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Hello Gang,

 

I've got a line on an unfinished CMC speedster. The serial number is in the 2100's. The current owner says that the body has been placed on the pan and it runs. It's a standard 1600, single port on a late 60's pan.  He has the windshield and the frame, but they are not installed yet. It's buried in a garage, so I have yet to actually see photos. I may take a trip out to see it and see if I can make a deal.

 

Assuming:

After 20 plus years, the bright-work and gauges are not useable and I will have to replace them all.There are no 'back fees' on the VIN.

The mechanical items will need a complete revisit.

 

My questions are:

What should I expect to pay for a reasonably assembled project?

Is there anything I should look out for / avoid?


About me:
I am a reasonably skilled craftsman. I have rebuilt several older volkswagens and most recently I've completely restored a 1955 Teardrop trailer.

 

I look forward to your replies.


Thanks

Ted

 

 

 

 

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Sounds good, Ted. For a reference, back in Sept 2010 I bought an older IM speedster in Boise, Idaho and was able to drive it East to Ottawa, Canada after putting on four new tires and a tie rod end. I paid $6,500 for it which was a bargain. It would not have been worth over $10K as it sat. Stock 1600 engine, no frills.

 

So, with that as a base, you may want to check out the fit and finish of the car you're looking at. How do the doors fit, how does it shift, stop, start etc. Any massive drips under the engine, tranny ? How is the interior...complete and in not bad shape ? Drum brakes all round? Generally, does it look like a nice project that never got finished for various reasons or some piece of crap that someone created and everything turned sour? Does it look right...everything straight ? What type of top is on it...condition ? Under the front hood...finished or empty but with a fuel tank ?

 

Alan Merklin in PA has refurbished many of them and may be able to give a good opinion on the current value.  I don't know your location but a visit to physically examine the car would be a very good idea if pics sent to you make it look promising.

 

If all the above looks to be headed in the right direction, I don't think $4-5K would be too far out of line. Do some work, throw a bit of cash into it and you'd have a good basic runner worth about $10K +. Put a better engine/tranny, brakes etc. into it and you'd have something worth maybe in the upper teens.

Mine's been in garage over 20 years and chrome is still ok.  About all the chrome that's there are the windshield posts ($90), the license plate light ($80) and the hub caps ($100).  All other is aluminum which can be polished.  I personally don't like the Vintage gauges - but there are numerous VDO alternatives.  Unfortunately they are all slightly smaller in size.  Nearly all came with a colored gel coat finish which even if faded can be brought back to life. 

 

Originally the kit without pan, wheels, trans and engine was $8k (plus shipping).  Finished in nice condition they go for around $15k plus or minus depending on finish quality and engine size.  You'll always want a more powerful engine.

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Well, at the risk of losing it to someone else, here it is. He wants $9999.00 or best offer *this weekend*. He just posted the photos this evening and banks are closed tomorrow. So unless someone travels with a stack of cash, I don't think it'll be 'gone' tomorrow.

 

The orange 'glow' on the car is from an outdoor light.

 

It looks to be some sort of runner. I don't think it's anywhere near a 10k dollar car. Maybe half of that would be still too much.

 

What do you guys think? Am I off base?

 

Ted

 

 

 

 

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So, there are so many things here which are different from what he said originally. It's on a 63 pan, not a 69. This would mean swing axle and king pin front end. Most likely drums. It's registration is expired. That's a dual port motor, with dual carbs - not single port. The windshield is mounted, etc. etc.

 

I don't know. It looks like if a guy could get it cheap enough it might be an okay start. But I'm talking like... 3k max.

 

You guys know more about these things than I do, you tell me.

 

Thanks again,
Ted

 

 

I did a lot better.  If you follow samba you will see many a lot cleaner than that one. I have purchased several cars from a long distance but never without seeing them with my eyeballs eventually.  (got burned on a shipment once) First I have a local shop inspect the car on my nickel.  Then comes the list of all the issues. If price is arrived upon I PayPal a decent deposit.  ( Paypal cause if there is an issue Paypal is like a credit card)  THen I fly to pick up car.  Never been disspointed.  I bought an IM, a 993 as well as boring cars.  IMHO that car is just too rough.  I got one for quite a bit less and it was running, fender flares etc.  ANd despite how close to complete I have invested thousands to get it to where I want it.  I would maybe give  $5 to $6k.  Sorry but you will not get it for $3k.  I am not a masochist and I would give $5k cause you would have enuf in the budget to have a lot of work done by someone else.  WIsh I could be more optimistic. Oh and I sold a $22k IM five years ago.  Buyer in santa barbara used same system.  Pics of that car are still here.  Boo hoo do I wish I had not sold that car.  It would be easily worth $25-28K today.  But back then I needed the cash.  Not to drone on but here is another method that I have used.  First thing every AM I check every major city in the far west.  When a new listing hits I do what I mentioned earlier.  I have the cash when I get on the plane.  I got a Spec Miata race car like that for a good price.

 

THought I would give my system a try and found a couple of really nice cars in the $17K area.  I also found "your" car http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4243879791.html.  You could not be in a better place.  I have seen many really nice cars in the $12-16k range.  And Troy Sloan is in San Jose and he has nice cars.  Better to buy a nice car even if you have to make some payments rather than a roach that you will never be happy with.  That car needs help but if you have time to pull engine and rebuild and do all that interior and cosmetic at that price it looks ok.  I bought mine in Reno without starting it and it also had flat tires.  But I knew I could deal with the motor and I just sanded and buffed the paint and it is really nice, IMO.  WOrking on ride height and putting in new seats etc but I drove it in the summer.

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Hey Bluz,

 

Thanks for the replies. I agree with you that 3k is almost as big of a dream as his 10k. I think I was being a pissy bitch when I posted that.

 

I think if I can get it for 5k and the pans aren't shot it might be a decent foundation. I mean, all the 'big parts' are there, it's a running roller, and I'm not paying anything extra for bits I don't want. The list of things to change/fix is pretty long. Long enough to make it affordable.

 

I have a call out to the owner of the car. We'll see if he returns it. He had the car listed about a month ago for 11,399, but didn't have an photos. The car is in SF, basically 'on' the coast. If he returns my call, I'm going to head out and have a look. See if I can swing a deal.

 

I didn't know Troy was in San Jose. I thought he was in Fresno. I should drop him a message and see if he'd be interested in showing me some of his cars. Maybe he'll be willing to give me some pointers on what to look out for.

 

Thanks again, Bluz.


Ted

I bought a 1988 unfinished CMC kit sitting on a 1973 IRS pan with even more stuff included than what's being offered there for $3K about three years ago.  The body was not mounted (still on the crate) and i assumed that the engine and transmission were throw-aways...you should, too.

 

That said, offer him $3K for it for removal the next day (unless you show up with a trailer to take it with you same day).   If he doesn't bite, I would go as high as $4K but no more.....it simply isn't worth more than that.  You'll end up putting $10K-$12K more into it before it's done (and probably a year or two of your time).

 

Good luck

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
BluzB...  Don't know where you got the idea I am in San Jose.  I'm in Fresno, about 3 hour from San Jose.
 
Originally Posted by BluzBrudda:

THought I would give my system a try and found a couple of really nice cars in the $17K area.  I also found "your" car http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/4243879791.html.  You could not be in a better place.  I have seen many really nice cars in the $12-16k range.  And Troy Sloan is in San Jose and he has nice cars.  Better to buy a nice car even if you have to make some payments rather than a roach that you will never be happy with.  That car needs help but if you have time to pull engine and rebuild and do all that interior and cosmetic at that price it looks ok.  I bought mine in Reno without starting it and it also had flat tires.  But I knew I could deal with the motor and I just sanded and buffed the paint and it is really nice, IMO.  WOrking on ride height and putting in new seats etc but I drove it in the summer.

 

I drove out and saw the black beauty today. Ooooh boy. If he gets more than 5k for that thing, he's found his sucker.

 

It wouldn't start. Most of the bolts were your home depot variety. The entire thing smelled of mildew and moisture. The lower side of the pan wasn't welded as cleanly as the top. It was simply spot welded. So you could see the 'seam' really clearly on the bottom. The rust was pretty evident on the underside edges of the pan. The top of the passenger door was pretty busted up on the rear corner. The bumpers (both front and rear were really off center, by about 2 inches to one side. 

 

Transmission was pretty wet with some sort of oil. Same with the underside of the motor. 

 

It's a shame to see this one so far gone.

 

 

IMAG0114

IMAG0115

IMAG0116

IMAG0117

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IMAG0120

IMAG0116

IMAG0120

 

 

I was really trying to like this one, but I think it'd be a long road to hoe. I'm going to pass. 

 

Ted

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  • IMAG0114: Both sides had this odd cut out in the body/sill area. This side was the better looking of the two, The other side looked like they tried to glass over it and ran out of pop rivets and epoxy.
  • IMAG0115: The rear gap at the top was pretty wide.
  • IMAG0116: The front gap was mostly even.
  • IMAG0117: Bumper was pushed way over on this side.
  • IMAG0118: Bumper was rubbing the body on this side.
  • IMAG0119: Really funky bulge on this door edge.
  • IMAG0120: Another shot of the other side. Note the door gap.
Originally Posted by LongTimeLurker:

...and WRT that $9,999 car I think it iis wildly overpriced as others have said.  You'd probably be better off getting a new kit from Vintage and having a solid base instead of inheriting someone else's headache.

I thought I read somewhere that the Vintage body had a misshapen front end? One fender/side is shaped correctly but the other side bulges out more than it should (or something of that nature.)


I'm not saying that's true, it's just what I thought I read on this board.

 

Is this not true? Just some sort of dirty rotten rumor penned by someone with an ax to grind? 

T

Originally Posted by LongTimeLurker:

I had also read this but it is a very slight defect from what I remember.  I have not been able to see any defect on my VS.

That's kind of what I figured. More hype than reality. 

 

The way I see it, the old adage holds true: Buy the best example you can find to start with. This would NOT be the best example.

 

Alas, I keep looking.

 

Thanks again, guys.

 

Ted 

It's no rumor.  There is a very slight bulge in the right front fender.  It's slight, you have to look closely and nobody would ever notice it, but it's there.  No big deal really.
 
Originally Posted by TRP:
Originally Posted by LongTimeLurker:

...and WRT that $9,999 car I think it iis wildly overpriced as others have said.  You'd probably be better off getting a new kit from Vintage and having a solid base instead of inheriting someone else's headache.

I thought I read somewhere that the Vintage body had a misshapen front end? One fender/side is shaped correctly but the other side bulges out more than it should (or something of that nature.)


I'm not saying that's true, it's just what I thought I read on this board.

 

Is this not true? Just some sort of dirty rotten rumor penned by someone with an ax to grind? 

T

 

Originally Posted by TRP:
Originally Posted by LongTimeLurker:

...and WRT that $9,999 car I think it iis wildly overpriced as others have said.  You'd probably be better off getting a new kit from Vintage and having a solid base instead of inheriting someone else's headache.

I thought I read somewhere that the Vintage body had a misshapen front end? One fender/side is shaped correctly but the other side bulges out more than it should (or something of that nature.)


I'm not saying that's true, it's just what I thought I read on this board.

 

Is this not true? Just some sort of dirty rotten rumor penned by someone with an ax to grind? 

T

Hey Ted, good decision to pass on that car. There will undoubtedly be others in better shape available.

 

FWIW the fender bulge in older VS, it's true. I have a '95 VS that has a slight defect on the passenger side front fender. If you weren't aware of the defect or looking specifically for that particular flaw, its almost imperceptible. The problem with the body mold process had been fixed many years ago. 

 

 

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Last edited by MusbJim

Troy--somewhere I learned that the mold for the Speedster was taken from a car that had been repaired--I guess because of a wreck and that front area of the passenger side side was not straight.  If you sight down the side of a VS you can see that up front, the side is not exactly straight but turns very slightly outward.  Someone not familiar with autobody work would never notice it. Over the years bodies continued to be made made from that same mold without ever fixing the mold to correct that issue.

 

My VS  won two best of shows with that turned-out fender so it is so subtle that the judges never noticed it.

 

An interesting part of Speedster lore I guess.  

Yeah, I think that car had enough Patina for 3 more cars. If I'd have had a flatbed with me I think I may have talked myself into paying too much for it. It would have been an excellent project for somebody without two kids and a full time job.  Would it be rude of me to call the seller and ask him what he got for it?

 

Oh well, if that's my only 'the one that got away' story I acquire along this journey - I think I'll be okay.

 

FWIW - that was CMC #2105. Who wants to bet that we will see it again someday?


Ted

p.s.

Thanks for the info on the VS cellulite issue. Seems like a non-issue for a simple guy like me.

My OCD mind wouldn't let it go. I called under the premise that I wasn't aware it had sold.  He apologized and said he sold it for $6500.00 cash, not an hour after I had left.  He was telling me 7k was his bottom dollar. So it kind of makes sense... sort of. Maybe that's the real number, maybe it's not.  It's none of my business really.

 

*shrug*

 

We'll see ole #2105 again, I'm sure. Hopefully the buyer joins here and we can help  get 'er back on the road and transformed into a reliable ride for years to come.

 

No sour grapes,
Ted

Last edited by TRP

To follow up Crosby's comment on the right front VS fender bulge:

 

From the front it's almost imperceptible...but from the rear, on your knees, sighting down the line past the door there's a bulge just past the right wheel well as the shape curves toward the headlight. At a standing height looking down it isn't perceptible unless you're as paranoid as I am!

 

 

 

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