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I read and looked at every picture of Gordon's famous 2004 top install.  None of the pics

show the metal supports, which hold up the top material.  I am most interested in seeing

anyone's photo of where the two metal top supports pivot, as they bolt into the special threaded

piece in the body.  My assembly manual has almost nothing of value about how those two metal pieces install .  One is longer than the other or put another way, it sticks up higher than the other one.

 

I am guessing, from some common sense, the taller support tubing or longer one goes towards the

top's window and the shorter or less tall tubing goes about straight up, to hold the convertible material.  The assembly manual shows some small metal piece which looks like it extends the end of the longer or taller tube towards the rear of the body, about two to three inches from the other tube, but I do not have that metal part in what was sent to me.  It is needed or can one use just the same 5/16 bolt through both of the metal tubes and all will line up ? 

 

Need just one picture of that pivot area, showing the metal tubes and how they attach to the body pivot threaded area.  Please confirm the longer or taller tube goes towards the top's window.  Thanks for any pictures you might have.  I have plenty of the completed top and how it fits on the windshield and on the rear of the body, but those tubes ??   Nobody takes a picture of them, before the canvas is installed ?  Or have you done this ? 

 

MY fiberglass piece, which fits on the upper windshield support needed to be cut  and modified to fit without binding on the metal frame for the windshield.  I also cut out slots to clear the raised area on the metal frame, slots in the fiberglass bow, at those places where the latches engage ; stick out and the fiberglass would not clear them.  I only see two places on my frame for the latching down of the top.  Most show three latches ?   I guess my speedster parts are really old and perhaps the improved way is using three latches on the front of the top ?  You tell me.

 

----George K. ---

Keeping old VW's running like new .   Past National drag racing record holder.

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Nice parts you have on your speedster. Look like power coated and chrome. Wow ! I am going to "paint" my top parts. Yep, that picture looks like the diagram in the assembly manual, but with it shown mounted in an actual vehicle, that means more to me. I can cut out some angle iron to make those extension pieces, which connect the two tubes.

I don't understand the need for the "stop" on the metal piece. Seems like that does nothing. Oh, think that pops up and holds the top tighter . I think that is what you meant when you said the 'latch" locks the top in place.

My assembly drawing showed three windshield latches and there were three included in my collection of parts, but the frame only has a place for two of them. Somewhat confusing.

Know any place which has a low cost on the convertible top with plastic window ? I called Topline and they want about $500, but only comes in Black. I want brown or tan convertible top material.

I missed the time frame to call Beck and see what they offer. Also, I need to replace the "new" bow as it binds on the aluminum windshield frame and must have been molded wrong. I don't want anything binding on the glass to prevent breakage. That frame is not bent, as it fits the glass good and I know the glass does not bend, so frame has to be correct. The fiberglass bow has to be made wrong. I never force any parts together. They either fit properly or I toss them away and buy another part, made correctly.

Thanks for the photo. I am jealous of how nice your top must look. ---George K. ---
I need to look closer at the three "latches". What you said means one has to be made differently, but I think all three of mine are the same design. On the convertible old Beetles and Karman Ghia convertibles, VW only used two latches. I am not sure one needs that middle one. I never drive fast with a convertible top UP.

Surprising how little wind blows into the interior of my speedster. I sit low in the 914 seats and am a short person, so maybe, the height of the seats and my short body keeps me below the wind.

---George K. ---
Okay, thanks for the pictures. Now, I know which length tube goes where. I can made the missing "latch" or extension angle iron piece, missing from my collection of parts. Looks like about three inches between the two tubes, where they bolt on the body.

I really don't plan to drive in the rain and if cold outside, I have been in unheated VW Bugs for too many years, so where I live, it rarely goes below 50 degrees in the winter. Very mild climate along the Texas Gulf Coast. So, I wear more clothes and a hat and that takes care of leaving the top down, as long as it does not rain. For parking purposes I want the top UP and will never leave anything of value in the car's interior. I have seen too many drug addicts cut a convertible top to get a $5 item off the seat. No radio going in my speedster. It's the number one thing thieves look for and want to steal. As the trunk locks, that should be the best place to store some small items.

On the dune buggies, many have a storage area, under the rear seat. I have not looked but if there is enough open space under the body, where the rear seat is located, I can fabricate a fiberglass box to hold some items, then it is covered with the seat cushion and nobody can see it. What they cannot see, they don't know about, so that might be a good place to store anything of value. Also, consider cutting and installing a storage area where your back would go, on the back seat body section. I know there is plenty of room between the two body fiberglass sections and one could place a storage box in that area, leave part of the carpet not glued and just lift it up and open up a fiberglass door, then slide your stuff into the hidden storage area. Under the rear seat cushion would be better and could be as big as one foot X one foot, I think. I don't like the glove box idea as the bad guys can see that , then cut the roof and pry open any fiberglass or metal glove box cover with a screwdriver. Again, if we don't put in things they want to steal, they will go to another car in the parking lot.

I have locks on the wheels, locking steering column and use the "Club" on the steering wheel, as steering wheels are too easy to remove from the car. You guys with the $300 fake Nadine Porsche wheel are asking for someone to steal it. Real Porsche steering wheels are too expensive and someone would , for sure, steal one. I would guess, one in mint condition is worth close to $1000.

---George K. ---

Vintage has vinyl $250.00ish

Latch may have been the wrong word to use as it can be confused with the latches that hold the top to the windshield.

 

The third center latch is an aftermarket thing added off center and hooks around the top of the mirror rod.

 

"Top bow lever" or "Top to body linkage" we'll call it, and the tabs are needed to for it to function properly. With your skills they'll be done in 20 minutes I bet.

If correct, Vintage price might be 1/2 of what I was quoted. I need another fiberglass bow for the windshield frame as mine binds and I do not want anything binding or too tight on the windshield glass frame. I have to look at my three latches to see if one is different.

I have never done a convertible top . I will have the two metal tubes power coated. I guess they slide into pre-sewed sections on the convertible top, to keep them in place, when it is up. Doing the snaps on the rear of the body and the glue job on the material on the bow will be my challenge.

As my entire windshield sits back 1.5 inches, due to the weird wrong drilled holes for the corner post, that should help me with plenty of extra material ,being glued on the fiberglass bow.

You guys used Plexiglas on the side windows ? I am going with Lexan. More expensive, but it does not scratch up , like Plexiglas and also, you can drill it with less chance of cracks. I have used Lexan on many of my race cars in the past and was easier to cut and drill. I will make up my own custom fit side windows and have the mounting hardware. Also, going with wind deflectors mounted to the sides of the windshield.

I see, in pictures, there is a bigger and larger clamp thingy, which holds the center rod mirror. Mine looks too small and only has one bolt and nut, not two. The larger mirror mount looks like the better way to secure the mirror. As my center support rod is only 1/4 inch, I had to modify the one bolt bracket which holds the mirror and did not like that arrangement. I am going to have my machine shop friends made up a better two bolt bracket for the rear view mirror mounting.

The assembly work never seems to end. Someone wants me to put together their complete old CMC speedster . I wonder how much , for labor, I should charge them. If I go with $50/ hour for experienced and skilled work, that comes out to a lot of money, for labor. Figure 150 hours X $50 and that would be $7500. Actually, I was thinking $10,000 for labor. I wonder what Beck gets for their labor charge to build a complete replica ? ---George K. ---

I bought a tan Haartz cloth (canvas) top and header bow (clamps to windshield) from VS. The VS header bow is made of what looks like butylene plastic.  My CMC one was layered fiberglass which over the years was delaminating - plus it would have taken hours to grind it to fit the windshield frame correctly.  VS can supply and install the clamps for a bit extra (I got without since I had the clamps).  The top & tonneau came with snaps too.  I also bought their full tonneau in tan Haartz cloth. Haartz top/tonneau were $380 (each) and header bow was $90.

 

You may have to cut your top hoops to get top to fit properly so hold off on powder coating.  I plan to use heat shrink tubing to cover mine - gives a flat black/grey look for $12.

 

If you didn't install the 4 front snaps for the tonneau - you have to remove windshield or try to drill from below dash.

Last edited by WOLFGANG
Same problem here. The fiberglass bow does not fit easy over the windshield frame. This coming week I will check out VS on the tan top. I hope I don't have to cut down the top hoops ( learned a new word) as that would lower the top and it looks from some trial fitting of parts, the top will be rather low. Someone described the top up as looking out of a bunker. Good thing, I am only five ft. , six in., tall. Small cars fit me nicely. ---George K. ---
Same problem here. The fiberglass bow does not fit easy over the windshield frame. This coming week I will check out VS on the tan top. I hope I don't have to cut down the top hoops ( learned a new word) as that would lower the top and it looks from some trial fitting of parts, the top will be rather low. Someone described the top up as looking out of a bunker. Good thing, I am only five ft. , six in., tall. Small cars fit me nicely. ---George K. ---

The VS top that I used (same as Wolfie, a Haartz "Stay-Fast" canvass top) is the low bow version.  I don't believe they offer a High Bow version, but not sure.

 

Once installed right and with 914 seats, the low bow will be about 1-1/2" to 2" above the 5'6" driver's head when up.

 

I also had a third header latch kicking around after the build, and after a few years of running just two latches and having it leak at the center I added the third latch, just to the right of center to be away from the center strut.  No more leaks. I think I used a Dremel and an air powered die grinder to make the flat area in the center for the latch.  

 

The extra lip for the center latch was made in the top frame when the frame was off of the car.  Took two people, each with two pairs of wide-blade electrical pliers, one to hold the frame fast and the other to bend the lip.  Zip-Zap...10 seconds and it was done.  I protected the frame from the plier teeth with a couple layers of electrical tape.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
You know I am not removing my special fitted windshield, so hope it never rains. Or, the car will sit, until the rain moves away.

This keyboard is new and sticky. My laptop is five years old, so we replaced the keyboard and it is doing weird things.

On the third latch, I agree it is needed. But, putting anything around that fragile center post is not happening on my car. I hope the good fit of a new bow with some grinding to clear the material will get me some reasonable results.

I think, in rain, there will be no way I can seal up the car body 100%, so not going to glue the carpet down to the Floor, so I can remove it, when it gets wet. I really don't like carpet in cars as where I live we do get lots of rain and the stuff collects moisture and rots out the flooring. I like rubber mats, which VW used in later years, never carpet on their old Beetles. See, the VW factory realized their water tight Bug , which was supposed to float on water, might leak water or water, when raining out and you step into your car, that gets into the carpet. I will also use rubber mats, on top of the carpet, which will not be glued down. I cut the carpet in two pieces, on the floor and I know, you guys are grinding your teeth on all my "modifications", but again, this is to allow quick removal, in case of water on the carpet. My goal is to make the car last many years.

The floor pans are coated with truck bed liner heavy duty paint, almost like a fiberglass coating. Both under the car and inside the floor pan. Really good coating, which is one of the few things someone did correctly on my poor beat up unfinished speedster , I bought. I added lots of quality paint to the any visible metal frame parts, also to keep it from rusting. Lots of rust proofing paint. I don't think I missed any parts of the metal body frame. --George K.-
Where is Carlisle ? I see it mentioned often, but what State ? I cannot find it without more details.

I never wrote that Wild Bill was not a great person, so why mention that to me ? Maybe, someone should solve the mass murder problem. Now, that would help millions, who are worried about guns.

The bad guys have always had guns and the bad guys will always have guns. There is a lack of respect for others in America and due to parents letting their brats ( sorry, wonderful children) run the household, it will only increase. Attorneys whom have pushed for more law suits to make more money for Attorneys have killed the concept of discipline in the schools or in the home. Now, children can file a legal action against their parents. Someone needs to consider we have too many lousy laws which lead to some nut case killing many and if we do not reverse the stupid legal system, and stop putting money into the hands of attorneys who have offered no solution to our problems, we will only see more killings.

I was curious about his "nickname", nothing else. Are there other
" Carlisle" events elsewhere in America for the speedster owners?

I mentioned there seems to be few with speedsters in Texas, where I live, so my viewpoint is very different from others. Another point is that I really use any car I own and it rarely sits in a garage , under a cover, for only show display. I know others must drive their speedsters, but it seems to be an exception, not the rule. Cars are for transportation. That was why they were built and are built. When, they become ART, they no longer are transportation.

Send the cards and letters to Obama, who happens to be an Attorney. Not to me, just some lower middle class working person. My children have never killed anyone and have respect for all. I was a mean parent and was strict and they hate me, but they also turned out to be good people. Wow, that concept of discipline has gone out the door. Not, child abuse, just discipline.
---George K. ---

Just one final note on things not fitting, dry fitting stuff prior to assembly things to give one a heads up to future problems that go hand in hand. If you have test fitted the bow to the frame prior to installing it and posting that problem herein, I would have explained to you how you could have easily corrected that issue by closing the perimeter of the frame  and still have enough room to install over the glass.

Thanks for the advice. Believe this or not, I used to write longer post. No kidding. These are shorter, but still room for improvement.

I had to reseal a swing axle transmission, which I bought from a rebuilder in CA. Had to pull out the dual carb engine and remove the transmission , take off the brake parts, axle tubes and reseal where they did not use smooth surfaced side covers. I did all that 12 hours of work for free, so that really destroyed my weekend plans. I need to count to ten or do something to vent and not get on the Internet , in work situations like today and yesterday.

Next transmission I buy, I will look closer at the surfaces on the old parts, the rebuilder uses, to prevent this 12 hours of lost time and a messed up weekend. We did have beautiful weather conditions and I was stuck working for no money. I do back up my work, so this one bit me where the sun does not shine.

Less work for this coming week, so will order some new parts for the speedster project and hope to see all the needed convertible parts, at my place, by the end of this coming week.
Silly keyboard, the space bar is sticking down?

I am trying to make up my mind on the side trim, to put it on or leave it off. I see speedsters done both ways. ---George K. ---
I should not watch the TV news. Of course, everyone is upset about the latest killings by some mentally ill person. As a gun owner and licensed with to carry arms, I get tired of what I hear on the news and should not express any of that in these post.

I will try harder, but liked your posted pictures. Is that YOU, doing the auto cross racing ? I used my IM, back in 1992 for many auto cross races and the Real Porsche guys thought I was tearing up a Real Porsche, as it looked super close to the real deal. Talk about negative comments ? I heard them all, until I explained it was a VW under the nice body. Then, they shut up.

If you did some auto cross racing , you know how good these old designed speedsters can be on curves. Just amazes me how the light weight and low center of gravity makes them so much fun to drive. ---George K. ---
The windshield frame fit nicely over the glass with the new rubber seal installed in the frame. The problem, based on input from others seems to be commonly the bow needs some grinding to allow a better fit. But, mine is just made wrong.

I have trial fitted the various parts for the convertible top and someone told me to not paint or power coat the top hoops as they might be some cutting on them for proper fit. I do read and follow the good advice of others. Just a poorly molded fiberglass bow and I did some grinding on it, but that is not solving the problem.

Another interesting point, which others taught me to look out for, was how the latches fit. I have three latches, which today I looked closer at and they all are the same design. The third one, I am told, is to fit somehow on the center support , but no way the latches I have will do that. One suggested they modified the windshield frame to use a third latch, just to the side of where the center rod fits on the windshield frame. That is a good suggestion, but I did not research the convertible top install and I think I read all the post, but some of the latest suggestions to me were not posted or I just missed reading them.

I am using all the good advice from other speedster owners and doing my looking for past post, before each things I tackle on my project. Of course, that helps. Mostly, I have a poorly built speedster body and questionable parts, which came with it.

It is hard to make lemonade from oranges. See my problem ? Mine is like a bad, rotten orange, not a nice , fresh lemon. A friend looked at the misaligned passenger door on my speedster. I thought the hinges were install wrong, but he pointed out the even spacing where the door mounts to the body and it looks almost perfect, so that rules out the hinges being put on wrong, I guess. But, the bottom of the passenger door sticks out too far and I adjusted the striker plate. You see, just bad parts. With lots of adjustment to the striker plate on the body, I do have the door opening and latching good, but don't like the bottom of the door sticking out. Just looks wrong.
---George K. ---
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