Is there a way to tell if a speedster I'm looking at has the "butt sag" through pictures? I'm looking at a speedster in another state and would like to see if this is an issue prior to flying up to see it personally. What pictures should i ask the owner for? Any suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Is there a way to tell if a speedster I'm looking at has the "butt sag" through pictures? I'm looking at a speedster in another state and would like to see if this is an issue prior to flying up to see it personally. What pictures should i ask the owner for? Any suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Notice the large gap at the top of the door opening that narrows as you go down the gap....
Sure fire butt sag..... Also check the area just in front of the gas tank, underneath of course.... There should be a support bracket of some sort..... Many times this item was never installed and contributes to butt sag by adding nose sag to the problem...
How do he know????
Attachments
I would imagine it's a slow, gradual thing if it's going to happen.
Not a big concern, a first timer can do the machine bolt, fender washer upgrade in a couple of hours for $20
Yeah, I would never let that be the decision factor in a purchase.
Very easy fix (but a good bargaining point for a prospective buyer....)
I had butt sag on my CMC with it just sitting in garage undriven for 20 years. Easy quick fix (2 hrs and $30).
As Leon pointed out there is a steel brace in front and also fiberglass wheel well splash panels which are fiberglassed to nose (again a step sometimes skipped).
I hauled my car from Missouri to SE Texas on a tandem axle lowboy trailer. When I arrived at home the back end of the car could be moved up and down 3/8" on the frame! I think most of this was done on some of the roughest highways in the country...thru Oklahoma! I used an adhesive, along with a 24" long piece of 1/4 x 1 1/2" aluminum flat bar and 1/4" bolts to sandwich the fiberglass fender wells to the tubing frame.
This was a very secure and rigid connection. However, after this fix I noticed that there is some flex in the 2 x 2 square tubing used for the frame in the rear. The car still had some movement at the rear bumper due to this flex. The square tubing is highly cantilevered at the rear. Also there is a welded, overlap joint in the tubing that can flex. Therefore, I also added tie-bars from the rear of the frame to the top of the uprights that are located just behind the door jambs. I used rod ends on the tie-bars for fine adjustment. This has made a very solid rear end on the car!
I'm curious, what is different on the VS (or other pan body) cars that make them more rigid than the CMC? Does anyone have details of the design that it used on these other cars?