Cooling tin

I have a box of tin that I soda blasted and primed ready to finish painting and install .Like greek to me every car I have had in the past had a water pump and a radiator !!! There is a small plate I asume it goes her photo # 1 and 2 Also if someone knows of some good photo's showing where all this tin goes that would be a real help ones again thanks to all Crazy Pete

I use the newer type 3 style that wraps around the cylinder and supposedly direct better cooling. The round cut outs go around part of the inner head stud/bolt before you put the heads on. So ~1/4" closer to block (one fin) than in your photo 2. You might want to safety wire them on too keep them from rattling.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5444

Thanks Ill wire them in place after I paint them

Pete:

You've got it in the right position, but it goes on the bottom of the cylinders, not on the top as you have it shown in photo #2.

It's purpose is to deflect the air being blown down past the cylinders out past the cylinder bottom and towards the rear of the engine.

I've never bothered to wire them in place - other tin pieces keep them in place, and the engine makes enough noise that you'll never hear them rattling, anyway.

Nice job painting them, too.....

gn

I commented on this piece in your other thread about the cooling flaps.

You show it on the top of the cylinders. They should be on the bottom. You can not install them with the push rod tubes in place.

Some people argue very strongly that you should not use the cool tins Wolfgang gave the link to. They were designed for Type 3 engines, not our Type 1. I had them on my engine and took them off and used the pieces you have. I had to replace my push rod tubes to make the change.

Also, there should be little air deflectors wedged into the gap in the middle of the heads. The one on the right has a gap for the thermostat rod.

Thanks guys puting on the bottom makes sense with no muffler ill never hear it ratle

What is the best pushrod tube replacement ?

Oh - I didn't notice the spark plugs were visible! Yeah they go on the bottom of engine above pushrod tubes. No idea on if the T3 ones work better - it was recommendation of local professional experienced VW rebuilder - to both Dale S and I. They sure look to be more efficient. Here's write-up on the Cool Tins as they are called (think he overdid the wiring on a bit!).

http://www.type2.com/rvanness/kooltin.htm

Original style push rod tubes require removing the heads to install.

I used some spring loaded tubes from aircooled.net. These allow keeping the heads on. Some of this type leak. Some supposedly don't. If you use this type be careful which ones you buy.

Pete, Scat or CSP make good spring-loaded tubes that don't leak. Stock deflector tin under the cylinders is fine, just don't forget it, it is very important for even cooling.

Here's a representative view of the "flaps" on the bottom of the fan housing. (It's obviously the image with the housing upside-down sitting on the cardboard) scroll down a bit...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=347197&highlight=thermostat
Add-here is another link to the classified section of TheSamba re: thermo/parts (I personally would try to source new items if available or a COMPLETE used housing with all the associated parts-make sure of year/model run of your engine)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?submit=yes&keywords=thermostat&type=text&stype=all&username=&yearfrom=&yearto=&pricefrom=&priceto=&model[]=

Scott thanks the link to samba was very helpfull so here is my problem all I have is the louvers all the litle stuff is not here so what hapens if you install the louvers in the open position .It would take longer to warm up? But its not like I live in Canada how long does it take for a air cooled vdub to reach operating temps.

here's more information:

http://www.vw-resource.com/coolinglinks.html

In the SAMBA thread it talks about the thermostat leaking fluid? I've nerver seen one with fluid in it - I thought it was just a bi-metalic piece that expands and opens the flappers? Am I wrong or is there really fluid in them? Maybe they are talking about the new Mexican ones and not the original brass bellows looking ones?

Install the flappers you have - you can always add the other pieces when you find them (without removing the cooling shroud).

Pete-if all you have is the flaps and NOTHING else, make sure they are open and will stay open. But consider that to be temporary partial fix in my opinion and not highly advisable by ME.
Good luck, and double check the Samba classified link I sent as most of what you need is available. If using a second-hand old-style bellows thermostat, check it for function. Don't get frustrated and cut too many corners; the "cheap can become expensive" as the old saying goes.

The thermostat bellows is full of oil (I would use silicone oil, but back in that day they probably used some 10wt clear stuff) - that's why they weigh more than they look like they should.

The oil expands when hot, forcing the bellows to expand, too. I believe the bellows is made of a bronze type of metal.

I've seen a couple of newer variations on the bellows design,but I don't believe that they work as well.

gn

This aint so bad after all ,went to the links you all sugested the flaps work the only thing I am missing is the linkage on the back that conects the left side to the right side .Any sugestions on where might get one .I got pushrod tubes and other misc stuff on the way ones again MANY THANKS TOO ALL

Check www.howardvw.com for the linkage.