Concerned about fuel line size difference

I finally took delivery of my Vintage Speedsters kit a couple of weeks ago. Now that I have the kit, I have some questions I haven't found the answers to here, yet.

The first one is what size is the fuel line in a 1967 pan? It's significantly smaller than the fuel line for the dual 44 Webers on my motor. It's a 2187cc I built up from a Scat Zero Mile long block. I'm going to use an electric fuel pump and am concerned that the fuel pressure will drop signficantly from the smaller line to the larger fuel lines feeding the carbs. Should I be? Would it be a good idea to run new line outside the tunnel?

The second question is what size is the steering wheel nut on a 1967 steering column (the nut that holds on the steering wheel)? Mine's missing. I could call Kirk and he would probably send me one, but I kind of enjoy trying to hunt down parts locally (Dallas, TX area).

I've been reading, listening and learning from everyone here for quite a while. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Now that I've got my tub, I'm sure I'll be joinng in the conversation more often.

Good question on the fuel line, and I had the very same question when I was building up my 2110 - especially after I saw Robert Duval's character in "Days of Thunder" talking to the car he built about installing a larger fuel line so it would have a longer reserve when the tank ran out (What? 5 more seconds on a NASCAR racer?? !!).

I believe that the original VW fuel line was 1/4" OD, which would put the ID at something less than that - one way or the other, it was properly sized for the lesser requirements of a single (and smaller, too) carb, like a 28 - 32 Solex, but is a bit lacking for a couple of dual 40's or higher, IMHO.

I pulled my line out when building the car, and replaced it with a 3/8" ID line, assuming that would be plenty big enough to handle the need of a pair of 40's. I also installed a larger, rotary fuel pump just outside of the tank on the passenger bulkhead. It's a little noisier than one inside the tank as modern cars have, but it can't be heard once you start the engine anyway!

Can't help with the steering wheel nut, but it should be a standard Metric - look in your local Yellow Pages for "Bolt and Nuts" and make a few calls. Might not be cool to drive it 'til you get a new one on there, as it's tough steering that thing with the wheel separate from the column!!

Rod,

I may have a steering column nut for you. I'll look around this weekend.

Jerome

Shouln't be a fuel delivery problem, just make sure furl pressure is around 3.5 psi.

Thanks for the input. I'm a ways away from the motor running (could be several months if I keep thinking of new things I want to do), but I think I'll try it with the stock fuel line first. If there isn't enough pressure I'll run a new 3/8 line. I'm planning to use a rotary pump, too.

Jerome, if you have a extra steering wheel nut let me know. I'm going to scrounge around this weekend to and see if I can come up with one.

The stock VW fuel line with 3.5 lbs pressure, can move a decent volumn of fuel per minute.

Imagine how fast you would empty a tank of gas if you pulled off a fuel line hose and let it drain.

If you at point where you have access to the inside of the chassis tunnel then I would install a new line anyway, and then opt with the larger ID line line... you never know what you might do engine wise in the future.

Alan M

If you are going to replace the fuel line, put two in then you will be ready if you ever decide to go to fuel injection.

Since I got a rolling kit, I'm past the point of replacing the line in the pan, so I would have to do it outside. I'm still thinking about that. I haven't given much thought to fuel injection. That's way beyond my skill level and knowledge at this point.

Alan:

I can't remember - how is the existing fuel line fastened inside of the tunnel? I seem to remember popping a spot weld or something to get it to release and come out.

Once that is done, you can use the existing line almost like a "snake" by attaching the new line to it and pulling them through.

gn

Fuel line runs from the front top of the chassis tunnel then passes through a retaining clamp that's fixed to the tunnel floor area, runs to the back of the chassis through another two fasteners, then bends out the top of the left frame horn.
I haven't been able to pull a steel fuel line through without first cutting open the chassis tunnel in a couple of places on the passenger side. Then working in a new steel line a little at a time, straighten the line in the tunnel as it is fed in , shove it again and so on. Add a 2" piece of rubber fuel line by cutting a slit length wise and place it over the steel line as a cushion where it's secured in the tunnel.

This is also the time to replace the nylon shift rod bushing, checkthat all spot welds that hold the brake, accelerator and clutch tubes are secure.
Often I have seen a shift rod has not been shortened correctly i.e. the factory "bend" is the section that is removed , then the shift rod can rattle or bang against the emergency brake tubes. Easy fix for this problem is to remove the E'brake boot and gently tap on the shift rod with a long dulll punch just enough to create a slight radius that will clear the E'brake tubes....Do this too hard it will damage the shift rod bushing, shift rod hanger, transmission selector rod or "hockey stick" within the transmission nose cone.

I didn't like attaching 2 different size fuel lines to one size fuel "T". The 2 lines going to the webers were bigger than the fuel "T" was designed for. About 4 years ago Art Thraen at Air Cooled Engineering in Utah sent me a fuel "T" that he fabricates out of brass, with the proper tube sizes in the proper places on the "T". Problem solved. Art knows his shit!

Rod, I forgot to look I'll look tonight.

Jerome

rod, take note of alan's points. if you are driving around normally
your float bowls are full almost. even if you where to go full
throttle for XXX seconds you're still burning what is in the bowls,
the fuel pump just refills the bowls, kind of like your toilet.

Bruce ....Wyckoff, NJ ?
You're in the holiday hell of Malls with traffic beyond belief ...
Rt 17 and Rt4 !
I use to run big truck to the local lumber companies out there. Allendale, DeMartini, Ramsey, Midland Pk. etc.

very close. but to tell you the truth i don't drive in traffic.
i leave for work before the chickens get up and am home well
before afternoon rush hour. as for the malls=hate em, i go twice
three times a year. luckily in bergen county the people continue
to vote in the blue laws (no shopping on sunday), no traffic at all.
the parkway is another story. but yes you have to put up with a bit
discomfort to gain the benefits of living here; taxes, insurance,
tolls all off the charts (why is it i live here again?)

Bruce, I hadn't thought about it that way. I'm a visual person, so thinking about the float bowls makes it much more clear for me. I'm taking what Alan said very seriously. Since I got a rolling chassis from Vintage, all of the mechanicals have been reworked, so I don't want to change it if it's not necessary. Based on the advice everyone has given, I'm going to stick with the factory line and merge it to a larger line going into a "Y" fuel block and then to the carbs. I just have to get the right bits to tie it all together. Something else to think about, which is why I got a kit. Solving the challenges is the fun part.

Rod
I think you are going the right route in using a larger ID fuel line from the "Y" to your carbs . The carbs will never run the line dry so to speak (it's not a 335 HP " Chebby " engine :)
An additional though is to also install a larger capacity fuel filter that can double as a fuel reserve ...well kinda, sorta....
Alan M

Rod,

I found it! Email me an address and I will send it out ASAP.

BTW: Your email didn't work for me.

Jerome