CMC Tan side curtains

Someone did a sliding setup a long while ago, but it didn't catch on with the Speedster Replica populace - too complicated to do and still make it removeable.  Perhaps adding a slider to the plexiglass window itself (the tracks could be simple strips of plexiglass glued on) would be a good way to go.

I used 1/8" plexiglass but would go to 1/4" thickness when I replace them - makes them less bend-able.

Lane and some others have installed small, round aircraft-style vents that seem to work and don't get in the viewing way.

I do not have fabric frames on my side windows by choice, but tailored both the windows and the top material to that end.

Bruce from Ohio with the matching red speedy trailer did the sliders

So I understand getting it rainproof is a myth but living in Ohio on any day there is a chance and I'd like to be on the road more. So--looking to seal Speedy up as much as possible.

Is 1/4 Lexan  the way to go??

Hey Bruce--pm me  I'm in Akron area.

Yup.  1/4" thick Lexan or plexiglass is the way to go.  One of those is more scratch-resistant than the other - Can't remember which.....  @Alan Merklin - do you know?

As far as making it rain-proof, it can be done.  Both Jack Crosby and I have pretty tight tops and windows, so PM Jack for a dialog and my stuff is here:

https://www.speedsterowners.com...e-top-in-a-speedster

IM has pretty much solved that issue... roll-up windows .. ahhh....

IaM-Ray posted:

IM has pretty much solved that issue... roll-up windows .. ahhh....

Ditto that ....and power to boot (LOL)

Roll-up windows are nice but it isn't a light weight SPEEDSTER any longer plus it's costly to try to convert a SPEEDSTER to a D Cabriolet. The CMC build manual covers basics of building side curtains out of Plexiglas but many have advanced the process.  The VS ones with the canvas/vinyl trim tend to reduce vision a lot.   Do a Search here and you'll find many links with great suggestions to make better side curtains.  Some have heated and bent the plastic for a more watertight fit.  Others added more fabric overlap to the top.  The snaps are often added with a strap to keep curtains from flying off when you open the doors (believe they were on originals).  FiberSteel advertized the aluminum flamed sliding windows for $1295/pr but don't think many were produced plus I can see how they fit most builds. 

$1295 pr is a lot of money.

IM Speedsters have roll up as well not just the Convertible D model... just saying. 

IaM-Ray posted:

IM Speedsters have roll up as well not just the Convertible D model... just saying. 

I can VOUCH for that as I have them in my IM. I might venture to say that all IM cars now have either roll up or power roll up windows.

Ok people, we're not talking about roll up or power windows...STAY on topic here!

Banzai Pipeline posted:

IaM-Ray posted:

IM Speedsters have roll up as well not just the Convertible D model... just saying. 

I can VOUCH for that as I have them in my IM. I might venture to say that all IM cars now have either roll up or power roll up windows.

Not.

Well, if all you need is a double-track for 1/4” plexiglass windows, then this might work:

https://www.woodworkerexpress....aakR28xoCLvgQAvD_BwE

Of course, you still need something to guide both sliding pieces at the top, but at least you have the bottom track.  

LONG POST ALERT!!!

While we're talking windows, here's something completely different - and something I usually bring up at odd - and often inappropriate - times.

One of our own membership - brother Troy Sloan - makes something he calls CruZin Windows for our cars. They're nicely done plexiglass windows designed to be used with the top down - as more a styling accessory than anything else. Good quality, and fairly priced.

I got them to use with the top up - in colder weather, to keep most of the wind out, but to let enough air in for good ventilation. They work very well that way and let you drive the car when it's pretty danged cold. If you have 'heat' (as we call it), that's only effective with the car buttoned up, with some kind of windows in place. Note that the view out is a whole lot better than with conventional side curtains:

Here's the thing about driving these cars in the rain (or the hail, as sometimes happens). No windows or side curtains will seal really well. In a good, extended downpour, water will come pouring in from places you never expected. For example, most of our cars aren't sealed very well on the bottom, and water thrown up under the car works its way in and will start to collect on the floor, drenching the carpet for days in winter weather. This is not at all a good thing. As the carpeting takes its time drying, rust can start forming on the insides of the floor pans - where you can't see it.

And did I mention ventilation? These cars were designed as open cars. They have nothing that resembles a modern ventilation system. When it rains with conventional side curtains, the windshield and those side curtains instantly fog up and visibility drops to near zero. You drive with one hand on the wheel and the other holding a towel, which must be swiped across the windshield every 30 seconds or so.

Just my opinion, of course (and you'll soon get others), but I'd seriously rethink trying to drive these cars in the rain on anything other than an emergency basis. The best side curtains in Christendom really won't help too much.

The only time this may not apply is if you're headed to some SOC gathering hundreds of miles away in a torrential rainstorm. That you'll think is the best fun you could ever have with your galoshes on.

@Troy Sloan

You can fabricate side curtains so that they are 98% water tight ...I have done it on a few builds , it's time consuming but patience pays off. Replicating Troy's side curtain hardware I use "Margard" Lexan ( it's coated with a scratch resistance surface)  the rubber I use measures about 1.2 in width , has a U channel that gets slipped over the Lexan  the other edge is tapered in thickness so it follows the windshield post contour and along the door surface for a good seal. @Mike McKelvey has done this too.  

And you can add ventilation with those round airplane vents.  Works pretty well, actually.

Great communication. Has anyone placed roll up or preferred electric windows in a CMC. There has to be a donor car in a yard out there with like sized opening with mechanicals that could be mocked up. The channels could be re-sized and glass be cut to size. Anyone have a donor door and skills to potentially craft up a working window? With many CMC's out there it would be a winning situations $$$ on both ends. Yes, plan on ordering a set of cruzin windows from Troy down the line (thanks Troy for the excellent Porsche tan seat belts). Maybe when I finally retire in 2 years I can play with the idea--sure would solve the issue all tgr.

Search this here. It has been tossed around several times. One off would be the only route, as actual windscreen placement is different on each, especially on CMC's.

Good luck

Heritage 2008 posted:

Great communication. Has anyone placed roll up or preferred electric windows in a CMC. There has to be a donor car in a yard out there with like sized opening with mechanicals that could be mocked up. The channels could be re-sized and glass be cut to size. Anyone have a donor door and skills to potentially craft up a working window? With many CMC's out there it would be a winning situations $$$ on both ends. Yes, plan on ordering a set of cruzin windows from Troy down the line (thanks Troy for the excellent Porsche tan seat belts). Maybe when I finally retire in 2 years I can play with the idea--sure would solve the issue all tgr.

I've been "playing with the idea" for a couple of years now and believe me, if it was simple I would have done it a long time ago.

I have a full size prototype in my garage right now, but I'm struggling with this catch 22.

The windows need to tilt inward to clear the windshield frame, but that causes the rear of the plexiglass to touch the top's center bow, which forces it out, causing it to collide with the windshield frame. Catch 22.

This isn't a problem with my CruZin windows, because they slope down at the back and clear the top bow.

The other BIG issue is that they need to fit ALL Speedsters and ALL Speedsters are not the same.  Windshields in different locations, door rail grommets spaced differentially, etc..

I haven't given up on them and I have some other ideas, but to mass produce them I need to be certain they will work for everyone.  I don't want to end up having to refund money to a bunch of unhappy buyers.

 PS.  I have 6 sets of CruZin windows and 9 sets of Porsche crested seatbelts (black) left.  When they are gone, there won't be anymore until the Spring.

Christmas is right around the corner!

Troy your right that the windshield is not at the same location so essentially you would have to make some sort of metal adapter for the edge of the speedster windshield to give you a somewhat straight edge near the edge the door to allow the channel to go up and down... 

Either than or have a way to make the window rock upwards from the back, or near the handle, to close on the windshield area... If there is no straight edge then it would be hard to have the window slightly open.   I think SAS has sometype of a rotating window on their cabriolet.  

For a new build or someone who might move the windshield more inline with the door edge it could be done... no easy task.

The SAS rotating window was on a Speedster as the cabrio didn’t need that solution.  I never heard if the Speedster ever actually went to a customer or not.

Won't be a problem for my hardtop as it has ne center bow...

Update on the FiberSteel sliding side curtains - now on ebay for $1495 a pair.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsc...9X5TYC-F&vxp=mtr

They are always on eBay.  Did the price change or something?

My post last month (10/27) said they were $1295 - which I thought was high.  My link to ebay is to correct that figure to the actual $1495 price.  

If one was to have a vintage air or other cooling or ventilation system to handle fogging you might be able to have solid windows

 For years there has been a discussion of the variations of the windshield location.      My experience tells me this :   The windshield  can be mounted only so far forward i.e up to the windshield piper pivot humps on the cowl ( I install the aluminum base  3/8" to 1/2" rearward of the humps) It can only be mounted rearward so far because you have to be able to get a trimmed large washer, sleeve, bolt and socket over the windshield base post under the dash IMHO the variable is 1/2" or less.