CMC/Street Beast/VS Engine Compartment Shields

As part of my oil cooler installation project, I had to remove the custome engine compartment tins I made to seal the bottom of the compartment. There are two pieces: One which goes at the rear and rests on top of the frame rail across the back, and a second, much larger, horse shoe shaped piece that fits under the frame rail, around the rear and both sides of the engine tins and seals against those and the head tins with weather strip. They both work very well.

If anyone is interested, I can make full-sized paper templates of these pieces and send them to you for whatever the postage costs. they both rely on having all of the original VW engine tinware installed, as well as a seal at the bottom of the firewall (I have a large piece of Home Depot padded shop floor material on the firewall that hangs down low enough to be fastened to the lower tinware).

If you're interested, let me know. I can also post pictures.

Gordon

Hi Gordon, Please post a photo. I would also be interested in getting the templets as I am sure mine does not seal as good as it should. Thanks

Gordon,
I would be interested in getting the templates also.

Thanks,

Karl

Too dark out there now to get a decent picture, so I'll pop one in the morning and post it.

OK, below is the picture of the lower engine bay shield. It is fabricated of HVAC-type sheet metal, but could easily be made from aluminum (although that would drive the cost up).

It has two pieces of black weatherstrip on the "legs" to mate with the head tin pieces on the engine, and it is fastened to the underside of the CMC rear frame member with 10-32 screws with captive star washers (I drilled and tapped the frame for the screws). The rest of the metal simply overlaps the engine tins and fits tight enough that additional seals or gaskets are not needed, although it would be really easy to add some 1/8" rubberized weatherstrip tape along any edges that might need it.

I haven't pulled the upper shield at the back of the engine compartment for this project. It's basically a long rectangle but is shaped to the horizontal curve of the body and fastened to the top side of the rear frame crossmember with 10-32 screws, and I added a foam rubber gasket between the shield and the rear inside of the body to seal out heat and dirt.

I've also added a heat shield under the frame at the immediate rear, since I'm running horizontal dual quiet pack mufflers that generate enough heat back there when stopped to melt my wiring loom cover (which is only rated for 200 degrees F, so Why did I use it? Duh!

If anyone is interested, I can make paper templates of any/all of them for you, just ask.

Gordon

I would love a paper template! Just measurements would probably do as well.

Thanks!

Ben

Gordon, put me down for a template. Thanks

Gordon: Since you got it out I'd like a copy as well. My "horseshoe"
is the opposite of yours but I could use a template to do the front(firewall) section.
Thanx,
BD

PS. I had the loom meltdown as well. I rerouted mine further up and into the engine compartment to get away from the heat.

Bill:

I'm contemplating that kind of move, too - might not be too bad with everything off right now and would solve getting the loom around the new filter mount.......we'll see tomorrow.

Trying to get the oil pressure relief vale out so I can clean out the passages of any possible chips or dust before buttoning everything up. The cap is on really tightly and I can't find a drag link removal tool (giant screw driver bit that fits on a 3/8" ratchet) so I may have to find a Snap-on truck tomorrow.

Give me a few days on the template, guys - trying to get this puppy back together again this week!

gn

Ok folks, I finally got time to pull the Upper shield out and made a paper template of that one, to go along with the lower shield template I made a few days ago.

I'll be getting out to Staples tomorrow to see what I can get for something to ship them in (a reinforced letter sleeve should be sufficient) and let you know what the cost of shipping will be on Monday, then you can send along your mailing addresses and I'll get them right out - All the while mourning our loss of the Red Sox' Nomar Garciapara to the Cubbies $>)

gn

Gordon: i know what you mean concerning the TIGHT pressure relief screw cover. I used a piece of flat bar stock ground to match the slot
width and depth wise. Then used a large adjustable wrench on the bar just below the screw and it broke loose.

BD

Bill:

I almost went that route til I spotted a Snap-On tool truck and flagged him down. He had a 3/4" drag link socket (looks like a big, flat-blade screw driver bit that fits a 1/2" drive) that was Dremeled to fit the slot and that worked perfectly.

BTW: I don't have a template for the piece of rubber floor mat I attached to the engine side of my firewall - it's glued in with contact cement. Best thing to do (since you'll need to get the engine out to install something there) is to get some craft paper at an office supply store and make a paper template to use to cut out the rubber stuff. You could, I suppose, do the template thing with the engine stil in there - poke around a bit back there and you'll see.

I got some mailing sleeves and will be loading one with templates today and hit the Post Office tomorrow to see what it'll generally cost to mail them out, and then send out another post with the cost - by that time I'll know how to use my new Pay PAl account so you folks can send me postage money - looks like it'll be around $5 USD, but I'll know tomorrow.

gn

OK, Folks.......

I have both the top-rear, and Bottom-front engine compartment shields drawn out on craft paper and have already made several copies of them.

If you wish to receive a copy, then please contact me at my regular e-mail address, provide me with a land-mail address to send them to (they fit into an 8 1/2" X 11" mailing envelope) send me a check for $5 USD to cover the mailer and postage, and I'll promptly get them out to you.

Sorry that I have to go the written check route in this age of electronic transfers, but I get spooked about all that Paypal information requirements stuff.

Anyway, they look pretty good, and come with a page of instructions explaining how they're made and installed.

Gordon
"One of the Speedstah Guys from Rhode Island"

Hi Gordon,

I know this is an old Post, but do you still have the template? I have wrestled with this in the past, a template would work perfect.

Thanks
Todd

Hi Gordon, Me too. I just got a CMC kit and will need a template if you're still willing to send it. Thanks, Mike Hansen

Hi Gordon,

Me three if you are still around and have the template.

Regards,
Chuck

Give me a day or two, guys.....I saw them when I was packing to leave South Carolina, three days ago, but I honestly can't remember, after two days on the road and traveling with two Jack Russell Terriers, if I tossed them into the trip bin or not. I'll be unpacking tomorrow (Friday) and will let you know if I find them.

If I find them, all I ask is $5 to cover postage....

Gordon

--BEGIN HIJACK--

Sorry you went back so soon, Gord. Still got some snow, huh? S'posed to be 80 here this weekend. Yeppers, I'll just HAVE to get the Speedy out.

I'm a baaaaaaad man.

--END HIJACK--

Todd, Mike and Chuck(and anybody else interested, too!):

Lo and Behold, I found my paper template masters for CMC/Fiberfab engine heat shields. They're a bit wrinkled, but I can flatten them out and make more from them easily.

If you are still interested, please contact me at gnichols0414 at charter.net and I'll make a set up for you.

There are two of them: One for above the horizontal frame member (inside and to the rear of the engine compartment) which also has end "wings" to seal off the ends, and another for below the frame member. That one is horse-shoe shaped across the back, meets the rear engine tin around the rear, goes forward, sealing the sides and connects to the firewall rubber shield (What? You don't have one? The instructions tell you how to fab one of those, too). I fastened both to the horizontal frame member with 10-32 screws (I have a lot of those kicking around and just drilled and tapped the frame) but you could use whatever you have. Just don't use rivets because you'll want to remove them to pull the engine.

They come complete with instructions.

Cost is $5 for an envelope and postage (ya can't beat that!)

Gordon

(self Hijack) Hey, Lane!! 80+ Degrees down there, huh? Bet you LOVE paying your electric bill with all that A/C stuff running so much longer throughout the year, huh?? $>(

But wait! Duke Power just got slammed by the Supreme Court and will have to clean up their pollutin' act, so all Y'all will be payin' for THAT, too! 8>) (Wait a minute! I'm one of all Y'all, too!)

I will trade you a center crest of templates?