Convertible Top

CMC here -

@Richard Gregor

I see that you're not a donating member.  Just FYI, all of the various assembly manuals for CMC/Fiberfab cars are up in the Resources/Knowledge section (see the black menu bar at the top of this window).  All that stuff and more is available to "donating members" (there's a LOT of info up there).

But, you're a newbie to the site, so I scanned the pertinent two pages from my own CMC manual (from 1990, bu they're all the same for top installation) and have attached them to this post.  They're both PDFs so you can print them and use them in the shop.  It also designates between the longer (front) bow and the shorter (rear) bow.  You should also have the tightening latch (they call it a "support bracket") in order to tighten the top material once it's up.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.

Gordon

Thank you guys! The pictures explain what I don't have and didn't know I need! Where do I get the bracket that holds the 2 bows? I don't have that? Thanks, RichG

My car isn't handy but maybe someone can measure theirs and you can make them out of some angle iron.

Steel Top Frame Hardware Only - Vintage Motorcars of California Inc. (vintagemotorcarsinc.com)

You could make them from angle iron pretty easily, or you could just buy them from Greg Leach at Vintage Motorcars:

https://www.vintagemotorcarsin...frame-hardware-only/

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Here's a tighter view of how the bows mount to the top tensioner bracket (driver's side):

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Wow!
Polished top bows!
    I’m impressed!

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Nothing but the highest level of finish on a VS, Gordon.

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@Gordon Nichols posted:

Wow!
Polished top bows!
    I’m impressed!

I was embarrassed to publish photo of my rusty CMC top bows.  Stainless steel is so nice!

I used heat shrink tubing on my top bows to prevent rust and look nice.  

Of course, they could be rusting like crazy under the tube for all I know, but they do look nice.

I grabbed a whole bunch of tubing when we were cleaning the prototype shop at work after a couple of really fast projects to end a product line and they were trashing a whole lot of other stuff.  It was much later when I found out how much that shrink tube co$t$.

Hello again! After receiving my top hardware to hold the bows from Vintage, I have another question. How does the bracket stay firmly attached when the body of the car is angled where the bolt goes through the bow and bracket? Do I need an angled washer to help keep the bracket stable/squared up? I need to push/torque those bows pretty good to get them in place. Or, should I tweak the bows so there is less outward stress when installing? Thanks! RichG

A lot of the metal bow flippers don't stay up, a few fixes are" use Nyloc nuts to keep tension on the flipper to bow bolt, redrill the holes for the rear bow, this will change to tension geometry a bit and in a pinch a small key ring slid over the bow/ flipper keeps it in place too.

Thank you Alan! Currently - but its early yet, I'm making my own convertible top. The old top is worn but the current bows hold in position. Not sure if they will move as the car is driven but.... That is a great idea about holding the rear bow in place to the flipper with a ring. Thanks!

@Richard Gregor posted:

Hello again! After receiving my top hardware to hold the bows from Vintage, I have another question. How does the bracket stay firmly attached when the body of the car is angled where the bolt goes through the bow and bracket? Do I need an angled washer to help keep the bracket stable/squared up? I need to push/torque those bows pretty good to get them in place. Or, should I tweak the bows so there is less outward stress when installing? Thanks! RichG

@Sacto Mitch posted:

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Here's a tighter view of how the bows mount to the top tensioner bracket (driver's side):

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@Richard Gregor In Mitch's post you can see that there is a cup shaped washer that goes between the body and the tensioner to keep everything off of the curved interior body panel. The front of the tensioner is almost touching the carpet but the rear of the tensioner is about a 1/2" off of the carpet so it's all in a straight line.

I would hope that the stand-off washer mentioned by Bob was included in the stuff you got from Greg at VS but, if not, it is essentially a VW valve spring retainer:

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1402.htm

I may have a couple of them kicking around, but I'm not going out to my -8ºF garage until tomorrow sometime.  I'll look for them and post on here whether I find them.  If I do, I'll mail them to you, no charge.  (Sooner or later I'm going to get my shop cleaned of excess stuff!)

----Edit----

@Richard Gregor

I couldn't stand the suspense!

I found a couple of those washers in my stash of convertible top stuff.

You might be able to find some VW valve spring washers locally where you are, instead - Any decent VW aircooled shop should have some kicking around.

If you want these, just PM me with your mailing address and I'll get them out tomorrow when I take the dog sled out on some errands.

Gordon

Thanks for the offer! I tightened up the bows to the bracket - better/tighter. However, the bracket still hits the curved part of the back seat area. I did get 2 spacers and used them. I may take you up on the offer but for now i'm thinking an angled washer maybe be better. I'll stare it some more tomorrow! It seems an angled washer/"tube like" the windshield - under dash spacer would be ideal, just not as big/long. Thanks, RichG