (pardon my french) with it. Not is it just a little out, but alot, and it's a real eyesore, any ideas????????

martin
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I had a CMC that after many years had the sag. It also suffered from the installation of a 912 motor which had a bar across the back of the motor attrached to the rear frame. I added supports with adjustable heim joints so I could adjust the door gaps individually. Really made the car much stiffer as well.

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  • 5tie
I welded in a loop right in front of the engine compartment. I made it out of 1x3 steel. It goes from outside frame rail to outsid and was about 9 in. tall.

I welded ears for the hiem joints on each end on top. I then used 1x1 square tubes from the back side of the loop to the rear of the frame on each side. Requires you cut a hole on each side of the firewall for the 1X1 to pass through.

I set the Hiems at full extension. I attached the hiems to the ears on the loop to figure out where to place the ears on the uprights.
I then welded ears on the 2x2 uprights just behind the doors.

I had to take the rear tires off and cut a 5 in. hole in the fender well to get the loop in and weld it (Saved the cutout and fiberglassed them back in). I cut 2in. holes in the firewall. for the 1x1.

This add mucho support to the whole rear frame.

As you can see, I made a wood buck to test fit with. You have to clear the inner body supports.

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  • 6jig
so is that the only way to fix the door gap? ben; your pic looks like my door, funny thing is the passenger door is fine, and when i removed the rear rivets on both sides and had jacks on the rear body, no amount of adjustment would fix the door gaps. its almost like the drivers side has to twist to correct the gap.

martin
paul - i'll look in my bently, but i think you mean at the rear, just by the snubber mount?

Ben - i've done that, if you read my original post, i had both sides rivets removed at the same time, jacks with wood and rags under the 2 rear corners, and the suspension loaded at ride height, and i fiddled for hours with the 2 jacks at the rear, and nothing i did made the door gap any better at all, just worse. plus my car is a very low-mile car, sat for 7 or so years without being driven, and i'm sure looking at the caliber of the car that the door gaps were not like this when it was new, the car is done extreemly well. I reinforced the rear by using 8 carriage bolts on the rear uprights, and sandwiched the fiberglass between a bar of allum, and drilled straight thru the rear cross bar, the car is a million times stiffer than originally, but equally well the original rivets were not loose at all, i could tell from the undercoating that they did'nt move since the car was built, so the problem must lie elsewhere, but it's really driving me crazy, i just have to fix the drivers door only, otherwise the car is perfect. Actually i just drove it last night, the night before.....and the night before....ect....and last weekend i went to the bug show in niagra, and my car actually won class champion!!!! the first time i ever won anything. The only issue i have with the car is that damm drivers door gap, it's a huge eyesore, the gap is good at the bottom of the door and gets wider as you look up, only at the back of the drivers door.

martin.
Here's some pics:

The carriage bolts i added (you can only see 4, the rest go straight to the front, 8 in total each side):
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05030.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05107.jpg

door pics:
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05056.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05072.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05073.jpg

engine:
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC04841.jpg

car:
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05075.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05038.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC05018.jpg

http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/speedster/?action=view¤t=DSC04489.jpg

martin


Yup, that door gap sure looks familar. Mine was worse on the driverside as well. Nice car. Pretty sweet.

Truth is, the issue really isn't the fiberglass, its the frame. The way the frame is made with the single hoop all the way from the torsion to the rear of the car puts too much weight hanging too far out. You can rebolt the fiberglass to the frame but as soon as you but release the weight of the fiberglass back on it it sags. Try using a wood block or two an jack it up on the left rear bumper mount(lift the frame). The gap dissappears?

If so, the method I used will correct the problem. You might check the rear frame carefully to ensure no welds have broken.

This page from the manual shows the fram that is inside the body. As you can see, there is not much from the doors back. https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/fiberfaba/images/fiberfaba049.jpg
martin , ben is right there is alot hanging out there unsupported , can you take a picture of the whole door opening , it looks like the door might be a little tight on the upper front edge also , pics of what i did to support the back of mine and to keep it from becoming a constant problem , ron .

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