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Compression ratio in my near new 1915 VS

E ESFinWilton
I got the car as a turn key used "cherry" 2005 with only 1200 miles on it. The previous (non VW guy) owner had it checked out (adjusted) by a well known local shop. When I got it, in cool weather, the thing smelled drunk with fuel at idle & actually left soot on the rear end. The motor sometimes, tries to run on a bit after shut off especially after warm weather stop and go driving. My assumption is that the new motor was set up pretty rich as a precaution. Now as I near 3k miles, I'm working on dialing it in. Ofcourse, I added a compufire kit to my 009. I've slowly been leaning out the Kadron idle mixtures with pretty good results. My real question is: what is the compression ratio on my so called "mexi-junk-crate" motor?
BTW, this ain't my 1st rodeo: I have personally destroyed at least 3 VW motors over the past 43 years. Heck, I just bought my 3rd copy of Mr Muir's great book!
My understanding is that Kirk uses stock compression & cam with the addition of larger jugs & slugs. Having gone down the high performance road more times than I care to remember, I would really like to make this mild motor live to a ripe old age (just like me).
Any help would be great!

1957 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)

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E ESFinWilton
I got the car as a turn key used "cherry" 2005 with only 1200 miles on it. The previous (non VW guy) owner had it checked out (adjusted) by a well known local shop. When I got it, in cool weather, the thing smelled drunk with fuel at idle & actually left soot on the rear end. The motor sometimes, tries to run on a bit after shut off especially after warm weather stop and go driving. My assumption is that the new motor was set up pretty rich as a precaution. Now as I near 3k miles, I'm working on dialing it in. Ofcourse, I added a compufire kit to my 009. I've slowly been leaning out the Kadron idle mixtures with pretty good results. My real question is: what is the compression ratio on my so called "mexi-junk-crate" motor?
BTW, this ain't my 1st rodeo: I have personally destroyed at least 3 VW motors over the past 43 years. Heck, I just bought my 3rd copy of Mr Muir's great book!
My understanding is that Kirk uses stock compression & cam with the addition of larger jugs & slugs. Having gone down the high performance road more times than I care to remember, I would really like to make this mild motor live to a ripe old age (just like me).
Any help would be great!
FM Former Member
Hi Earnie, I can't help you with the comp. question but I do know that the "screw" you're
adjusting just alters your a/f ratio at idle. Is you car rich while running? Popping from
your exhaust while down shifting? You could have the wrong jetting. It's also been pointed
out before that those carbs have a weak fuel float needle/seat issue and will leak past
if your fuel psi is too high. Step one is to check the float levels.-good luck
FM Former Member
Ernie; I did the numbers since I have one in my car too and it came to around 8.4 to 8.5 to 1 assuming stock deck height. From what I've read lately that's not too bad in terms of reliability although I thought it was from reading the earlier Gene Berg literature. The "dieseling" you are experiencing in warm weather can be due to a couple of things; namely too advanced timing or low octane gas (you should use premium 93 RON if available) amongst others. The Kadrons do tend to run rich and the ironic thing is that the ones installed by Kirk are totally stock and jetted for a stock 1600 cc engine. They do work better at 1.5 psi; you can get a fuel pressure regulator and install it on the firewall between the pump and the fuel line "T".

In my case I'll be doing some improvements to optimize the power. I'll be swapping the Kadrons for dual Dellorto 40's, I'll be installing ported 40 by 35.5 CB 044 heads along with 1-1/2" heater boxes and Tri-Mil exhaust, Gene Berg Achiever pulley, Gene Berg swivel feet adjusters and rigid rocker shafts and VW 1.25 ratio rocker arms. Hopefully those changes will optimize what I have for street use.
E ESFinWilton
PROBLEM SOLVED!
I went to work on rear end of the engine compartment. About 5 hours labor, a little cardboard for pattern development, some 24 gauge sheet metal, about 4' of 1" weather strip tape and 6 screws was all it took.
The guy who assembled the car (I got it with 1200 miles on it) did "pretty much" nothing to seal off air leaks from below. I can't blame him too much because the VS assembly instructions (for this area) are pretty vague.
Anyway, I put my work to the test by running up & down Highway 99 at 70 /75 MPH. The needle never left the cool side of the stock gauge and at shut off time, the motor didn't give me a peep!
E ESFinWilton
EVEN BETTER RESULTS TODAY!
I checked the carbs & intake manifolds for a good seal, then measured the vaccum values for carb synchronization and it was all good. Next, I kicked the total advance up to 31 degrees and WOW! More power and the thing ran even cooler!!!!! I'm, at last, feeling pretty good about the life span potential of my so called "mexi-crate-junk" VS motor.
FM Former Member
Good deal! Glad it worked out. One question Ernie; you did mention at first that the car was a turnkey and then later on said that the guy who built the car as a kit didn't do his assignment with respect to the engine compartment. Also you said the engine is from VS. I'm confused; was the car built by VS or bought as a kit and built by someone else?
E ESFinWilton
As per an old boot-leg copy of Gene Berg Kadron instructions, I added 3 more degrees advance bringing me up to 34 total... I tooled around on country roads at 60 mph for at least a half hour on a 95 degree day.... The car had even more power, stayed cool and shut off perfectly!
And, while I haven't fueled up lately, my trip odomoter strongly suggests that I'm getting better gas milage.
E ESFinWilton
Hi Jim
Yes it is fun to tinker, especially when you're having SUCCESS! I just fueled up and BINGO! My milage is now 24 mpg as opposed to 21 just a couple of weeks ago. Since my last fill-up time frame included most of the above mentioned adjustments, I expect more milage improvements for my next fill-up...... WOOHOO, I'm even saving $$$$$ while having fun!
Gene Berg indicates that 28 mpg is common for a well tuned bug 1600 with Kadrons. We'll just have to wait & see what I can squeeze out of a 1915 with 3:88's in a lighter car.
FM Former Member
Maybe if you tune up your car right and keep it cool, the flames can come out of the car in an orderly way -- with you and the missus on the same sheet of music.
Or, if you leave your car to its own devices and it bursts into flame, you'll have to order a new one while cooling your forehead and listening to the missus -- as she issues forth with a tune you won't like!
FM Former Member
be careful or you'll ventilate a piston!

You should not exceed 32 degrees full advance under WOT (that means centrifugal). Vac advance is a different story, you can go up to 50 BTDC under light loads without an issue. This is why vac advance is superior to the 009 POS that most guys used to run. The engine will run cooler and gain 3-5mpg with vac advance.

DO NOT TRY TO GAIN THE EXTRA ADVANCE BY JUST BUMPING UP THE TIMING ON YOUR 009, it's just a matter of time when you'll regret it.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.
E ESFinWilton
Thanks for the input John. That 34# did seem a little high to me and to George Brown in "knowledge", I might add.
I pulled out the (copyrighted) "Gene Berg Kadron Instructions" sheet for review and sure enough, he indicates that total advance should be set at 31 to 34 when running a "Gene Berg 622 Bosch 009 distributor".
As I may have mentioned earliar, I aim to make this mild motor last: this lil' car goes plenty fast for me.
Thanks again for the wake up call and rest assured that I will be retarding the thing, PDQ.
And how can I learn more about the advantages of vaccum advance ignition?.... The last time I ran "VA" was on a 36 hp '60 convert when I was in college in the early '70's.
FM Former Member
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=igd0001

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=igd0003

I'd run 28-30 total, more then this and the engine will get "lazy" over 4k RPM, especially at WOT.

The fact that the engine runs cooler and "better" at 34 vs 28 shows exactly why vac advance is requires for any car that drives between idle and WOT. The problem is you do not want that much advance at WOT, it risks detonation and breakage. That's why vac advance (which turns off over 1/2 throttle)is needed on street cars. But it's amazing how many folks think a 009 is the shiznitz LOL. They are great for a spare (under the back seat to get you home), but have no place as the primary distributor IMO.

At $3/gal, figure out how long it takes to "pay off" an increase of 4mpg over the 009. It's not much.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.
FM Former Member
And can that be in either carb? From what I've read the carb that has the three ports seems to be the one to hook it up to. In my carbs there's two ports lower on the carb bodies (by the mixture control screws) but I've read those are to be used for other applications and not VW's so I put some plugs over them. The only one left is at the top right by one of the screws over one of the mixture control screws. Am I supposed to have vacuum ports in both carburetors or can I just run the SVDA with the only one I have?
E ESFinWilton
Summer update.......
First off, let me explain that the typical Summer day in the Sacramento Valley is about 95 degrees. After installing the Gene Berg temp-warning light dipstick and immediatly seeing the "glow", I knew it was time for action.
I reported to Bugformance of Sacramento and shelled out 200 bucks, then went to work. I installed a CB Performance Maxi 3 oil pump with in & out hose fittings to which I hooked up an Empi 72 plate oil cooler. The project took me about 8 hours, but this time, the fix is REAL.
After charging around country roads for an hour in 100 degree weather, the needle in the stock VW temp gage never left "the rectangle". Upon checking the GB dipstick, I found the contact ring not passing the 6 0 clock position.
At last I can feel comfortable about Summer driving!
PS... It seems to me that VS would have fewer 1915 engine failure reports if this cooling issue was properly addressed. Of course, not everyone drives in the extreme heat of interior California.
DUBSTUBDUBSTUB
Ernie
I picked up my VS a week ago Friday. The fuel pump broke on the way home. Bought some piece of junk pump to get me home. Today I installed a new pump that Kirk sent me and tooled around Palm Springs for about an hour and a half. It's a long story, but had to reset my timing. Couldn't find my old light so had to buy a new one. Anyway, Kirk told me to set the timing at 8 deg BTC. It stumbles on take off and runs hot, but otherwise OK. Well, it was 105 today, but that heat thing does bother me. I hear you guys talking about 28 - 30. Guess I'll play with that. And, I do like your idea of an oil cooler, especially for this hot desert. I must be nuts to live here. I also must be nuts, but I think I want more power. I will wait until I get this engine running right though. Someone mentioned different carbs. Guess I'll do some homework on that. The car is a kick, just love to drive the little guy. Takes me back when I was a kid racing around in VWs, Austin Healys and Sprites. For you young guys, that was some 45 years ago. Guess I just never grew up. Oh well.
FM Former Member
Warren; about timing, the number Kirk gave you was static timing. When the guys here talk about 28 and up they are talking about the timing at 3,000 rpms and up which should be approximately the same.

About the stumbling and temperature it's all related to final fine tuning, probably carb adjustment and even timing. Also, as a suggestion, try to use the higher octane gas you can find; that will help with the temperature issue.
E ESFinWilton
Thanks for the response Warren.... And Tom! Us guys with "Mexi-junk-crate" motors have to stick together! (ha)
Anyway, my little 8 hour oil cooler project was spread out over 2 days
which included a couple of phone calls to my friends at Bugformance for advice and plenty of time to refer to my copy of "How to keep your Volkswagen alive". I also needed to buy an "oil pump puller" to get the original out of the cases. The puller is a pretty simple lil' tool that only cost me 8 bucks. The new pump fit right into place and believe it or not, I have NO oil leaks!
Here is the link to the CB Performance oil pump:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=197
Here's the oil pump puller: http://www.lowbugget.com/Oil_Pump_Puller_Tool.html
I'll try to post some pictures pretty soon.
PS... I too could not find my old timing light, so I went out & bought a new one. Of course, the old one was discovered about a week later!
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